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Quad Brake Light Mod: Brake/Tail Lights In Trunk Lid


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http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Brake-Light-LED/Red-LED/V-LEDS-PLATINUM-RED-7-p9448921.html

 

Did this mod with those bad boys... its so bright that the light output is still brighter than stock even with my taillights tinted.

 

PS. It looks so much better with all the brake lights working.

 

The bulbs listed above also work without any further modification, its just plug and play.

 

Digging up an old thread...

 

 

I just did this mod with those leds. Also replaced the brake lights with them. Had to use some silicone glue to get the brake lights to hold in place, though.

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  • 7 months later...
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Nice. Next you need a lower grille like mine. [ATTACH]151601[/ATTACH] Also, it looks like you did a much better job dipping your rear emblem than I did.
Thanks, yep. I bought some mesh (honeycomb plastic, perforated powdercoated black metal) and will be experimenting with them to make one that fits. Might cut or notch the center 'wing' down there to fit the mesh in front of it or in place of it.

The front and rear emblems are vinyl wrapped after my plastidip became a casualty of a a few washes and details.

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The front and rear emblems are vinyl wrapped after my plastidip became a casualty of a a few washes and details.

 

My front emblem came out fine, the rear one looks like heck. Might have to go the vinyl route eventually.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Bump. Just did part of this as I only had a few minutes and it's not all the way hooked up yet. I temporarily hooked them up to test the temperature with the stock halogen bulbs when the brake lights are on. Had my son hold the brake pedal for about 3 minutes with the trunk open and the lens and housing didn't head up at all, ambient temp outside was about 62. Gonna finish this up and try running the stock bulbs until I get LEDs. Wish me luck. LOL!!

 

 

It was totally easy. Took me about 15 minutes to add the pins to the connectors. Trimming the 2 perpendicular and 1 parallel tabs on the pins was simple with a small set of dikes and a needle nose plyer. Hopefully have some time this week to finish up connecting the power.

 

Here are a couple pics.

uploadfromtaptalk1386019633135.thumb.jpg.8459686cbaf11cf04e288e1c529592cf.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1386019668474.thumb.jpg.9a9ab21f914a5971796ec1902f41ef3f.jpg

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Its an awesome mod, you'll love it GTEASER.

Should be like this from the factory.

 

If you ever go LEDs, splice the BLACK wire with a resistor under here to get rid of the Christmas show on the dash. You might be able to get away with just one resistor if you get stronger LEDs like your turn signals.

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Does anyone know where I can get a connector that fits this plug?

 

I would like to keep the install very clean and I will never add a spoiler with a 3rd brake light, so I might as well keep it plug and play if I can.

 

connector.jpg.14bd47a5d2766486049546bd0a6b1d80.jpg

 

I suppose I can always change this out to a Molex or Metri-Pack connector or something like that.

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^^That's what I am hoping....to avoid resistors all around....so will definitely be going with higher powered units for the tail/brake lights.

 

You have a MY '12 like me, so you shouldn't have to add resistors, at least I didn't.

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^^Molex or Metri-Pack 150/280? What gauge wire did you use?

 

I used 18-gauge wire but I don't think molex pins will hold that size wire. Also, you only used the 12v + lead from this connector which will ground thru the negative wire on the 7443 socket/connector, right?

 

Sorry still a little new and tentative with the automotive wiring. :) Just don't want to mess things up.

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^^Molex or Metri-Pack 150/280? What gauge wire did you use?

 

I used 18-gauge wire but I don't think molex pins will hold that size wire. Also, you only used the 12v + lead from this connector which will ground thru the negative wire on the 7443 socket/connector, right?

 

Sorry still a little new and tentative with the automotive wiring. :) Just don't want to mess things up.

 

I used a Molex connector, but I used it to add a red LED strip light above the license plate where the trunk pull is. You can only see it when the brakes are applied. I did this before I did the quad-mod, so when I did the quad mod I just used a wire tap.

 

Molex pins should hold any wire between 22 and 18 awg. The trick is using the right crimping tool. If you're unsure, solder it first. And yes, you would only connect to the +12v side.

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Okay great!! And thanks!! I have a quality crimping tool that I bought specifically for the Molex pins. I used numerous Molex connectors when I did my Boost Gauge and LED dimmer install, and everything went smoothly, all connections were good, and everything functions perfectly.
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Fyi, when I did the quad-mod, I used one single wire going from one light to the other for a cleaner install. I then installed a jumper wire from there to the spoiler brake wire using wire taps. If you're going the connector route 18awg wire, then get connectors that will accept 18-14awg wires.

 

For what it's worth, something like this might even fit into the OEM connector (with some modification) using the metra connectors.

 

http://theelectricaldepot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_57&products_id=331

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Finished up this mod yesterday. Here are a few pics.

 

I am running the OEM halogen bulb and I don't believe there will be any issues with heat when the brake lights are on. I had my wife hold the brake pedal for 3 minutes continuously while the trunk was open so any heat rose directly upwards The red lense only got very slightly warm and the back of the housing by the bulb had no discernible temp increase. Ambient temp in the garage was low, maybe 45 or 50, but I will check this again when the daytime temps are higher. I will however switch over to LEDs for the "instant" on/off later, but at this point I can't justify that expendature.

 

Used a .110" connector with shrink tubing almost all the way down to the tip and it fits snugly on the OEM connector pin. No need to tap or splice the existing wires unless you have a spoiler installed.

uploadfromtaptalk1386557180890.thumb.jpg.0c5a050171eda6667c53b5a5565792cb.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1386557208541.jpg.f8dd0c9455a826050c3c1b0c36d91bbd.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1386557232337.jpg.24cb493715921a24b7b62c40f905c72f.jpg

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These are the exact same bulbs as are in the fender mounted tails and now they function the same as those. Same voltage as before, 12v, but 7443 bulbs use 2 separate filaments to accomplish the lighting for the tail lights which are 5W and the brake lights which are 21W. Each filament has a different resistance across it, producing a certain intensity of light, but the voltage is always the same, so no, no real decrease in life expectancy other than the fact that I am now using both filaments in the bulb instead of only one.
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  • 2 years later...

Hello everyone I recently purchase LED bulbs on Ebay for my 2013 Subaru Legacy. I replaced my OEM stock bulbs with 7443 LEDs. Changed four bulbs two in the truck lid and two in the truck. When I replaced them I noticed that my brake light and my traction control light kept coming up and the brake light started to blink. I was reading on the forum that other owners who also upgraded to LEDs had this same problem. They replaced their LEDs back to the OEM Halogen lights and everything was back to normal. I want to know if there is a way to keep you LEDs in your car with out having warning lights come on. If someone could shed some light on the subject I would really appreciate it.

 

RA :lol:

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Hello everyone I recently purchase LED bulbs on Ebay for my 2013 Subaru Legacy. I replaced my OEM stock bulbs with 7443 LEDs. Changed four bulbs two in the truck lid and two in the truck. When I replaced them I noticed that my brake light and my traction control light kept coming up and the brake light started to blink. I was reading on the forum that other owners who also upgraded to LEDs had this same problem. They replaced their LEDs back to the OEM Halogen lights and everything was back to normal. I want to know if there is a way to keep you LEDs in your car with out having warning lights come on. If someone could shed some light on the subject I would really appreciate it.

 

RA [emoji38]

Had this issue with Phillips drop in led. They were nice bulbs but didn't draw enough wattage and caused my AT Oil Temp warning to come on. Bought some led with higher wattage to be closer to incandescent draw. They're really nice and bright. Also got Amber ones from the same company that is as bright as incandescent signals during the day.

 

http://amzn.to/1QeF707

Brakes

 

http://amzn.to/1SNMOrT

Signals

 

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

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