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Issues with intake!


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I just intstalled 06' STi cat back on my car today and it ran 100% normal. Just put the ebay intake on and now the car won't idle, bog out under 1500 rpm. There was only 2 hose connectors on the intake, so on one of them, I just put a filter on it. Anyone know what is wrong?
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Everyone has seen these things on ebay. The $20 ebay intakes.

 

A thread on NASIOC (click here) shows that a 10hp and 10ft/lb of torque increase in the low-midrange RPMs can be had. So when one showed up for dirt cheap, I jumped on it, and went to install it.

 

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/641/141b6co.th.jpg

 

Ok, first of all, these are designed for "98-99" legacy's, from the titles on ebay. I haven't yet found a real difference between these newer engines and my 1996 2.2. There is one thing though about this intake. It has (2) vacuum lines coming off of it, and the stock intake has (3).

 

List of things you will need:

1/2" T connector

1/2" elbow with male threaded end

3" to 3" flexible coupling (rubber) (the metal clamps are included)

1' of 3/4" hose (*** I did not need this, but the insurance of having this hose is worth the extra $1.30)

Total cost of extra materials should be around $12.

 

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8264/img20140fa.th.jpg

 

First of all, here's the engine bay stock:

 

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3609/img20106qu.th.jpg

 

Take out the stock intake piping, and remove the MAF/top half of the airbox (you'll need to unpluge the MAF). There are 4 vacuum lines you will need to disconnect. Two on the back, one near the bends that lead to the intake manifold. Just disconnect it at the PCV junction. The last one is the biggest hose that connects near the MAF. Here is what it should now look like:

 

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3272/img20116ce.th.jpg

 

Next I did a test fit to see how everything would bolt together. I could tell that some pushing and shoving would be needed until the rubber couplers were in the right position for the tubing to go in correctly.

 

The 3" to 3" couple is too larg for both the intake piping and the MAF pipe. You should notice this immediately, however, because of its soft rubber, it will contract down and around each pipe with no problem. You will need to drill a 1/2" hole in the middle of the coupler. Use small drill bits leading up to the 1/2" bit. The rubber is strange to work (it molds itself around the bit, make sure to work the bit in and out until you can get a round hole.

 

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6773/img20175og.th.jpg

 

Next insert the elbow so that the threaded end is out. Make sure it fits snug, and does not protrude too deeply into the tubing itself. (you can remove this now for an easier install later)

 

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/3451/img20189qf.th.jpg

 

Install the included blue vacuum lines where the PCV valve line you took off went (its a tight fit, since the included lines are 3/8" and all the stock are 1/2") Install the T where the two valve cover lines come up, and install another blue line on the T as well (another tight fit)

 

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/6092/img20152pa.th.jpg

 

Use the metal clamp that is on the end of your stock piping to clamp the blue coupler included with the kit to the intake manifold. The other larger metal clamp included with the kit should go around the larger diameter piping of the intake. Also connect the 3" coupler at the other end. I tried to keep this coupler as close to the edge of the piping as possible. Thread the white elbow into the 3/4" tubing for the Idle Air Bypass. It should thread in tightly.Then plug this into the hole you drilled. Attach the maf and clip it onto the filter box, then tighten down the coupler. Again, move the intake around until the fitment is right. Plug in the remaining blue vacuum lines to the intake, reset the ECU (pull negative battery cable, hold down brake for 15-25 seconds, reattach battery cable) and enjoy.

 

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/3308/img20191pq.th.jpg

 

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9297/img20201wz.th.jpg

 

So as for performance... A little louder than a simple snorkusectomy, and well, no real power improvement. I haven't reset the ECU yet though, so I will do that today and repost my results. If anything, its engine bling for cheap.

 

***Update: I reset the ECU after making this post, and let 'er rip. New impressions... Holy torque change batman. Where the car might bog down a little from a stop light, the car doesn't bog, even on a rough shift it'll add a kick of acceleration. There is some better get up and go between 2600 and 4000 rpms. Now the improved acceleration is only slight, but it is a perceptable change for the better.

 

Sound clip here: http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=8F437CAB-CD17-4879-B519-431FCD465733

 

EDIT: Update 2007- check the welds on your bungs to make sure they are still intact upon receipt of your intake and you should probably check everytime you do a new air filter. Mine has started to seperate, I plan to patch it up with some JB weld/quick steel. No biggie, but something to check for.

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