Starting problem

[Baddog]

So I have an issue with starting the car. Sometimes when you turn the key to start the car it does nothing. Makes a little click and that's it. Doesn't crank or anything.

 

If I take the key out and put it back in and turn it, it usually fires right up. What could be causing this?

[rshaw123]

check all of your grounds and clean your terminals. If this doesn't work, have your battery and alternator checked at your local parts store

[0Tyrael0]

check all of your grounds and clean your terminals. If this doesn't work, have your battery and alternator checked at your local parts store

 

I agree. Probably a loose/dirty wire or relay somewhere. I had a similar problem with my lincoln and it was a loose ground wire.

[rshaw123]

Yeah I had this problem back when I first bought my car, but I still had a warranty so I brought it back 5 times and every time I brought it back, the dealer would just throw parts at it. I got a new starter, alternator, battery, and a few miscellaneous fuses because he had no idea what he was doing.

[johnegg]

So I have an issue with starting the car. Sometimes when you turn the key to start the car it does nothing. Makes a little click and that's it. Doesn't crank or anything.

 

If I take the key out and put it back in and turn it, it usually fires right up. What could be causing this?

 

so i assume you are driving the 96 legacy listed in your info......

 

there are several possible cause, the first, bad battery connections, check them all. second, bad contacts in the starter solenoid. about 12$ form the dealer but pretty easy to do.

 

but my favorite and the one that fixed my 97 outback wagon is; you need to add a relay to the starter circuit. the electricity flowing through the starter ignition / circuit is not strong enough to engage the starter contacts in the starter solenoid. if you add a rely, a generic 20 amp relay form autozone will do , if you add a relay it will resolve the issuie.

 

 

dinner time, gotta go.

[johnegg]

so i assume you are driving the 96 legacy listed in your info......

 

there are several possible cause, the first, bad battery connections, check them all. second, bad contacts in the starter solenoid. about 12$ form the dealer but pretty easy to do.

 

but my favorite and the one that fixed my 97 outback wagon is; you need to add a relay to the starter circuit. the electricity flowing through the starter ignition / circuit is not strong enough to engage the starter contacts in the starter solenoid. if you add a rely, a generic 20 amp relay form autozone will do , if you add a relay it will resolve the issuie.

 

 

dinner time, gotta go.

 

ok, add a starter relay.

 

the juice flows from the ignition key switch straight to the starter solenoid, the small wire on the starter, but it's not strong enough to engage the solenoid. so you disconnect the small wire from the starter and connect it to a generic relay, 20 amp lights relay will do. then you feed the relay with a fused hot feed directly from the battery to the relay. connect a jumper from the relay to the spade connector on the starter solenoid and finally, add a ground wire to the relay. you're done.

 

when you turn the key, the juice form the ignition keyswitch energizes the relay. it switches on the feed form the battery and sends it to the starter.

the starter kicks in and the car starts.

 

relays are cheap, 5$ maybe, a fused feed wire is about the same and some wire and crimp on wire connectors are a few dollars.

 

questions?

[rshaw123]

If you take the car to a auto parts store that has the testers, they can test all of this and tell you if something isnt working right before you start tearing things apart

[ehsnils]

Some inhibitor switch like neutral/park or clutch is messing up things unless the ignition lock is going bad.

 

But a relay may help.

[johnegg]

if it is clicking, it is not the inhibitor switch.

[vangster]

my legacy 2.5 gt is not working.. the starter wont work n it over heats when i try to start it..

[broknindarkagain]

The car overheats when you try and start it?

 

Thats not quite possible

[Baddog]

Haha wow this is oldddddd. Back when I was still learning.

 

Replace the starter. Your temperature gauge must be fubar.

[johnegg]

more info on the starter relay below. this write up is for older subarus but it works just as well for the first and second gen legacys we drive. i don't know about the third gens.

 

 

There are currently several active posts on starter engagement problems.

I thought this may be of interest. (Please note, this article only refers to 1989 and earlier Subarus, newer Loyales MTs may have a clutch interrupt switch, see ** below)

 

First to dispel info given in reference to any relays involved.

There are none, repeat no relays come on a factory equipped car. As will be seen it is a reliable fix to add one, but there is no relay used for starter engagement.

 

The ignition switch, when in the start position, feeds battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid unless the vehicle has an automatic transmission. In this case, there is an inhibitor switch in the console which only allows the control voltage to reach the starter solenoid in the park or neutral position. Just a switch no relay.

(Note: Some may argue the starter solenoid is a relay, in an operational sense they are correct, in semantics -- I will refer to it as the factory does.)

 

**Newer Loyales may have a clutch pedal switch. This switch located up under the dash in the path of the pedal swing arm, is depressed and thus in a "closed" position, when the clutch pedal is in a fully depressed state.

 

If when you turn the ignition switch to the start position the starter fails to engage -

A) It is possible that a battery cable or it's connection is dirty, loose, or corroded - thus creating high resistance.

Here is a quick test.

Hold the ignition in the start position for five seconds. Open the hood and place your hand on all battery connections and cable ends to feel for a warm connection. IF the starter has engaged and there is some current passing through a connection with high resistance - heat will be generated. Green colored or other "odd looking" connections are always suspects.

B) It is possible that the starter solenoid internal contacts have burned and are not making full contact. While holding the ignition switch in the start position a sharp "rap" on the solenoid may jar the contacts into a closed position allowing the starter to engage.

If this is the case you can elect to repair/replace the contacts or replace the solenoid/starter.

C) If the above tests prove unsatisfactory, it is likely the ignition switch itself has problems. The starter solenoid needs a fair amount of current to energize. This puts the contacts in the ignition switch under duress. To test this, connect a "jumper" wire from the positive battery terminal to the small spade connector located on the starter solenoid. One will have to remove the factory connector before "jumping" the solenoid.

(Please make sure car is in neutral or Park before doing this test)

If the jumper wire allows the starter to engage, there are several fixes that can be employed.

 

1) Replace ignition switch - labor and $$ intensive, beyond the scope of this article.

 

2) Install a "Never Fail" button/ switch. This button (momentary switch) is wired to feed the control voltage to the starter solenoid, thus bypassing the ignition switch. A "make shift" solution at best. It will work and is a simple matter of wiring.

to wit:

a) Get a 10 amp momentary switch from the source of your choosing.

Find a suitable mounting point for said switch. Most dashes have several "blanks" to choose from, or mount it under the dash as a secret switch.

b) you will need a "feed voltage source".

You could

i) probe your fuse panel for an ignition switched "hot fuse".

ii) run a fused connection directly to the battery

iii) place a tap on the main ignition feed connector under the steering col. Since you will be running this voltage to the starter and through the bulkhead (firewall) a fused source should be used.

This "feeder" is connected to one side of the procured switch.

c) The other side of the switch is wired to the small spade connector on the starter solenoid. The proper method is to splice solder the wire to the existing wire, but some may stuff it under the female connector and slide the spade back in place. Please use a grommet or other form of protection when passing the wire through the bulkhead.

 

These connection methods will allow the use of the normal ignition switch start position but when it fails the "Never Fail" button is used. If you choose to simply put a female spade connector on this wire and plug it on to the starter solenoid, the "Never Fail" will be the only way to get the car to start.

 

3) The best method, in my admittedly feeble mind, is the addition

of a "start relay". This relay supplements the ignition switch and requires no "Never Fail" folderol (like in a case where some one borrows the car and you forget to tell them about the "Never Fail")

The relay is controlled by the ignition switch and it in turn feeds the current necessary for starter solenoid engagement.

An "auxiliary lighting" relay is a good choice, but any 12Vdc 10 amp relay will suffice. I mount mine under the hood and in the general location of the starter. This allows use of the factory female connector and simplifies getting a fused battery feed voltage.

 

[subaru.20]

lol what overheats ???

 

 

my legacy 2.5 gt is not working.. the starter wont work n it over heats when i try to start it..

[subaru.20]

is your ignition lock cylinder loose ? next time if the car does not start , hold the key on the "run" position and try moving the key up/down/side to side . your ignition switch could also be the problem .

 

 

So I have an issue with starting the car. Sometimes when you turn the key to start the car it does nothing. Makes a little click and that's it. Doesn't crank or anything.

 

If I take the key out and put it back in and turn it, it usually fires right up. What could be causing this?

Ignition Lock Cylinder

[Pts2.2turbo]

I am currently dealing with the same starting issue on my 94' 2.2 legacy. I have a spal 30 amp relay laying around and was curious if i could use that instead and if so how would i wire it in since there is no ground wire only 4 wires coming off the relay . Battery, Fan positive, ignition, and sending unit . Thanks for the help i posted a pic of relay below.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/images/P/08481lg.jpg

[Pts2.2turbo]

can i use a 30 amp fan relay ? the wires are hard wired into the relay though ? It has 4 wires coming off the relay a battery wire, ignition, fan positive, and sending unit

[johnegg]

i don't know.

 

most relays have 2 sides. one side has a power in put from the battery, fused, and an out put to what ever you want to activate. in this case the starter solenoid.

 

the other side has an input (the existing small wire on the starter which comes from the ignition switch) which triggers the internal relay (to send battery power to the starter solenoid) and finally a ground.

 

i don't know what the ''sending unit '' on your relay means. you could test it with a meter to see. my guess is you can use it, you just have to figure out which wire goes where.

 

Battery, Fan positive, ignition, and sending unit .

 

ignition goes to the existing small wire on the starter (disconnect it from the starter, of course)

fan positive goes to starter solenoid ???????? (where the small wire was removed)

battery goes to battery, make sure it is fused.

sending unit goes to ground ??????????????????

 

just a guess. you really should test it before you install it.

[thaibuddie]

Hello, I am going to attempt the "starter relay" fix as described above. Please advise if my wiring diagram in the image below is correct:

 

Also note that the relay is rated at 40amp - is this a problem? I plan to fuse at 10amps?

 

THANKS?

 

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp313/thaibuddie/th_STARTERRELAY.jpg

[BreezeV]

Hi everyone. I drive a 1998 Legacy Outback. I am having similar starting issues as described in this thread and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction before I have to spend money to have someone look at it.

 

My Ignition was loose and for a long time I got by with jiggling it up and down or even pumping the clutch. Sometimes it took MANY tries but would eventually start. Finally I decided to buy a new ignition switch for it.

 

After the new ignition was in, my car started up immediately several times. Yay - problem solved. Nope. Started it - went to the gas station - came out - wouldn't start. Removed the Starter/Solenoid today, took it in to have it tested - they say there is no problem with it. Battery is 2 months old. What the heck? Anyone else having this same issue? I appreciate any help you can give me. Money is tight and parts for these cars as well as labor is expensive. I am hoping it is something I don't have to take it to a mechanic for. Does this sound like I could use a relay as described on page one?

[johnegg]

"starter relay" fix as described above. Please advise if my wiring diagram in the image below is correct:

 

Also note that the relay is rated at 40amp - is this a problem? I plan to fuse at 10amps?

the relay i used had a wiring diagram that came with it so thast made it easier. i can not , do not know how to rtead the info on the relay. sorry. but as long as the power from the battery is fused you shouldn't hurt any thing.

 

half of the circuit, the wire you pulled from the starter solenoid, and the ground are used to activate the other half. there should be a load, a coil, on those 2 terminals (a lot of resistance, ohms). the other 2 terminals should be open, connected to nothing, until you turn the key and then they connect power from the battery to the starter solenoid. i hope this helps.

 

the 40 amp rating isn't an issue. the 10 amp fuse should be fine.

 

1998 Legacy Outback. I am having similar starting issues as described in this thread

the first ting to check ar the wire connections at the battery and the battery terminalks. are they dirty, loose, corroded . it is surprising how many folks with starting issues say the terminals are clean and tight only to report back later they found the problem, loose wire.

 

have you tried holding the key in the start position for a bit when it will not start? if some juice is flowing but not enough, the connection may heat up and improve. just a thought. i wouldn't hold it in start for an extended period.

 

if your problem is caused by not enough juice getting to the starter solenoid through the ignition circuit, then yes, the relay would probably help. but there are some test you can do before you jump to the relay.

 

one test, when the car will not start, leave the key on and use a jumper wire to connect power from the battery +terminal to the small wire connector on the starter solenoid. if the car starts, then the relay will help. KEEP AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS.

 

if pumping the clutch tends to help, then the issue may be with the safety switch on the clutch pedal. different issue. relay will not help.

 

good luck

[BreezeV]

Johnegg,

 

A friend came by and looked at it - i was telling him what was being said in this thread. He said he would test to see if a relay would work. He performed the test you listed..........."one test, when the car will not start, leave the key on and use a jumper wire to connect power from the battery +terminal to the small wire connector on the starter solenoid. if the car starts, then the relay will help."

 

It does start. Turns out the wire that connects to the starter is bad - there is NO juice in that connection.

 

He is just going to hook me up with a push button start.

 

I wouldn't even have known where to begin without this thread.

 

Thank you so much!

[stevenva]

My car did the same thing 2 years ago. Turn the key and it would click and not crank. Sometimes it would start. Eventually it failed completly. I properly fixed it myself for $10 without rigging extra relays ect... You need to replace the 2 copper starter solenoid contacts. It's quite easy.

• Remove starter
  
• Remove back cover from solenoid
  
• Plunger ring and spring will slide out
  
• Replace the 2 copper contacts inside the solenoid by un-bolting them from the sides
  
• Wire brush copper plunger ring
  
• Reassemble and replace
  

It will be good for another 100,00 miles. I had a writeup with photos on this forum a couple years ago. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rebuild-your-starter-155382.html?t=155382&highlight=rebuild+starter

It's easy

[thaibuddie]

It's not my starter solenoid (as I understand it) since when it does not start there is no 'click' and if I jump a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid it starts no problem.

 

I believe I connected the "starter relay" fix correctly (anyone review my previous post and advise if this is correct) but it did not resolve the issue.

 

I resolved with the "no fail" option of momentary contact button within the cab to deliver battery voltage to the starter solenoid (simply because I do not have time to troubleshoot - my kids have to get to school!).

 

I did poke around enough to jump the clutch inhibitor to no avail, so now I would suspect the ignition switch itself? (as stated I did not take the time to test further as would be appropriate to diagnose)

 

I am happy with the "no fail" option as I live in a low-crime area, but would be interested in any additional feedback!

 

Thanks all, Ti

[johnegg]

i guess the one test we forgot to cover is the one where a test light is attached to the ''small wire on the starter solenoid from the ignition'' and then turning the key to start. if the test light comes on then the ignition circuit is complete and active.

 

if the test light does not come on then there really is a break in the ignition circuit and the relay will not help. neither will starter contacts for that matter..

 

as for the starter contacts, yes they often, usually, almost always fix the problem of not enough juice getting to the solenoid. but not everyone is capable of removing the starter, opening the solenoid and replacing the contacts. not to mention getting back together so it works. and in my opinion the relay often, apparently not always, fixes the problem. and it is easier, and quicker. price is probably the same if you are doing the work yourself.

 

i did the relay fix on a 97 obw at 100k miles and drove it for another 40k miles until i sold it. the starter never failed to start. the relay never failed to work. the engine started every time for 40k miles.

 

i don't know if there has ever been a case of new contacts not fixing the problem, i don't remember any. i do know that there have been cases where a new starter did not correct the issue. and this relay fix has been used on subarus since the cars of the 80s. systems get old, contacts wear, connections age, things get dirty and electricity does not flow as well. if this were not the case, we would never need to replace our plug wires.