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4EAT, no AWD.


TbirdMan

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The AWD on my 99 leg GT doesn't seem to work. I pulled the front wheels onto grass, pulled the handbrake and gassed it and the front wheels spun. what besides a fried clutch pack could this be? if the solenoid failed would it default to 50/50 or 90/10? the rear axles looked fine, and the driveshaft didn't look out of order.
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The AWD isn't locked solid on these cars, so pulling the ebrake would make the front wheel(s) spin. Your AWD is probably fine, I think a light would illuminate on the dash if your AWD wasn't functional. Try doing some donuts on wet grass and see if the back end kicks out.
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hmm, ill see, it seems like the front wheels spun alot more then they should. and pulling out of a street turning i heard significant tire squealing form the inside wheel, it just seemed like the rear should have engaged at that point. I have a '95 L 1.8 with a 4eat, and even on ice i get very little slipping. granted it has alot less HP.
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do you mean the FWD fuse holder that is supposed to be empty? or is there a separate AWD fuse, i thought the TCU handled the AWD functions. also it isn't just slipping, i goosed it on a slight hill with gravel today, it practically did a burnout, i could smell tire smoke.
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do you mean the FWD fuse holder that is supposed to be empty? or is there a separate AWD fuse, i thought the TCU handled the AWD functions. also it isn't just slipping, i goosed it on a slight hill with gravel today, it practically did a burnout, i could smell tire smoke.

 

Yes yes yes that's what it's called:lol:

 

Maybe next step would be to raise the car off the ground and see which wheels spin when it's in drive. Although, all 4 might spin when it's off the ground but if the clutch pack is shot, it won't mean much when the car is on the ground.

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Do a brake stand, the front brakes apply twice the force of the rear brakes, thus on wet grass the rear tires should spin first

 

not on these cars, the 4EAT is solid FWD with no center diff, if it detects slip it transmits power via the transfer clutch to the rear. you could disconnect the rear driveshaft and, assuming you plugged the output to keep the fluid in, it would be straight FWD.

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Ok, what would the normal way a dealer would diagnose no AWD? cause my dealer just took my car to an empty part of the lot and turned in a circle, came back and told me "It seems like it's working". which is TOTAL BS. I have confermed that the rear wheels have SOME connection to the transmission with the wheels off the ground, so it's not the dreaded "broken clutch hub" I have heard of, but I can easily stop the rear wheels with the handbrake barely catching. I guess that conferms the clutch pack or something in the rear houseing. Ill have to look into opening her up soon.
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  • 8 months later...
wow...so, i finally got around to digging back into the trans..wish i had taken a closer look at the valve when i was in there last time. seems the previous owner had stuck a dime, yes a dime, in the port between the valve and the rear housing. My only guess is he wanted true FWD rather than the 90/10 defult the fuse gives you? I only hope everything else was getting enough lubrication.
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