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5EAT torque converter


bmx045

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Would a upgraded tc be needed for 400whp? along w the hex f1 one mod of course?

 

No TC modification needed. Think about it this way: it comes upgraded from the factory.

 

also could you increase line pressure to prevent slip?

 

F1 does this, but the converter will still stall and slip the same as stock. TC lockup will be stronger with the F1.

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Sweet. I do have slightly hard shift from 2nd-3rd sometimes under light acceleration.I am in need of a flush but was holding out untill the f1. Should I address this now our wait to see if the f1 clears it up.
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Sweet. I do have slightly hard shift from 2nd-3rd sometimes under light acceleration.I am in need of a flush but was holding out untill the f1. Should I address this now our wait to see if the f1 clears it up.

 

F1 won't clear it up, might make it clunk harder. It is important to have the 5eat in alright shape before installing the F1.

If it was my car, I would do a safe flush that only uses fresh fluid, and does not use high pressure. It's not fun to try to get this information from a shop, but I've seen several flush machines ruin old transmissions. But it's ok, the same shop can replace the transmission for $200 off :lol:

After that, I would do a TCU full reset. If it's still doing the clunk after that, then regardless of whether you upgrade the VB or not, your trans will still not be terribly far from a rebuild or replacement. Fact is the 5eat clutch packs are wear parts, like a clutch or brakes, they eventually need to be replaced after normal use.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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  • 4 years later...
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To anyone having torque converter issues or had one replaced. What were your original problems?

09 3.0r 5eat 125k

Besides the trans always wanting to stay or get in 5th gear, I have a shutter when accelerating. Around 1800-3600rpms the trans seems to shutter like it wants to go for 5th but knows it should be going for 3rd and goes, duhduhduhduh, then continues to the appropriate gear. Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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First try to reset your TCU and consider updating the TCU CALID to the latest if not already there. Since you're local I can help you do that if you're interested for a symbolic fee (if you choose to skip the dealership).

 

Has your 5EAT ever been flushed or drain-n-filled? If yes, how often/when last?

Do you have a transmission cooler installed?

Capture.JPG.3bb3167fd9141bfb0a03c06e87261648.JPG

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I have also been thinking about TQ converters lately. I just had my car Dyno tuned for a VF52 and supporting mods including the HexMods F1 VB Mod. Now If I accelerate aggressively, or apply even a trivial amount of brake torque, my car will bounce off the limiter before it will shift.:mad: I'm wondering if this can be fixed with the tune itself. But like Dave said, The factory Converter is pretty robust to begin with. I think I read somewhere that the factory stall on the 5EAT is about 3500. While I have never launched at this RPM because I like my car better when its drivable, I have stood on the brakes and wound the RPM's up to about 350o and then let off out of curiosity. The car tried to stall out but didn't.
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First try to reset your TCU and consider updating the TCU CALID to the latest if not already there. Since you're local I can help you do that if you're interested for a symbolic fee (if you choose to skip the dealership).

 

Has your 5EAT ever been flushed or drain-n-filled? If yes, how often/when last?

Do you have a transmission cooler installed?

 

 

 

I have no idea if it's ever been updated. 2nd owner at 65k.

Sadly since owned if only replaced trans filter once and drained pan twice with adding. No aftermarket cooler.

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I have also been thinking about TQ converters lately. I just had my car Dyno tuned for a VF52 and supporting mods including the HexMods F1 VB Mod. Now If I accelerate aggressively, or apply even a trivial amount of brake torque, my car will bounce off the limiter before it will shift.:mad: I'm wondering if this can be fixed with the tune itself. But like Dave said, The factory Converter is pretty robust to begin with. I think I read somewhere that the factory stall on the 5EAT is about 3500. While I have never launched at this RPM because I like my car better when its drivable, I have stood on the brakes and wound the RPM's up to about 350o and then let off out of curiosity. The car tried to stall out but didn't.

 

 

Originally Posted by ClimberD@HexMods

No one has ever been able to Tune the TCU. Best I have come across is ThrottleHappy from Australia (a gifted tuner) having some proprietary access to ECU tables that further influence the behavior of the TCU. I would ask him, tell him I sent you.

But that 1-2 shift is a different issue. It's common, and the solution is a couple different approaches through any good ECU tuner.

1) Raise redline, tune the new ROM range.

2) Close up the numerical RPM gap between fuel cut and fuel resume.

3) Scale up requested torque cells and scale down throttle position cells to compensate so that accelerator pedal angle and throttle angle keep a similar relationship between eachother.

4) Cut boost considerably at 100+rpm before redline. This is a really great trick, surprised more tuners aren't doing it. This will also save your transmission a lot of wear.

 

Cut target boost and WGDC above 6400ish rpm to 0. I haven't had this issue since then.

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