Boulderguy Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Technically a "crow's foot" offset box wrench should be used but it's a PITA. I use a deep socket & lock some vise-grips around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 The first time i did it i used the all mighty gator grip to hold the socket and that didnt go too well. Ill try the vice grips next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 I have no other choice than to use an impact but i only use about 90psi so the gun doesnt torque it down tight at all. Ive never actually seen a pass through socket or other method. How do you guys do it? I don't use an impact wrench either, I'm paranoid about over torquing. I bought a new set of pass through ratchets when i first installed my springs. The nut is usually pretty tight, so here is my easy way of getting it off without a vise. Put the pass through on the nut, then stick the allen wrench in the middle. Then I use the ground to keep the allen from spinning, and then use my foot to press down on the pass through wrench. You could use your other foot to keep the bottom of the strut from wiggling. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/marky339/strutnut.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 check your pitch stop also to see if came loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 My creaking / popping was due to the endlinks. I have the MSI solid endlinks and while they appear to be a quality piece of work, they don't seem to work well with my setup. I have the Perrin 25mm front and rear sway bars and for some reason the MSI front endlinks do not play nice with the Perrin 25mm front sway. I think it has a lot to do with the angle at which the sway bar sits against the endlink. The stockers swivel/pivot to give you the most contact with the endlink while the MSI's don't. Maybe they work great with lighter bars, but it doesn't with the Perrin 25mm. The MSI rears however work perfectly, but I think thats mostly because the rear links don't swivel / pivot (if I remember correctly...) Has anyone with a 25mm front sway got solid front endlinks to work without creaking/popping? I have the same set up and my front make all kinds of noise. Im going to put the stock 21mm bar back on this weekend and see if it goes away. Then i will try to use a 22mm bar and see if it makes noise also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 ^^ That shoe is GREAT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wang Lung Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 I lowered my car about an inch, installed a FSB and Whiteline bushings all at the same time. Then I got an agressive allignment based on recommendation of my coilover manufacturer. My car popped subsequent to that. My installer told me it was the coilover spring loading up, I thought maybe it was endlinks, and I lived with it for almost two years. About 3 months ago I got new tires and a stock alignment. The popping went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nawoj Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 i'm confident the top bolt is tight, but i'll certainly check it again. interesting note: i don't recall seeing ANY washer, pyramid-shaped or otherwise, when i replaced the struts initially. also, the sound was there before the strut replacement. i'll double-check the torque of the top bolt, and go from there. you all RAWK for the suggestions and advice. Wang Lung, i got a factory alignment after i replaced the (oem) strut mount, and the pop was still there. not better or worse, but still there. ah well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 ^^ then you found your problem, missing pyramid washer. Not having that washer would have the same effect as having it upside down. The purpose of that part is to focus all the contact onto the narrow inner race of that bearing, not on the seals around it (which don't rotate). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nawoj Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 boy, do i feel sheepish... now then, where do i obtain these washers? your description makes sense, i hope this works! thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Dealer. Couple bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nawoj Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 woot! thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 boy, do i feel sheepish... now then, where do i obtain these washers? your description makes sense, i hope this works! thanks. Did the washers take care of the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nawoj Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 well, the answer is no. I disassembled the top hat "sandwich" to check for the washer, and it was in place and properly oriented. HOWEVER: I noticed a spring-end shaped impression in the hard rubber disc that the top spring end physically touches, leading me to believe it wasn't properly seated. I gave it a turn, re-assembled everything, and back outta the garage.....VOILA! Absolutely NO pop or clunk from lock-to-lock. My Leggy is back! Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wang Lung Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 well, the answer is no. I disassembled the top hat "sandwich" to check for the washer, and it was in place and properly oriented. HOWEVER: I noticed a spring-end shaped impression in the hard rubber disc that the top spring end physically touches, leading me to believe it wasn't properly seated. I gave it a turn, re-assembled everything, and back outta the garage.....VOILA! Absolutely NO pop or clunk from lock-to-lock. My Leggy is back! Thanks everyone! Thanks for the update. I'll have to pull my struts and hope its something that easy for me as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Figured out my suspension noise today! The front bushing on the lca was binding where it fits up into the frame. Squirted a bunch of lube all around the area and loosened the nut on the bolt that attaches the lca to the frame and no more noise. If the noise reappears I might try to squeeze thin washers between the frame attachment and the lca bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Figured out my suspension noise today! The front bushing on the lca was binding where it fits up into the frame. Squirted a bunch of lube all around the area and loosened the nut on the bolt that attaches the lca to the frame and no more noise. If the noise reappears I might try to squeeze thin washers between the frame attachment and the lca bushing. Were they cracked at all? It's very common for the LCA Bushings to fail around 60k. Loosening the nuts up may not be the best idea. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 This was the front bushing, not the big squishy rubber one on the back of the lca. No sign of cracking. I know the back ones rip a lot, do the fronts tend to fail as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 nah the front ones are usually fine, however if it was never removed it shouldn't have been overly-tight. Hopefully it was the grease that fixed the issue, loosening those bolts isn't advisable. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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