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05 Legacy Audio FAQ Compiled from board


gfxdave99

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Hi all. New member but a lurking type so seemed like a good idea to pay it forward.

 

I was about to jump off and get the jazzy board which I've read about for over a year to get some aux in love for my iPhone in my 2005 2.5i when I stumbled upon the Sony XDP-MU110 at crutchfield. It's an iPod/iPhone dedicated DSP unit similar to some linked at the head of this thread, but has a built in amp and its $50 delivered. Pretty unbelievable price. Notably it is discontinued.

 

I jumped off and ordered one yesterday. Anyone have any experience with this unit? Web info is pretty limited regarding real world use.

 

Here's the user manual for it if interested.

 

Cheers

 

form

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FWIW, do not put that mount on your dashboard. It will destroy it if you try to take it off (My PO did something like that, so I've been looking for a new dash).

 

That system looks interesting, It seems to take the place of a Cleansweep and a small amp. I wouldn't plan on getting aftermarket speakers with that amp. It won't have enough power for most of them.

 

Look at the SVX (ae64.com) harness to keep your factory wiring in place for the speakers. It is probably worth getting the Dynamat door kit or some B-Quiet v-comp, or both.

Edited by compsurge
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  • 2 years later...
Hey guys I have a question, I just bought the bracket from Japan to convert my stock stereo which has auto climate control to a double din and had to order the two separate peices to do so. But when I went to hook the AC unit up the stock one had two black clips and the new one only has one and I can't seem to get it to turn on. Does anyone have a answer or solution to get the new AC head to work?
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  • 3 weeks later...

One thing I'm failing to see mentioned anywhere is where you'd tap for the "remote on" wire for an aftermarket amp?

 

Also, in regards to the cleansweep, there are only two sets of outputs, for the door speakers... Would one simply y-cable the front speaker output to drive the amp for the subwoofer?

 

Thank you =)

Edited by scrupul0us
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  • 3 months later...
i have an 05 legacy that im putting a kenwood hu in and i was wondering what to do with the orange illumination wire (-) and orange/white wire (+) coming from the metra 70-8901 adapter my kenwood harness has neither wire in it and i remember having to ground the orange wire wen putting a radio in a 97 legacy becuz i had no gauge lights before but the dimmer for dash lights didnt work i was wondering if anyone came across this before and what i might be able to do
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  • 1 month later...

[ATTACH]222441[/ATTACH]

 

The sticky claims a little less than 2" for speaker depth.

 

So I need a spacer?

 

Well gee, just how thick can I make the spacer before I have to worry about the speaker surround hitting the plastic door card? My speakers are 3" deep. Can I go 1" on the spacer?

 

 

 

 

 

^^My thoughts exactly. I'm sick of forums including speaker depth, but then they don't include how much room you have from the door panel to the plastic door card. Let me clear some things up.

 

If you were to roll down the window, you have right under 2" from the door panel to the window. This is where they get the 2" figure in the sticky.

 

 

I spent some time measuring the doors,

 

 

In the front doors of an 05 Legacy GT, you have exactly 3.25" from the window to the plastic door card & not a sixteenth inch more or less. So you do the math. That's about 1.25" from the door panel to the plastic door card. Can you get away with a 1" speaker spacer? Probably not. You still need to mount a speaker on there & that's going to be at least a quarter inch if not more. Remember, you need room for excursion. Your speaker surround is literally going to be pressed right up to the plastic door card after you put it back on the panel. NOT good.

 

 

 

 

***Take a look at the picture I included. See what's circled? That's the nut holding the window track to the door panel. Take the nut off, & throw a few washers in-between the window track & the door panel to push it back into the door cavity a bit. What? Lol ya riptard. You need to remove the speaker to do this. I did this & gained a quarter inch. I wouldn't go any more as you'll run out of threading on the stud. Plus you're putting tension on the window. Mine didn't roll up any slower, but if you go too much, it WILL roll up slowly.

 

 

 

so a little less than 2" of speaker depth? Rofl, no.

 

 

 

 

Car lingo:

 

Door panel: the metal thing you see after removing the plastic door card

 

Door card: The plastic thing covering the door panel. The thing you remove to get at your speakers.

 

 

Everyone gets those two mixed up.

 

 

 

 

 

Annnnd....

 

 

MiniDSP, JBL MS8, Audison Bitone & Bit ten, etc...

 

 

Idk why legacygt.com only includes the cleansweep. JL audio paying them to do this? There are oodles of other processors available. Threesixty one two three. Lol there's three more

 

 

 

 

 

 

What's the depth of the rear speakers? Idk, I never used them. I CAN tell you it is a lil more though...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

My previous system:

 

 

Silver Flute 5" (2.75" depth) The 6" version would have been pushing it.

Dayton RS 75 Midrange

Dayton Silkies

 

Single Goldwood 8 on the rear shelf

 

 

Phoenix Gold M50 on the mids

Pair of Phoenix Gold M25's on the midranges & tweets

M100 bridged for the goldwood. This was overkill big time.

 

I don't even remember what my x over points were

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yeah.

 

I used the stock speaker wires as trying to fish wiring through the door is ....too hard. Serious. Will that be okay even if I have an external amplifier? Lmao, look up the numbers. Unless your not running football fields of wire, yeah it'll be plenty. Trust me Im an engineer?

 

Does it count if you're a student? No serious, I'm ee.

 

Srs

 

 

Good luck!

 

v3Ht94U.jpg.f021f1b5d45166c5b1ec77fbdf789858.jpg

Edited by INTP_ty
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  • 9 months later...
The stock head unit is 4 x 12W RMS @ 0.1% THD (with a tailwind, downhill). Any claims of greater power are full of ummm... optimism.

Is this the same for the P-204UN stereo? I have a no frills HU (P-201) in my 06 SE wagon.... guess i will have to look for speakers with high sensitivity that still fit.....

 

also, I went w/ the iSimple IS32 wired modulator. Not quite as good as direct connection, but way much better than ANY and ALL wireless modulators I have tried.....

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  • 9 months later...

You can go a different route. I installed a single DIN signal processor head unit that is more flexible and cleaner than a cleansweep. Pioneer DEH-80PRS. It cost $250.

The front separates are inexpensive.

$30 each Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofer Wool Cone 4 ohm.

$34 each Peerless XT25TG30-04 1" Ring Radiator Tweeter 4 ohm. It's a common setup at DIY Mobile Audio.

Google this speaker, It is the Gemme Audio Tanto which uses the exact same drivers in them. They are reviewed on this link. http://www.stereomojo.com/Tanto%20Review/GemmeAudioTantoReview.htm

Below is a link to the install on my car. I included detailed speaker depth measurements near the end of the replies.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/380226-2005-2009-outback-legacy-audio-system-upgrade.html

RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Thanks, good information here. I now need to work on my speakers.

 

If anyone is interested and the have the factory MacIntosh premium stereo and you can plug an MP3 adapter into where the 6 CD stacker goes.

 

Allows you just put all your music onto MP3 on a SD Card. Had it running now for 3 years, no problems.

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Well it looks to me like if you have the JDM Legacy with the 11 speaker McIntosh premium system and you want to keep the head unit and existing amps, and why wouldn't you because it sounds fine, its a bit tricky because I don't know if anyone noticed but the front door 6"bass and 3" midrange speakers are actually 8 OHMS and not your typical 4 Ohm car audio speaker.

 

Pulled the front door cards and decided to have a look at the factory speakers.

 

Not sounding great with certain music turned up loud and the reasons became obvious, the 6inch speakers had no foam cone suspension left. Also I just lightly touched what looked like perfect midrange speakers and the foam disintegrated.

 

For those that are interested the factory bass speaker is part McIntosh 090-0141-45 but what is really interesting is that its 8 Ohms not 4.

 

The midrange is part McIntosh 090-0051-60 and is also 8 Ohms.

 

Decided to get them re-coned as they are mounted in raised Nylon plastic moldings and changing that is just too much work and getting anything 8 Ohms is just not a happening thing.

 

The factory 11 speaker set-up is pretty good, even with stuffed speakers so it should be great returned too near new condition.

Edited by Tronic
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  • 3 months later...

I'm a bit late to the party but I just bought a 2005 Outback XT. I was surprised by how challenging it would be to put a bluetooth system in the car so I achieved it in a sort of round about method. I installed a bluetooth amp and a set of relays to switch the speakers over from radio to bluetooth. I recorded my process in case anyone else wants to give it a go.

 

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I'm a bit late to the party but I just bought a 2005 Outback XT. I was surprised by how challenging it would be to put a bluetooth system in the car so I achieved it in a sort of round about method. I installed a bluetooth amp and a set of relays to switch the speakers over from radio to bluetooth. I recorded my process in case anyone else wants to give it a go.

 

 

I commend you for the hard work you put into this system and the video tutorial, but there is a much simpler way to do this. The JazzyAux mod + RCA->aux cable + an aux to Bluetooth unit powered through the cigarette lighter will work just fine and also gives you controls for the Bluetooth.

 

Yes, my method is more expensive (~$85) but less than the JDM conversion and much less work than what others have done.

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For a more OEM alternative, I upgraded to the P204UH head unit with an svxdc harness to use the factory aux jack in the center console, then I plugged a Bluetooth receiver into the aux and 12V jack there. Factory aux, through and through, that's easily converted to Bluetooth.

 

I'm upgrading to a JDM double DIN setup, though

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I commend you for the hard work you put into this system and the video tutorial, but there is a much simpler way to do this. The JazzyAux mod + RCA->aux cable + an aux to Bluetooth unit powered through the cigarette lighter will work just fine and also gives you controls for the Bluetooth.

 

Yes, my method is more expensive (~$85) but less than the JDM conversion and much less work than what others have done.

Dang, I didn't come across the JazzyAux mod in my initial search... I guess I should have been a bit more thorough. That method is definitely the way to go. I'm happy with my setup though and I had a bit of fun with my project.

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