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strengthening the trans


KurtP

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I havnt taken 6spd off the list, but id rather not do the swap. Id rather beef up the one I have slightly. Seems like the only option are PPG gears, which arent going to happen because of the absolutely absurd price you have to pay for them.

 

Are those the only options?

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DS1 was the problem with MFactory gearsets. Apparently, they were building them incorrectly and causing failures. The gears were OK, but not stronger than PPG and the "pro" set was almost the same price.

 

Albins stuff is WAY too expensive. About the same, or a little more, than PPG but the long-term reliability just isn't there. PPG's are pretty tried-and-true.

 

That said, a built PPG 5MT will cost a bit less at the end of the day than a 6MT swap. The choice is kind of up to you, and what you really want out of the car.

 

IIRC, last I heard PPG's price had dropped. You might want to call and get a quote. They USED to be super expensive, but I think the price dropped quite a bit recently.

 

Your only real options are PPG or 6MT. One isn't better than the other, though. It's all what works best for your application.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I've heard mention of Kaaz gearsets as well. From what I've read we've got the STi V.6 standard gearsets in our 5mt's. So, RA's are a *slight* upgrade for us, but not much of one. Also, cryo treating is another option, but without *certain* (but what is) improvements. I still think the 6mt is the only real option to go with. That's what I'm saving my pennies for.
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can anyone substantiate this ^?

 

Im going to fire off an email to Rallispec and see what they say. I dont need to hold a ton more than what the stockers can...ie the 700 PPG's or the STI tranny. if the stockers are rated to 450 going up to 550 would give me a healthy margin.

 

Im just at the point here, that in order to get my 10cm hotside to really shine and get steaming i need to push up to 23-24psi all the way out to redline, but thats going to put me up to 400-415 wtq.

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FWIW, the local shop here is sending out a stock gearset from a different car to get Cryo treated. I asked the mechanic how much stronger they would be afterward, but he said he couldn't say for sure.

 

I can tell you from a VERY reputable source.

 

"RA gearset failures are about the same between cryo-treated and not..."

 

From an engineering standpoint, post-manufacture cryo-treatment doesn't do NEARLY what it would if it were an integral part of the manufacturing process.

 

RA gears aren't worth the investment, this I will tell you flat out.

 

I stand firm by my belief that your best option is a 6MT or PPG's. If you look at flat-out-cost, they both come up about the same.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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One thing to consider is with going to PPG, you're not forced to play parts tag in doing a 5mt-6mt conversion. It's been done plenty, for sure. To me it would just be tougher to round up the individual parts needed as compared to buying a gearset.
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The problem I have with upgrading the 5mt gear set is that I and several others on the site have had their 5th gear fail for no good explainable reason. Can you imagine replacing 1-4 and having the remaining OEM gear fail on you? F that.

 

Can you even get a PPG 5th gear? And if you could would it be worth when you could swap to a 6mt. Probably not IMO.

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in the end, a diy 6spd swap will cost about the same as a prof installed full ppg gearset in a 5mt. i think you are better off with the 6mt swap along with a r180 rear. the stock r160 isnt the greatest thing in the world either. remember that your rear diff also has to support your power output as well.
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All good input. Im not worried about blowing diffs or breaking axles. Im not a drag racer and I use a low boost map if Im track driving the car. I just need the gear set to be able to hold higher tq on the street, and only when i need it at that. Plus, Im not taking the car any higher on the turbo than I have already. Whats on it is it.

 

the other option I have thought about is if I pull the motor to do pistons, doing a 2.35 destroker with a longer rod length. This would drop my peak tq about 30-40ft/lbs but give me better tq up top, essentially leveling it out. It would give me the motor strength to run 24-25psi without issue, but keep the max tq outpout closer to what the gearbox can tolerate.

 

Not sure what the final answer is going to be. I have a shop working a lead on a 6spd for me, and Im discussing options and type of driving with Rallispec. the 6spd swap is expensive, involved and time consuming, but its better than ppg's. I just dont need the full capabilities these packages offer, so spending 5 grand just doesnt seem worth it.

 

time will tell.

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Im just at the point here, that in order to get my 10cm hotside to really shine and get steaming i need to push up to 23-24psi all the way out to redline, but thats going to put me up to 400-415 wtq.

 

Are you familiar with something on a turbo compressor map called a "choke line?"

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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I already made a lt more power than you thought with the turbo, I don't think doing it again is going to stop the doubt.

 

Ultimately how high I turn it up will depend if I pull the motor and trans this winter

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I already made a lt more power than you thought with the turbo, I don't think doing it again is going to stop the doubt.

 

Ultimately how high I turn it up will depend if I pull the motor and trans this winter

 

http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=1.86&pr3=2.65&pr4=2.65&pr5=2.65&pr6=2.65&pr7=2.65&airflow0=41&airflow1=132&airflow2=261&airflow3=417&airflow4=515&airflow5=583&airflow6=637&airflow7=662&product_id=91

 

As long as your 18G flows like a big 20G and you don't make the rest of your setup too efficient or high-revving, then yes you won't burn out your turbo too quickly. In that event, you will be correct. Which would be good because I don't see the 10cm billet 18G on the Blouch site anymore, so getting another one would be a special order. Of course if their billet 18G flowed like a 20G, then why would they call it an 18G...

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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These are the same things you said and the same compressor maps you posted when this turbo went on the car.

 

And yet, with the temperature shift in favor of my BNR turbo by 40 degrees or so, I made over 50 more wheel hp with the Blouch, and the tq curve was only about 50rpm behind it, despite tapering the boost down to 18psi to keep the clutch from slipping(the BNR went 19-20 to ~7k). I could easily go 21psi to 7500. If you want to start putting some money down on what this turbo is capable of, Im more than willing to bet. Ill even let you chose the local shop.

 

Maybe all that BS doesnt add up to what you think it does? :confused:

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