A/C Compressor Clutch Replacement - DIY Walkthrough

[SoloTSi97]

My CEL light came on today when the A/C was on. with the A/C on, the car had an odd vibration coming from the engine bay whenever i was idling at a light (in gear, in neutral, didn't matter). A/C works though, if the A/C works, is there any reason to do this fix? I"m just trying to diagnose the issue. Gonna either stop at dealer or autozone tomorrow to have codes read.

 

If the AC works, there is no reason to do this particular fix. I'd suspect that there's another reason for the CEL, which is causing the engine to not run at 100%, and the added strain of the compressor kicking on is just making the problem worse or more noticeable. The CEL could be all kinds of things, so best to do what you plan and have the codes read. Good luck!

[ibr_adam09]

Throwing This out there. I have a compressor available in like new condition

[EPLegacyGT]

Just an FYI for anyone in the future who has better google skills. I obviously did like everyone and bought a refurbished/junk yard/new A/C compressor and only used the clutch. The clutch has its own part number and after doing an ebay search found some possible units.

 

Part number: PA 66-GF 25K

 

See attached pic.

[Tehnation]

its probably the part number from the manufacturer that subaru gets it from. But thats not subaru part number format. If we can find out the manufacturer of the compressor then we would be on to something!

[EPLegacyGT]

Isn't it a Denso part number? Not a Subaru part #

[andy12314]

I have AC finally! I had to bang the hell out of the pulley to get it off on both compressors. Definitely not pressed on. Took me about 1.5 hours with the right tools. Getting the snap rings off and on are a PITA.

 

Thanks Solo, you saved me over a grand!!

I just about gave up till I saw your message. Ended up using a crow bar/pry bar to get it off. The Bearing was horrible sounding. Autozone carries the bearing 35mmx55mmx20mm at least on my 2004 Outback 2.5. Good luck to everyone! :-)

[Willson556]

I found a kit on eBay utilizing new parts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252332680584?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I liked the idea of getting ones without any wear so I didn't end up having to do this again 6-12 months down the road.

 

Installed today and it's working great so far. It came with a new coil but I didn't bother installing it as I couldn't see any reason it would be functioning any worse than factory.

 

Everything went very smoothly. The only tricky bit was getting the distance between the two clutch faces right. The new assembly came with two thin washers. The stock assembly was installed with a thick washer and a medium washer. For me, the thick washer and medium washer together had the two parts just touching so I added another thin washer to separate them slightly. It's possible that as these wear-in the washer stack-up may need adjusting. In fact, I think it's possible that if I'd just adjusted the spacing the stock one would have run longer.

 

The parts are definitely not identical to the stock ones been seem well enough made. I'll post back in 6 months time to update everyone on how they're holding up.

[utc_pyro]

Looks like I'm joining this club... <removed>

 

Edit: Relay contact corrosion actually caused symptoms that exactally matched this issue. Taking a Brillo pad to the contacts fixed it.

Edited October 20, 2016 by utc_pyro

[Volta55]

"Once the snap ring is removed, the pulley will slide right off."

 

what??

 

 

did not work for me... took the 10mm bolt off easy, then the "wavy" snap ring easy, and thats it... the clutch did not budge off the shaft.. even hit it with a hammer a couple times with the compressor suspended in the air

[SoloTSi97]

"Once the snap ring is removed, the pulley will slide right off."

 

what??

 

 

did not work for me... took the 10mm bolt off easy, then the "wavy" snap ring easy, and thats it... the clutch did not budge off the shaft.. even hit it with a hammer a couple times with the compressor suspended in the air

The "wavy" washer is not the snap ring. The snap ring is shaped like a C (not a full circle) that fits into a groove on the compressor shaft.

 

When taking mine apart, once the snap ring was removed, there was no resistance at all holding the pulley on.

 

Good luck!

 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

[Volta55]

What happens if after installation, the gap between the outer clutch plate is more than 0.017? Machine the washers down to the proper gap? I can't believe my a/c is still not working ugh

[SoloTSi97]

What happens if after installation, the gap between the outer clutch plate is more than 0.017? Machine the washers down to the proper gap? I can't believe my a/c is still not working ugh

 

How many washers are in there? Just one? If so, given the pretty poor tolerance on washer thickness, you might try visiting your local hardware store and picking through the bin for a thinner washer in the same diameter? If you have the means to machine the washer to be thinner, that's certainly an option I guess.

 

Sorry, I didn't have this issue. And, having sold my LGT about five years ago, I don't have the means to be terribly helpful beyond what I remember from documenting this job.

[1-3-2-4]

Thanks for this! trying to get things ready for me to install the engine and I just happen to look at the compressor and I noticed the pulley is stuck I can't turn it by hand only just the clutch.. so I was happy I can just replace the front pulley and not the whole compressor.

[clearanceman]

I've had this thread bookmarked with notices for YEARS waiting for my clutch to go. It's a 2000 legacy with 318,000 miles and the original ac clutch is still going. Sometimes it groans but it's still turning. AC is still cold. LOL. One day, I'll return for instructions!

[Brock Samson]

I finally tracked down a horrid noise coming from my engine bay to the AC clutch. I hit it with some brake cleaner which helped a bit, but I'm planning on replacing it this weekend.

 

FYI, Amazon has the clutch assembly for $80. Prime. http://amzn.to/2ucIsbI

 

I'll be back with review of the new unit and some pics of installation.

 

Are there any recommendations of which specific snap ring pliers work well for getting the second snap **** ring off?

[Brock Samson]

Also I should note my AC works great....the clutch is just making a godawful whiney scream.

[SoloTSi97]

Also I should note my AC works great....the clutch is just making a godawful whiney scream.

 

Are you sure it's the clutch itself making noise? A bad noise like that when the clutch is engaged may actually indicate a bearing problem in the compressor itself. Since the compressor only spins when the clutch is engaged, you'd only hear bearing noise when the clutch is engaged (unlike when this happens with an alternator or power steering pump, where the squeal is constant because those are always spinning).

 

Just a thought!

 

-Bob

[SoloTSi97]

I finally tracked down a horrid noise coming from my engine bay to the AC clutch. I hit it with some brake cleaner which helped a bit, but I'm planning on replacing it this weekend.

 

FYI, Amazon has the clutch assembly for $80. Prime. http://amzn.to/2ucIsbI

 

I'll be back with review of the new unit and some pics of installation.

 

Are there any recommendations of which specific snap ring pliers work well for getting the second snap **** ring off?

 

I'm pretty sure that I did the whole job with this set, which I already had on hand. I actually bought my set at Autozone, but it's the same pliers:

https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-60531.html

 

The 45-degree attachment was the most useful.

 

-Bob

 

PS: I'd invite others to share their more recent experience since it's been several years since I did this job.

Edited July 11, 2017 by SoloTSi97

[1-3-2-4]

I don't want to buy this if my AC compressor is still bad the pulley part won't turn

 

 

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[Brock Samson]

Are you sure it's the clutch itself making noise? A bad noise like that when the clutch is engaged may actually indicate a bearing problem in the compressor itself. Since the compressor only spins when the clutch is engaged, you'd only hear bearing noise when the clutch is engaged (unlike when this happens with an alternator or power steering pump, where the squeal is constant because those are always spinning).

 

Just a thought!

 

-Bob

 

I don't think its the compressor bearing, as it makes the noise when the clutch is engaged as well as disengaged, and the noise goes away for a while after I shoot some brake cleaner into the clutch assembly. Hope and prayers are part of it too since replacing the compressor is so much more involved.

 

That's the same snap ring plier set I already have, so I'll give it a shot before buying something beefier.

[Brock Samson]

I don't want to buy this if my AC compressor is still bad the pulley part won't turn

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah sounds like it could be the compressor is borked.

[SoloTSi97]

I don't want to buy this if my AC compressor is still bad the pulley part won't turn

 

The pulley won't turn at all? Is the clutch engaged or disengaged? Belt on or off?

 

With the belt on, you won't be able to turn the pulley by hand, because you're trying to turn the engine crankshaft by hand. And, assuming you're not built like The Rock, you aren't going to be able to do that.

 

With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED (so there's an air gap between the outer clutch plate and the pulley), the outer clutch plate should spin with some resistance. Here, you're actually turning the shaft inside the compressor, so you'll feel the resistance of that, but you should still be able to turn it by hand. If you can't, the compressor is seized. This can be for a variety of reasons, including low/no freon, not enough compressor oil in the freon, or a seized internal compressor bearing. Adding freon *might* fix the problem, but most likely the compressor is hosed.

 

With the belt OFF and the clutch DISENGAGED, the pulley should spin freely on the compressor shaft. You should feel little or no resistance to spinning the pulley. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, either the clutch is engaged or the bearing inside the pulley is seized (so you're turning the compressor shaft rather than just the pulley). If the pulley won't spin *at all*, then the bearing inside the pulley is seized AND the compressor is seized. Most likely, the pulley bearing has been seized for a while, which means the compressor has been run 100% of the time regardless of clutch engagement/disengagement, and the compressor got worn out as a result.

 

Hope that helps.

 

-Bob

Edited July 12, 2017 by SoloTSi97
Words are hard.

[1-3-2-4]

I know how the compressor works so I know about the clutch and yes when I say it wont turn it wont turn period I think I'm going to get the whole clutch thing and give it a shot if it works Im only out of like $80 the car has been sitting for like 2 years so it wasn't running

 

My understanding is these clutch kits come with a new pulley which is inside the hub part.. the description is not very good about it.

[Karenee]

FYI: I looked on the Autozone website and they sell just the a/c clutch for $34 which is a lot less than some of you found at the salvage yard.

The clutch on my 2005 Legacy GT started screeching then the a/c was blowing warm air. I haven't replaced it yet, but I think I will try to replace the clutch before tackling the whole compressor which is around $300 just for the part.

[1-3-2-4]

Speaking of AC Compressor.. the bracket under the AC compressor can the bolt be installed with those hard lines in the way? I can't for the life of me install the bolt that goes under it so my belt always has slack on it so it squeals.