Where to start w/ Suspension...sways/endlinks/etc

[GotTurboWut]

What mod(s) are good places to start when upgrading handling, suspension, etc.

I've read the thread re "How much $$ until happy w/ suspension" but definitely not looking to drop that kind of money. So where would one start?

I've been looking at sways (front/rear).

FYI: Live in area that gets snow (VA) and live in a mountain development that has some unpaved roads (gravel).

Thanks!!

[BAC5.2]

Swaybars/endlinks/reinforcement brackets and good tires are a great way to spend $1300 to totally transform how the car behaves without sacrificing anything in terms of ride quality, reliablity, or utility.

[GotTurboWut]

I have new tires. Leaning toward Rallitek sways/endlinks.

[robinlsb]

Swaybars/endlinks/reinforcement brackets and good tires are a great way to spend $1300 to totally transform how the car behaves without sacrificing anything in terms of ride quality, reliablity, or utility.

 

You only need end links if you run into clearance problems. The single biggest change is tires, sways make you feel better and change the balance of the car.

[BAC5.2]

You only need end links if you run into clearance problems. The single biggest change is tires, sways make you feel better and change the balance of the car.

 

Nonsense. The stock endlinks suck. A good, solid, 1-piece endlink will save you clunking and problems down the line. Mine made noise from the day the car rolled off the truck. The KB endlinks were worth every penny.

 

I'd go for the FBP/Hotchkis bar package with endlinks and brackets.

[robinlsb]

Nonsense. The stock endlinks suck. A good, solid, 1-piece endlink will save you clunking and problems down the line. Mine made noise from the day the car rolled off the truck. The KB endlinks were worth every penny.

 

I'd go for the FBP/Hotchkis bar package with endlinks and brackets.

 

Interesting:lol: "Clunking" is caused by clearance problems associated with the design of the bar.

 

End links don't improve handling, they are just attachments for the sway bar.

[GotTurboWut]

so, f/r sways + endlinks = win

 

If only had $ for one or the other (front or rear), which one?

[BAC5.2]

Interesting:lol: "Clunking" is caused by clearance problems associated with the design of the bar.

 

End links don't improve handling, they are just attachments for the sway bar.

 

Even more interesting, since it was OEM sway bars using OEM endlinks that were clunking.

 

 

Endlinks ARE attachments for the sway bar, and that means they are directly related to how effectively the swaybars work. Stiffer endlinks mean less energy is wasted deflecting them, and more goes into effectively utilizing the swaybars. You can't say they don't alter handling. That's like saying that stiffer LCA bushings don't improve handling.

[BAC5.2]

so, f/r sways + endlinks = win

 

If only had $ for one or the other (front or rear), which one?

 

How much do you have?

 

The FBP combo is ~$600 with the bars, endlinks, and brackets.

 

If I had to choose a more budget minded setup, I'd probably find a used 22mm front bar and get an OEM 19mm rear bar. I really like the Kartboy endlinks as well. That setup would probably cost you 2/3 what the FBP combo would.

 

Or, you could wait until winter is over and you've saved a few more mod dollars and get the FBP combo.

[robinlsb]

so, f/r sways + endlinks = win

 

If only had $ for one or the other (front or rear), which one?

 

 

Not the front unless you enjoy lots of more understeer:lol:

[BAC5.2]

Not the front unless you enjoy lots of more understeer:lol:

 

Don't listen to this.

[robinlsb]

Don't listen to this.

 

Absolutely don't listen to me. A stiffer front sway doesn't produce more under steer. Heck! That is why people put stiffer rear sways to reduce understeer.

 

Heck, put the hugest , biggest, nastiest sway Bar on the front. Then you can learn about tire loading:lol:

 

With a huge sway bay, you can put all of the load on just the outside tire:rolleyes:

 

Screw the other three, they are there ,just along for the ride:lol:

[Wang Lung]

OP, aren't you glad you asked?

[N.sane]

Based on the fact that you see a lot of snow and unpaved roads, just get a JDM 20mm rear bar + AVO sway bar brackets and leave your OEM 21mm front on there. Beefy bars will just increase your chance of sliding around in the snow and lose ride quality on uneven pavement.

[robinlsb]

Even more interesting, since it was OEM sway bars using OEM endlinks that were clunking.

 

 

Endlinks ARE attachments for the sway bar, and that means they are directly related to how effectively the swaybars work. Stiffer endlinks mean less energy is wasted deflecting them, and more goes into effectively utilizing the swaybars. You can't say they don't alter handling. That's like saying that stiffer LCA bushings don't improve handling.

 

 

:lol:

[robinlsb]

Even more interesting, since it was OEM sway bars using OEM endlinks that were clunking.

 

 

Endlinks ARE attachments for the sway bar, and that means they are directly related to how effectively the swaybars work. Stiffer endlinks mean less energy is wasted deflecting them, and more goes into effectively utilizing the swaybars. You can't say they don't alter handling. That's like saying that stiffer LCA bushings don't improve handling.

 

The Op was looking for the best bang for the buck. Stiffer end links, or stiffer LCA's or the replacement of any rubber bushing will improve the change in suspension geometry. That presumes that you have spent hours and hours of testing to find the sweet spot, for a particular track.

 

So the OP can spend 1000's of bucks on suspension parts, that don't do a whit unless you can "BEND" parts caused by sticky tires or spend the money on tires.

 

Tell ya what. Which will do the most gee's. A stock Subaru suspension with say, GY F1 asyms, or a fully modified Subaru suspension, coilovers, sway bars, and every solid bushing you can buy and all season tires:lol:

[GotTurboWut]

I'm leaning toward what N.Sane said. Thanks

[GotTurboWut]

JDM

Avo brackets

avo, rallitek HD, kb endlinks is the question now??

[BAC5.2]

I went with the KB's. They are decently priced, have readily available replacement bushings (and bushings that don't die ASAP like some others), and no moving parts. Win, Win, Win.

[GotTurboWut]

Seems like a lot of guys are going w/ KB links. No plans of auto x, etc...just a dd that I'd like a better ride. Would it be fine to just get a JDM 20 mm rsb and stay with the stock links and no bracket? Same rsb on JDM models w/ same hardware right?

[wpmarky]

I used the AVO 19mm RSB with stock endlinks for a year, and it felt great. no problems. Not sure about JDM hardware, should be the same.

[N.sane]

I would get the AVO brackets regardless. Stock bracket has been known to snap with even the stock RSB.

 

I'm planning to get the JDM 20mm bar also. I was just thinking of getting brand new OEM endlinks at the same time as fresh replacements since it's not a very beefy bar. I'm also planning to use Energy Suspension sway bar bushings, they come with sturdier collars.

[BAC5.2]

I don't like to half-ass things. Thats why I did the brackets with the swaybars. I didn't want to have to worry, and I didn't want to have to go back later and fix things. The additional up-front cost just meant that I would wait a few weeks longer to order, but the lack of downtime in the future is worth every extra penny.

[MDork]

if you had to pick between the reinforcement bracket and new endlinks when you do the rear sway - i'd go with the bracket.

[GotTurboWut]

Agree to all above...Don't want to have to go back and add brackets/links when I could do it all at once.

Looks like I'll go w/ JDM 20mm rsb w/ Avo brackets/mounts w/ KB links. Seems like a solid setup for a DD.