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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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Getting the ignition coil back onto the #4 plug was a giant pain! After 2 or 3 dozen unsuccessful attempt at getting the coil boot onto the spark plug, I finally put a jack under the front of the trans, and raised the engine about 1/2". The coil boot went on the spark plug at the 1st try after that! Amazing what a difference that 1/2" made.
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  • 1 month later...
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I took a look at the coils from under the car today while changing my oil and figure try to do the SP change without taking out the airbox and battery. I started to get the driver front bolt off, but with my large hands (Im a b-ball player and can palm a ball ;) ), I couldnt get the coil pack off the plug,..these dont snap on, so arent they suppossed to fall right off? Was everyone able to get the coil pack off using their fingers as I am afraid to use needle nose pliers on these.. There is only 1 bolt per pack too right? I got stumped at this, so I will try it next weekend.

 

Also, I used a rubber hose big enough to fit inside my socket to help unscrew it. I may got to Sears next week and but a 3/8s finger-type socket adapter to wrench it off.

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Finished mine today and the rear coilpacks are hard to get back IN over the plugs. The trick I found out was to disconnect the wire harness going the the packs as it makes adjusting them much easier,..Also, I could only get a torque wrench on the front 2. Im sure if I had the in2 wrench, it would have been easier,..

 

I noticed too that the rear driver side coil pack bolt came out all corroded. I wonder if the dealer removed and didnt tighten it down or forgot when I went to them for an idling problem last year. They ended up changing the fuel injector and my problem went a way. In any case, my car pulls much harder and with much more response which has me thinking if this may have been a problem.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Replaced plugs yesterday and the tips given in above posts about disconnecting the wire harness and rotating the coil packs to remove them helped out. Only real problem was getting the boot back onto the spark plug on the driver's side rear. I was almost to the point of jacking up the engine a bit to give the boot a straighter shot in at the plug top but finally got it to slip on with some guidance with my long fingers. Unfortunately those fingers are attached to big hands and it's tight working down in there but no major battle scars, just a few minor scrapes.
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Wow. Killer write up. I changed the plugs on my 98 Outback, and holy sh!t that sucked. It almost would've been easier to pull the motor out! There is absolutely no room in there.

 

I just threw a CEL for two misfiring cylinders. I'm assuming it's time to change the plugs? 38k miles and Stage 2+.

 

What plugs and what temp does everybody recommend???

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Wow. Killer write up. I changed the plugs on my 98 Outback, and holy sh!t that sucked. It almost would've been easier to pull the motor out! There is absolutely no room in there.

 

I just threw a CEL for two misfiring cylinders. I'm assuming it's time to change the plugs? 38k miles and Stage 2+.

 

What plugs and what temp does everybody recommend???

 

That's what Subibucks are for. I do a lot of maintenance, but plugs and the timing belt are going to the dealer.

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I just threw a CEL for two misfiring cylinders. I'm assuming it's time to change the plugs? 38k miles and Stage 2+.

 

What plugs and what temp does everybody recommend???

 

If your stage 2, then I recommend the OEM plugs, but go one step cooler.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Actually, the 1 step colder NGK plug that is most often used is LFR7AIX.

 

Changing plugs on a Subaru isn't a lot of fun, but I can usually get it done in about 45 minutes.

 

I leave the battery in, but usually take out the airbox. The rear coil packs can easily be extracted from the top if you detach the wiring plugs, pull the coil packs off the plugs, then rotate them 180*. They pull right out then. To get the rear plugs out, I use a spark plug socket with a 4" extension. Loosen the rear plugs till there is just a thread or two engaged and pull out the extension. Then stick a finger in the end of the spark plug socket and finish pulling out the plug. If you leave the extension in the socket on some cars there is not enough room to the frame rails to pull the whole assembly out. The front plugs are straightforward. Reinstall everything in reverse order. Remember that the black headed plugs go to the rear coil packs and the white headed plugs go to the front coil packs.

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When you disconnect the harness plugs from the coil packs to remove them you have to keep track of which plug goes to which coil pack for re-installation. They are color coded. The plastic connectors for the front coil packs are white, the ones for the rear coil packs are black.
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The dealership recommends OEM plugs otherwise I will start misfiring, they say. I'm at 38k and I've been misfiring since 33k, I believe.

 

I'm Stage 2+... Is everybody happy with their colder plugs?

 

The dealership wants $17 per spark plug (OEM) and $135 labor...

 

It was a pain in the ass on my '98 Outback and I hear it's even harder on the LGT. Is it worth it?

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Just follow the tips that have been posted here and DIY. The 1 step colder NGK's are the way to go on a modded car. They are a bit cheaper and around $40 for all four. DIY and that's all you'll spend. It'll take you a couple hours the first time around, but it's usually a 35-45 minute job for me now.
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The dealership recommends OEM plugs otherwise I will start misfiring, they say. I'm at 38k and I've been misfiring since 33k, I believe.

 

I'm Stage 2+... Is everybody happy with their colder plugs?

 

The dealership wants $17 per spark plug (OEM) and $135 labor...

 

It was a pain in the ass on my '98 Outback and I hear it's even harder on the LGT. Is it worth it?

Just me $.02 (and I told a lot I dont know WTF im talking about) I would get the missfire fixed before I went introducing new issues into the mix.

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