BulletProof-TMIC Mod - LGT, 08+ WRX

[Chris GTO TT]

Hey Chris - thanks very much. I have the banding tool and am going to do a couple other things at the same time (like take care of the blue T under the intercooler. I'll let ya know when I get the kit.

 

No problem i've taken care of that too.

[slow_spec.B]

Are the Bulletproof kits currently in stock? Looking to grab one before I go stage 2.

[BarManBean]

Sorry, I don't have any stock right now unless you are willing to run a "shorter than spec" front rail. I had a...ummm...measurement error, need to get back to the machine shop for more material.

 

I have plenty of the 4 top/bottom rails.

[Heytiggr]

Checking in on these...how are you looking for the new sets with correct length pieces?

[0h5LGT]

If they come back in stock I'll take a set.

[Squib308]

I recall seeing the BP mod files on one of the subaru message boards a long time ago, and had acquired some 3/8" aluminum channel. I was planning on having my car tuned, and had some concern whether the stock IC would pop apart or not. Probably not necessary with stock vf40, but on the other hand, the previous owner had dropped the intercooler, or I don't know, used the bottom of it as a fulcrum to lever something else around.. whatever - the point is the bottom of the IC is 'dented', and some of the tabs that hold on to the plastic end caps were a little stretched and deformed. (I should add that the IC is still air tight)

 

Finally getting around to the project of the BP mod, I got the files from SeeYa (thanks!), spent a little bit finding and clamping all the various hoses he mentions should be clamped. (FPR, BPV, manifold, etc)

 

I didn't have the 1/2" channel, so I hope that the having the majority of the tabs clamped up with the 3/8" channel will be sufficient now and in the future.

 

I cut two roughly 24" pieces of 3/8" channel, so I could work on basically two rails at a time (I'm going to call the finished product 'rails' from now on) due to space limitations on my workbench...and it's just easier IMHO to work on shorter sections.

 

I tried a dremel tool mounted in a dremel workstation thing, with a saw blade attachment, and set out to cut one leg of the channel to 9/32". That worked, but was SO FRIGGING SLOW, I figured I would never finish. Something else was needed... Just not enough torque, trouble keeping the dremel from moving around just a little bit, and then binding the saw blade in the cut... pain in the butt.

 

I went to the hardware store, and got a carbide bit for a plunge router (something used for woodworking generally), and also a 'rotary file'. I took the router bit back, as the rotary file worked quite well.

 

I clamped the router in my vise with some mousepads to pad it from the jaws, with the rotary file bit set to just the right height to mill away the aluminum channel - the 'short leg' on the finished rails. Got aluminum EVERYWHERE, but the rotary file did a great job. It certainly helped to lubricate the aluminum with cutting fluid - I tried it at first w/o lube, and the aluminum got hotter when milling it, and also the rotary file loaded up with aluminum. I did at least a few gentle passes first, to reduce the amount of aluminum on the part I was milling, ran the channel past the bit its entire length. This also had the benefit of keeping the channel square to the router - it would have been a pain to keep it square if I cut it all away at once. Also doing it this way kept the bit from getting too hot. Though I did spray it with soapy water when I thought it was getting too hot. (I'm thinking it will anneal and lose its cutting ability if it gets hot)

 

Once enough material had been removed and the file started to cut through the channel, I just went for it, and removed all the now fairly thin aluminum with the rotary file bit.

 

Repeat for the next piece.

 

I cut the 24" or so sections into two appx 10 1/8" sections, with just under 4" of leftover channel. I then drilled a 3/16" hole in the end of each almost completed rail, filed the square ends off to be tapered, and was basically done. With this part.

 

Note that the 10 1/8" rails are somewhat shorter than Seeya's mod files - I did that intentionally, as I didn't want to have any clearance problems. Or use bolts and nuts.. more on that later.

 

I tried putting the rails on the intercooler, and no, they did not want to go. I tried pressing them into the IC with the vise (I know I know, a vise is not a press, yeah yeah.). Not a good idea. The IC just wanted to buckle and become crushed. Ok. I tried hammering the rails on, no dice. Instead of spreading out slightly, the 'U' of the channel wanted to cut into the tabs on the intercooler. Eek!

 

I used a dremel tool and a file to radius the edges of the 'U' hoping that would be enough to let me hammer the rails onto the IC tabs without damage... Didn't seem to damage the IC, but wasn't going to go on, either. Lubrication with wax didn't help; nor did grease.

 

Finally, with about 3 hours to go until I needed to leave to get my car tuned, I took a appx 1/2" smooth steel rod, and pressed it into the 'U' of the channel, slightly spreading out the 'U', so it would slip over the tabs easier. This worked quite well. I did NOT stretch the 'U' out very much, so I still had to hammer some, but it didn't cut the tabs, and went on nicely.

 

Finally, because I am lazy, and didn't want to deal with nuts and bolts and lining everything up just so - I ran stainless zip ties through the holes I had drilled, and tightened them up with a DEI locking tie tool - which is not a great tool, but it got them probably tighter than I could have otherwise.

 

I also removed some excess aluminum on the bottom of the IC where the zip ties were going to go (with a nibbler) - the extra aluminum doesn't appear to serve any purpose, other than forcing me to use longer rails on the IC and possible running into clearance issues.

 

Zipties I cut the 'tail' a little long, then folded it back under toward the locking mechanism, so it wouldn't be able to slip loose with vibration.

 

That's my experience, thanks for the idea, and the info about the various little hoses that I needed to clamp up, too, SeeYa!

 

you can see the zipties and the clearances (and the odd dent in the bottom of my IC toward the front of the car) etc. in my photo. I don't know if everyone has their BPV hoses routed like mine, I have it the way it came, and everything fits just fine. Oh, and the fins on my IC aren't nearly as bad as it looks from this off-angle photo! They're all clear to flow air.

[WaRpEd]

I will take a set if these come in stock.

[WaRpEd]

does anyone have the blueprint info so I can fab this up myself. I haven't heard back from anyone if there will be another batch or not and don't want to wait forever to get back to driving this car.

[asegal17]

are these out of production? id like to order a set as well

[Dade]

I would buy another set as well if someone wanted to make them.

[kmok]

I'd like to order a set when another batch is ready

[SGT Daddy]

Mine has been on 3+years no issues. If and when I would need an another set I would get one.

[Noodle]

Interested as well if these ever get produced again.

[Outback2.5XT-05]

Hey Barman, are you still producing these kits? It seems like there's some unfulfilled interest at the moment. I don't want to hijack your gig but if you're out of the game let us know as I can produce these fairly easily.

 

If anyone is having difficulty getting into contact with barmanbean and still wants to BP their TMIC send me a PM. If there's enough interest I'll gladly upgrade my account to vendor as well. If he's still producing this kit then disregard and thanks for reading.

[BarManBean]

Hey Barman, are you still producing these kits? It seems like there's some unfulfilled interest at the moment. I don't want to hijack your gig but if you're out of the game let us know as I can produce these fairly easily.

 

If anyone is having difficulty getting into contact with barmanbean and still wants to BP their TMIC send me a PM. If there's enough interest I'll gladly upgrade my account to vendor as well. If he's still producing this kit then disregard and thanks for reading.

 

Sending you a PM.

[Outback2.5XT-05]

PM Replied.

[wrx-auto-x]

Is anyone going to be selling these kits? I would like to possibly grab one for my wifes 09 FXT.

[BarManBean]

Is anyone going to be selling these kits? I would like to possibly grab one for my wifes 09 FXT.

 

I'm lined up to get material to the shop when I'm back in town middle of this month, they have about a 2-week turnaround. So looking at September timeframe to be shipping again.

[funkycharms]

I'm lined up to get material to the shop when I'm back in town middle of this month, they have about a 2-week turnaround. So looking at September timeframe to be shipping again.

 

That's great, I will definitely purchase once available. Thanks

[spacemanspif]

Sorry for not reading the whole thread. Can anyone confirm that this apparatus fits under the stock LGT engine cover?

[rmoore5]

Yes it will fit under the cover.

[Farfrumwork]

Farfrumwork's zip-tied BPTMIC is still kicking it. Not that I expected otherwise, this is solid fix.

 

5+ yrs, and 50k+ miles, mostly on a Cryo Stage2 road tune.

 

 

{From March 2012}

Farfrumwork's metal zip-tie method (THE original metal zip-tied BPTMIC). No interference with BPV tube or engine cover.

 

~$30 total (with 3 SS ties and a bunch of AL channel left over...)

 

 

Those are stainless cable ties. 33" length, trimmed up after install. I have PN's and new channel dimensions I can add later in an edit (papers out in the car). I ran a ~.015" deep, 3/16" wide slot down the length of each rail to capture the SS tie.

 

The locking feature on the SS ties allows for some slack, so I had to tension and then "set" the ball (read, hit with a hammer to deform housing and lock in-place). You have to feed and form the SS tie around the rails to get a snug fit; it doesn't have to apply force to the rails, it just has to hold them on - any movement of the rails will only tighten the SS ties hold.

 

I did JB the rails to the IC, but that's not necessary or required, the ties will not fail (100lb load rated). If anything goes wrong in the future I will let everyone know. I'm not too proud to admit failure, but it doesn't happen too often

 

 

 

-Chad

OTS stg2 - protune ASAP!!

 

And they said, why overthink it?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115236&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359

FYI - the sweet heatshield visible on the left didn't last...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115239&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115241&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359

[VespaGTS]

Put me on the list as well!

[Dishwasher]

Mine has about 50k miles on it and is still fine. I did lose one zip tie, it seems to be fine without it.

[DNut]

Also interested when they're available again.