Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5eat tranny issues shifting/slipping?


DHracer
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • Mega Users
I think freessm will do the solenoid purge thing as well as the learning reset. But ATM I can't remember if I read it in the FSM or saw it in freeSSM. You just have to plug the green test connectors in and press a button. It's worth a try before dishing out $75 to a mechanic who will just press a button.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just finished wiping Memory 2 with FreeSSM and then using the procedure a few posts back to re-learn (Used RomRaider Logger to watch the Throttle Opening values) ... Seems to be shifting normal again. Will watch it again tomorrow morning when the trans is cold - I expect it to be a little stiff until it warms up - through the warm up for my morning drive. Will let you know how it turns out.
300k miles, BNR 16g, CryoTune, 'Bullet-Proofed' IC, Motor rebuild @ 250k b/c of a cracked exhaust valve. Original 5 EAT. Oil changed religiously @ 3,000 mi.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
bump. i recently started to get a hesitation from 2nd to 3rd, sort of a delay, rpms rise for a split second. this occasionally happens, going to do a flush and tcu relearn. I plan on letting the car idle with the tranny cooler line into a bucket and drain the pan as well. is it okay to let it idle until the fluid stops coming out of the line. then measure what came out then refill while it's idling? i have about 9qts of ATF to put in incase, not sure how much will come out with the tranny line disconnected
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users

You don't want it sucking air into the system. You can get air bubbles in solenoids and have some issues for a while. There's a self bleed process that can be done, but I can't remember if freeSSM can do it or if it has to be real SSMIII.

 

The pan holds around 4qts, so just drain 2 qts at a time and replace them as you go to save headaches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

interesting. like i said in the other thread, i did a pan drain and fill about 10-15k ago and when i checked the fluid on the dipstick yesterday, it was pretty bright red. when i installed the tranny cooler on friday night, the atf in those lines were anything but cherry red. more like

 

this color

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just bought an 05 2.5i with 84,000 miles and a 5EAT about 3 months ago. A month ago it starts with the slipping described in this thread. I checked the fluid and it's super high, like twice the amount needed. I drained it off and the problem compounded, now when it's cold it won't go into D at all. It'll drop into R, but not D until it's warmed up. It takes about 10 min or so and then it'll drop in. Once on the road it shifts like a brick for the first 15 min or so, then it's fine.

 

I'm changing the fluid and filter today (who knows when the last time it was done)

any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ahhh, well. in that case maybe your shifter linkages are worn out causing the gear selection to not line up properly? im not well versed on the 4eat as they seem to be rather robust and/or well suited for n/a cars' power levels. have you done a proper atf flush? or just a pan drain/fill. there's a subaru procedure that resets the tcu learning parameters, then the tech switches it between P R N D and according to the manual, the time lapse should be no more than 1.2seconds between modes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm very late to the party. I skimmed the thread, didn't read a lot of it (experience suggests it's a waste of time).

 

Order of problem solving.

1) Check fluid LEVEL and condition. Level is important (check while motor is running). Low level means you slip a lot. Too high means you're going to get crap performance (since you'll get air bubbles throughout the fluid). Condition is not as critical. These cars car run just fine on blackish or dark brownish fluid that has lost the ability to self-clean the transmission. Spent fluid is NOT GOOD for the transmission, but it's usually not the problem. If it sped up you getting to where you are, damage is already done, and changing fluid usually doesn't reverse course unless your existing fluid is SO terrible it hardly resembles the operating properties of ATF anymore.

2) Software. The TCU on these cars is very finicky. A reset can help if a car develops an odd, repeatably slam that is isolated to a specific driving scenario, not ever present. Sometimes the learning causes weird behavior (it uncommon), and a reset followed by passive re-learn can get you back to more normal behavior. This can be the answer, but it does not sound like your problem.

3) The transmission makes gear ratios (aka "gears", 1,2,3,4,5,R). The gear ratios are made by locking up certain clutch packs. The clutch packs are locked by hydraulically squeezing layers of friction disks against layers of steel plates, until the two differing rotating parts lock together. The whole thing is actuated by and bathed in ATF. These friction disks are wear parts, like the clutch on a manual transmission, or brake pads. After they've done their time, they wear out to the point where they need to be replaced. These friction disks can be replaced with new ones. That's a lot of what's done when a "rebuild" is done.

 

It's likely you just need a rebuild. Cost of driving a car with ~100,000 miles.

 

BTW, the valve body modification I sell makes the aforementioned squeeze a lot more firm / faster so you get less slip and more grip. But the transmission needs to be healthy for it to work right, aka you need your frictions to be in good shape. Yours most likely are not. So a transmission replacement or rebuild is the solution.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's funny with my situation, and Apex-xt had a similar one, is when my motor was out my battery was left connected and it ran dead and needed a recharge(about a week ago). i wonder if this caused some of this weird shift things. regardless, i'm doing an ssm3 relearn tomorrow with my buddy master tech...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i did 2 tranny drain/fills with running the car on the lift at temp between flushes. Then drove to my buddy at the dealer he put it on the lift and cleared memory 2 and activated the relearn procedure. The ssm3 walks you right through the process. Car does need to be in the air for the procedure though as it tests the awd system with the ebrake on (front wheels spin as it learns).

 

I have a feeling the 07 or 08+ tcu has a different learning process as my buddy said they dont need to do that whole 12% throttle plate angle and switch through gears. It adapts once you drive it. Drove it out of the dealer and could tell it waa learning between gears still as all geat changes had a delay. As i drove it more the gear changes were quicker. So far, its much better and the tranny seems more responsive to downshifts and firmer upshifts. We attempted to do the ssm3 relearn procesure whith the car on the ground but it didnt work since the front wheels need to be spinning for it to learn the awd system. After numerous switches to P R N D the ssm3 said process finished normally. I have an open source tune on and it didnt interfere with the process nor could my buddy tell i had a tune when doing this process. Just an fyi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took mine to a local transmission shop; he drove it for about five minutes, looked at the dip stick and told me it would be a $1800 rebuild. Needless to say I'm getting a second opinion, but the Subie dealer here can't get me in till next week.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

$1800 :lol:

 

A rebuild is the only thing 99% of transmission shops can do. What else would they do... don't say a flush, because a flush can lead to a rebuild pretty quick, depending on the situation.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use