black318i Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I thought about this too, but decided for the time and money I'd be better off with a turbo swap and maybe injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Anyone added headers and seen much of a difference from them? And FYI I'm 6'4" and 150 lbs.... Not much weight to lose there! Haha This is OT, but holy cray you're skinny! I'm 5'9" and about 140 and I'm a normal weight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 - Minimize drag. Check out all details that causes drag, even narrower tires will help. Rim design too. And remove external rear view mirrors. - Tune suspension height around the car when you are seated in the car. - Never keep oil level in engine above halfway between min and max. (same for gearbox) - Wear spandex while driving! - No washer fluid in canister (or at least only a minimal amount) - Single wiper blade front, remove rear if you have any, including motor. - Methanol/water injection for engine when you have a lot of boost. (allows you to increase boost too) - Fine tune downforce by using custom front lip and rear wing. No more downforce than necessary, and find a wing that has lower drag than stock. A custom one in carbon fiber maybe? - Throw away AC. - Remove all unnecessary seats and replace drivers seat with one in carbon fiber. - Remove carpets. - Remove unnecessary control modules like central locking. - Ash tray and glove compartment isn't needed. Neither is the sound equipment. Speakers are heavy. - Skip fog lights and install flat panels. The fog lights adds weight and causes extra drag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggerheist Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 im 6'4" 250 im not losing any weight since this is me for the past 5+ years, im running stg 2 with Borla UEL headers, couldnt tell you what kind of difference it makes because i put those on with everything else from the jump to save some cash from having to retune. if you want more powah save, get a forged block swap turbo go front mount, new injectors, etc etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I'm 5'11 and 220.. I need to drop some weight to go faster too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Boost control solenoid for better boost control and an upgraded PSI actuator. However, you are getting into the territory of minimal return on investment. Port and polish job is simply not worth the cash when you could do the cheapest upgrade with a BNR 16G hybrid for significant gains. It's a no-brainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Port and pollish grimspeed high flow cross over pipe and both manifolds will add more for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 There is only so much your going to gain with parts after a stage 2 on a stock turbo. You next best thing for the money would be to simply go e85....but that will be costly as well...mostly because of having to get a new clutch (unless you like a slipping clutch). While in there you might as well change the fw. All these other bolts on's that people are talking about are only going to get 1-5 hp with still being on a stock turbo. Until you change the turbo you are limiting a lot of the benefits all these parts will give. If you don't want to change the turbo, go e85....not only will you see a nice power gain, but you can run a safer tune as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garygbnj Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 06 lgt 5mt vf43 sti tmic catted downpipe borla cat back exhaust spec stage 2 clutch spec ltwt flywheel access port tuned (when it was a vf39) by ? in Conn. original tune yielded 330 dyno hp (not wheel hp) on an 86 degree day in the shop-this original tune with a vf39 and stock clutch will make me dizzy on a launch unless my head is against the headrest. I have not tried a hard launch yet as the new spec clutch is not broken in yet. The vf43 spools up sooner with almost no discernable turbo lag. A friend advised me on what to use on the build for the most bang for the buck. He felt that what I put in made the most sense. The other items mentioned would yield very little hp for the money that they would cost. The car is the best sleeper that I have ever driven. Goes like a bat out of hell. Significant improvement with the vf43 without stressing the drive train. I was going to go beyond stage 2 but felt that the drive train would give out with much more hp. The car is a daily driver and reliable. Yeilds 24 mpg on 2ndary roads. Yet when I call for it the unbelievable acceleration is there. This is the best automobile I have ever had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Once you swap turbos it's not really a typical stage 2. More like stage 3 for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 That's a little unclear and not set in stone. Technically stage 3 also means you swapping injectors and pump, which are not an absolute requirement for an BNR 16G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=866491&postcount=1 Unofficial Legacy GT “Stage Upgrade” Definitions Stage 0: Stock with or without; panel filter / intake, or pulley Stage 1: Stage 0 plus an upgraded ECU map/tune Stage 1.5: Stage 0 plus a down pipe, and basic stage 2 map/tune Stage 2: Up pipe, down pipe, upgraded stage 2 ECU map/tune. With or without Stage 0 Stage 2.5: Stage 2 plus a header, cat back exhaust, intercooler upgrade, further upgraded ECU map/tune Stage 3: Stage 2.5 plus upgraded turbo, and stock fuel system Stage 3.5: Stage 2.5 plus upgraded turbo and upgraded fuel system Stage 4: Stage 3 or 3.5 plus upgraded heads or a full engine build Stage 4.5: Stage 3 or 3.5 with both upgraded heads and a full engine build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 I thought stage 3 was internals of the engine changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Well definitions aside, a VF43/STi swap w/stage 2 parts will be putting out a good bit more power than a VF40 or 46 w/stage 2 parts. I am running a pretty maxxed out stage 2+ set up (CAI, header, UP, TBE, FMIC, Infamous1 tune) and the car definitely pulls pretty hard (up to a certain point of course). Plenty enough power as a DD for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Stage three and a half. That definitely doesn't sound funny when said out loud or to people at meets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 What about TGV deletes? Lighter wheels too . But seriously if you really wanted to go crazy and you want to have the fastest stage II setup you could go all out and reduce rotating mass everywhere...lighter driveshafts, brake rotors...anything that spins and you can make lighter makes huge differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggerheist Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 stages are stupid just make it go fast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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