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BulletProof-TMIC Mod - LGT, 08+ WRX


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^^^ We all know it's near impossible to drive a front mount equipped car on the street. I hear they add 3 or 4 seconds of lag to the turbo and are only useful for top speed runs. :lol:

 

 

:lol::lol:

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I could use that lag.

 

Sort of like the cooling-off period for buying a handgun.

 

Where is that throttle rescaling mod vendor?!?

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
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http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/CDubbs684/2011-02-02085020.jpg

 

The name comes from a former fellow bomb loader who thought irony is funny, calling a computer nerd a name that was rapper-esque.

 

Word to your moms, I came to load bombs. I drop more primer cartidges than the bible's got psalms.

Edited by CDubbs
No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
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I could use that lag.

 

Sort of like the cooling-off period for buying a handgun.

 

Where is that throttle rescaling mod vendor?!?

 

LMAO!!! Funniest thing I've read on this forum in a while!

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Thanks, Ill be here all decade...

 

 

...On account of the recent significant investment in Engine number 3

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
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Any chance of getting some dimensions of BP kit parts? Length of short and long pieces, c-c hole distance, 'bolt' length? I see you've already posted the inside and outside leg heights.

 

I want to start mass marketing this unpatented idea. I mean, I need to make me one of these. I can wing it, by why reinvent the wheel?

 

For you fellow canucks, don't even bother with Home Despot, they don't have the channel. Go to Lowes. I didn't try Rona, but wouldn't hold out much hope there, either.

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Any chance of getting some dimensions of BP kit parts? Length of short and long pieces, c-c hole distance, 'bolt' length? I see you've already posted the inside and outside leg heights.

 

I want to start mass marketing this unpatented idea. I mean, I need to make me one of these. I can wing it, by why reinvent the wheel?

 

For you fellow canucks, don't even bother with Home Despot, they don't have the channel. Go to Lowes. I didn't try Rona, but wouldn't hold out much hope there, either.

 

what are you even talking about?

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This is the BulletProof TMIC mod thread, right? The one where the OP has repeatedly referred to just about everything in shortform at one point or another, like BP for bulletproof or AM for aftermarket? Or has it gotten so far off topic that you didn't know what thread you were in?

 

It doesn't look like he's interested in retailing these things, and even if he is, it's not likely to be cost effective shipping them to Canada. So I'm asking for basic dimensions. I probably won't even follow them exactly, but they would be helpful when purchasing materials (too late for me) and as a starting point.

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So you want to steal his idea, produce a "kit" and then sell them for profit?

 

That's a pretty dick move.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Thanks guys, but I knew from the beginning someone would eventually want to pirate it. However, I can't justify keeping the information private for selfish reasons, and decided to provide the data if requested so that those who want can make their own.

 

Having already investigated the "cost effective shipping to Canada" issue for another member, however, the difference between shipping my kit to anywhere in the US or to Canada (at least the address I used) was ... one US dollar. Not an issue.

 

The plans, as well as kit and other information are available... PM me.

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Wow, don't bother with a smiley and everyone turns vicious. It was a joke. You really think if I was going to pirate the idea I'd type out my intentions for everyone to see (and comment on)?

 

I'm not the first to ask. Besides, I'm a miserable salesman, my work ethic isn't strong enough to get these out fast enough to make happy customers, and I'd have to sell hundreds or thousands of these to make it worthwhile to even consider trying to overcome the first two points. I just want to make one with the least chance of wasted materials and a possible restocking trip back to Lowes.

 

Usually, the extra shipping to Canada is closer to the cost of the kit than a dollar. If you have a price in mind, and want the business, I'll gladly send interest parties your way. Assuming I get past the miserable salesman thing.

 

Thanks, SeeeeeYa for your work and the offer. PM incoming.

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If the stock TMIC is lighter and more efficient than an aftermarket TMIC why not figure out a way to run two of them in series? You would still be lighter than one aftermarket unit and have twice the cooling capacity. :confused:

 

:hide:

 

Oh Emm Gee - brilliant. :lol:

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I finally got around to making one of these. Thank's to SeeeeeYa for sending me his instructions. I didn't follow them exactly, but it was good to have them for reference. Of the things I did differently, some I would do again, others I wouldn't bother.

 

Everything was machined using my table saw. A drill press and a hand file did everything else. It took me about 6 hours from popping the hood to closing it again, but that includes taking pictures, a test fit and rework, and a quick polish. If you like doing this kind of thing, like I do, then it's worth doing. If your tool collection is lacking, or your skills lie elsewhere, then hit up SeeeeeYa for a complete kit at a reasonable price.

 

I noticed that my intercooler was starting to separate before I started. Target boost on my tune is 17psi. I'm really glad this project came up before I went for my re-tune next month.

 

The following changes I think were good ones:

The threaded rod pieces are 3/16" shorter. This is probably because of the next 2 items.

I used medium threadlocker under the acorn nuts instead of lock washers

I didn't use lock washers on the bottom. Seemed redundant with lock nuts there.

I put U-channel on all 4 edges of both seams.

I put heat shrink tube on the captured part of threaded rods.

 

Other changes didn't necessarily work out:

 

1) I made the long pieces 1/4" longer. This didn't really matter on the firewall side, or the front hot side. But both top (Pic #3, red) and bottom (green) had to be modified to fit. The lost that extra 1/8" and the bottom lost more than that, but on an angle (farther back on the right side).

 

2) I'd make the short pieces differently. In Pic #1, you can see I slotted one end for the long pieces to fit into. I would instead cut both legs of the U off and just leave a straight tab to fit inside. Having this part of the short pieces fit all the way into the long pieces provides support when tightening things up. The end result is straighter top pieces (the bottoms bent a bit upon tightening).

But the legs that fit on the outside create a fitment problem with the engine cover that requires trimming. Not much, but if those legs weren't there, then the cover would need less work.

 

The big issue with getting the engine cover back on is clearance for the acorn nuts. Using shallow regular nuts instead might be a better option for us LGT guys, but I can't be sure. If you go this route, definitely use threadlocker and no lock washers on the firewall side to gain as much clearance as possible. The other two don't matter at all.

BP-TMIC-Parts.thumb.jpg.c89e71c90c9e033b4841e7e3e16fc1ad.jpg

BP-TMIC-Done.thumb.jpg.609a2da385071470309b28dd1adae266.jpg

BP-TMIC-Close-up_Modified.thumb.jpg.358965a376cc25e86409e6b74963f052.jpg

BP-TMIC-Installed.thumb.jpg.b7ff434d210737284aa66d2cfc73326e.jpg

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You have some skills there! Excellent.

 

You can see why I picked the path I did. There is wiggle room some places, some not. My priority was securing the IC, and use by the widest variety of user skills. You have those Mad Skillz :). If you think the lock washers I spec are redundant, you should have seen the first one I put on my car :lol:, talk about overkill.

 

Impressive work. The best part is... you now have a BulletProof TMIC, and can tune with confidence.

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I don't know about Mad Skillz, but I do alright. Thanks. It helps to know that carbide tipped tools meant for wood can be used for aluminum in moderation.

 

We'll see how redundant those lock washers are when the engine gets hot. If the nylon inserts melt I'll probably wish I had kept them.

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We'll see how redundant those lock washers are when the engine gets hot. If the nylon inserts melt I'll probably wish I had kept them.

 

I doubt the nylon will melt. The T-bolt clamps I used in an attempt to seal the slip joints on my perrin header had nylock nuts on them; the nylon inserts were still intact over a month later.

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Nylocks are usually good to around 250* so I doubt they will be an issue on this application. If you're worried about it for this application (or other hot applications) consider jet nuts. They're good because they're locking, flanged, and smaller hex than standard.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#jet-nuts/=ch6p25

 

If you can get them long enough I'd also consider using button head machine screws in place of the threaded rod and acorn nuts

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#button-head-machine-screws/=ch6ugg

Edited by nonsense
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  • 3 weeks later...

Gentlemen,

 

We all know there are differences between websites. Here is one website's response to the fundamentals here in this thread, and my "open" reply:

Just in case I'm not heard from again, guys...

 

Hi Jeff,

 

I want to preface this by saying I appreciate members like you very much. You're the type of person that sees a need and makes something for the benefit of the community and I thank you.

 

Unfortunately, your TMIC mod has become popular enough to now be quite visible and I'm starting to get complaints from vendors who pay a fee here to advertise and sell their products.

 

Long story short, you wont be able to continue selling your kit without registering as a vendor on NASIOC.

 

However, I think there are a couple solutions. Since you're clearly not a parts manufacturer, I'm assuming you're doing this in a home shop and it takes you quite a bit of work for each kit. I'm assuming a larger demand wouldn't be easy for you to meet. In the past when this issue has come up for other users like you, they have looked to a local shop that is a vendor here, to partner up with and manufacture/sell their product.

 

I think there are a few in WV that you could look into partnering with. If there aren't, I'm sure that there is a way to partner with a shop that is further away.

 

I could even create a thread in the Vendor forum inquiring if there are any vendors interested in selling your product if you like.

 

Alternatively, you could of course become a vendor yourself. For first time vendors, there is a trial rate of $200 for the first 3 months. You could try that out and see if it makes sense for you.

 

Let me know what you think, I'd like to see your product continue to be successful.

 

thanks,

 

Matt Anderton

NASIOC Vendor Manager

matt@nasioc.com

 

I will not post my response.

 

Cee Lo Greene puts it into fewer words.

 

There must be a moral here somewhere. "Help at your own risk" might be one.

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What vendor actually thinks they're losing a $700 sale because there's an alternative out there for 90% less? 97% less parts only for the hard core DIYers. That's like the music industry claiming every download is a lost album sale.

 

Morons.

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What vendor actually thinks they're losing a $700 sale because there's an alternative out there for 90%

It would be interesting to know how many people have bought an aftermarket TMIC because it flows more and how many bought simply because it can take more boost pressure.

If I were Perrin or AVO, I'd be a lot more concerned about the Chinese copies than some hardware store kludge.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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