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Is there a CAI or SRI in existence that is safe and compatible with an AP to use on an LGT? Also people are saying Cobbs intake is ok to use with Cobb maps but I dont see where it even says that anywhere. I just bought an SPT intake with heat shield and I am now selling it due to terrible reviews, negative posts/comments on every single forum I come across especially Cobbs. What it comes down to is I am one of those idiots that likes the WHOOOOSH and I cant get that with the factory intake. And I am not removing the silencer also due to apparent negative affects on the car. I dont want to cause ANY harm I just want a decent intake that wont suck in air that is hotter than the stock setup that I can find an OTS map for. Any suggestions ???
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I've tried both the AEM and the K&N Typhoon and both times went back to the stock system (with silencer but also with K&N panel filter). The AEM had an okay not overly annoying whoosh, but I had water issues with the filter. The K&N was a really nice intake, but it was too loud inside the car when you didn't want it to be.

 

I think I've spent enough money testing intakes now, especially considering I go OCD on the maf scaling aspect for each and waste a lot of gas.

 

If I get the urge, the only other one I have had interest in is the Cobb with the Cobb Box. Hopefully I've learned my lesson though and can just enjoy my car with the stock intake.

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So the Whoooosh is more important than engine health/life? Or do you want one person outta 100 to say "install this CAI"?

 

Listen to the masses...

 

...or you can enjoy the car the way YOU want to. I'm 'one of those idiots' too I guess, but at the end of the day...I've had a Cobb SF intake with box and GFB hybrid BOV since 15k miles (now at 70k) and loved it every day of my life.

 

Most will say the SPT intake is a bad idea, and for the most part it is. The only advantage is it won't raise any eyebrows at a dealership. The research is there saying it isn't good for your car, but I don't know of one instance where it blew something up. The cobb intake is just as bad in terms of temperatures without the box.

 

Also, if you're running cobb OTS maps, the Cobb SF intake IS approved for use with them...you can find the info yourself in the map notes for the stage 1 or stage 2 map you're running.... an excerpt is below.

 

Additional Notes:

For use with Legacy 2.5 GT MT or Outback XT MT. Additional modifications such an

underdrive pulley or panel filter are still within the acceptable parameters of this

calibration. MUST USE FACTORY INTAKE SYSTEM ONLY OR COBB TUNING SF INTAKE. NO OTHER

AFTERMARKET INTAKES ARE CERTIFIED COMPATIBLE WITH THIS CALIBRATION. Best if used with

91 and 92 octane. If any detonation is present even when using 91 octane, try using

octane booster or flashing a Stage2 ACN91 MTv118 base map. Keep in mind Subaru

recommends 93 octane for even a STOCK STi.

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Tuners such as Infamous1 have the MAF scaling for various intakes, and can provide you with an appropriate map for a small charge (AP map or OpenSource). I must be "one of those idiots" as well since I like to hear the sound of my turbo whoosh and my BPV when I want to. I have the AEM CAI which AFAIK is the only true CAI available for the LGT. Pretty happy with it.
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i have cobb sf system. nice sound of spool. i have an accesport and have monitored engine temps with the cobb intake via the A-port.i wanted to do a write up but havent rly had the time. I have no data with stock intake system, but what i did was compare the Cobb SF intake with vs without the box. What I found is as follows:

 

Either setup is fine at speed. The box brought the intake temp down slightly but no noticable difference while driving (mabye 5 degrees(ish) on a 75 degree fall day). However when you stop (traffic light, jam, etc) engine temps rise significantly as heatsoak becomes a factor. In such situations, the box will give a longer time window till when the intake temp rises significantly from engine heat. Not that this will necessarily harm the car, but it will definitely be getting less dense air (how this affects performance, realistically, I will not even try to pretend to know). Eventually the box can only do so much at a standstill and the difference in intake temps with vs without the box will be trivial at best after a long while of sitting in traffic. I would say for a good 10-15 mins though, it will make a noticable difference.

 

I now drive with the box on (perhaps solely from placebo affect) but do believe that on average it will keep temps down both while moving (to a lesser extent) and while at a standstill (the difference is a little more noticeable).

 

In closing, my data was not recorded but merely derived from monitoring the 2 different scenarios over a course of a couple weeks of driving in end of summer/ beginning of fall NY weather. There was a difference on some days, none on others... because of that there is a speculation bias in my findings. If i was city driving mostly, i would feel more inclined to get the box as it is more noticeable from preventing heatsoak while at a standstill rather than at speed. If my notes do nothing more than state the obvious, then my apologies, however at the moment I cannot fall asleep and figured this would be a useful way to spend my time...

 

Also, lets not be ignorant here.... i think its pretty apparent that the only reason that a Cobb intake will work with a Cobb map (or so we are told through certain said publications) is perhaps because sales are the bottom line. ((keep in mind that it has been written in many places by many ppl that SPT intakes are hard to tune, for what it is worth)).

 

And, the Stock box (with aftermarket drop in flilter) has been proven to be adequate untill 325whpish or so is reached, then other intake options may be necessary... not that im there yet... ive just read that

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