legacyduane Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub5.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub3.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub2.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub1.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub.jpg just got done installing my 350watt open air sub and amp DLS - 0A8 350 watt 8ohm sub JL - J2360.2 amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 so was it worth the effort? what's it look like from the cabin side My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyduane Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/subtop.jpg the top looks 100% stock it hits hard to. i love it. i was amazed how good the 8" sub hit. no one believes thats its a little 8" sub till i pop the truck and show them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frkkevin Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 dls ftw .. looking good 512whp/465ftlb 2005 5EAT Legacy (Build Log) Videos - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad W Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 How does that clear the Trunk lid torsion bars? Inside pic with the seats down and trunk closed, please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 How does that clear the Trunk lid torsion bars? in other countries it comes with a factory speaker there. bars are bent to accept an object there My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Looks good!! Do you mind taking measurements on the length of the magnet (the sub is 8" I want to know how long the magnet is) For a newbie to do something like this, and a few years ago it was all talk on the forums but no one did it. I think some (like me) didnt factor in the magnet is smaller then the size of the sub thus wont clear the bars 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 when done properly a free air sub mops the floor with most any sub. very natural deep bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyduane Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 8" Single 8 ohm Performance OA Series Car Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 350 watts RMS: 150 watts Impedance: 8 ohm Chrome steel basket Non-Pressed paper reinforced cone Foam surround Dual spiders Dual magnet system (Ferrite) Chrome-Plated terminals Copper voice coil wire Mounting Depth: 4-3/4" Mounting Hole: 7-1/16" Weight: 8.83 lbs Magnet Size: 80 oz 2" Voice coil Frequency response: 30-2000 Hz Sensitivity: 85 dB X-Max: +- 9mm The sub fits perfect into the stock hole with no cutting. This it the best 8" free air sub out there. I did a lot of research before buying one. And you have to go with the same amp I used because it's the only one that will run at 8 ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 i thought about doing a sub there but was way too impatient and went with a ported box. ive heard many,many subs and many different setup and by far freeair was the only one that has that non boomy sound. its not for the faint of heart and you just cant slap it in there and go...,but when properly sealed and done correctly its bass nirvana. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frkkevin Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 8" Single 8 ohm Performance OA Series Car Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 350 watts RMS: 150 watts Impedance: 8 ohm Chrome steel basket Non-Pressed paper reinforced cone Foam surround Dual spiders Dual magnet system (Ferrite) Chrome-Plated terminals Copper voice coil wire Mounting Depth: 4-3/4" Mounting Hole: 7-1/16" Weight: 8.83 lbs Magnet Size: 80 oz 2" Voice coil Frequency response: 30-2000 Hz Sensitivity: 85 dB X-Max: +- 9mm The sub fits perfect into the stock hole with no cutting. This it the best 8" free air sub out there. I did a lot of research before buying one. And you have to go with the same amp I used because it's the only one that will run at 8 ohms any amp will run at 8ohm.. just a matter of what power it will put out at that ohm. 512whp/465ftlb 2005 5EAT Legacy (Build Log) Videos - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyduane Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Yeah that's what I thought to but you need like a 1800 watt 1ohm mono amp to push the sub. That's what I was going to get but the prices crazy for an amp that big. I called a lot of amp companies and they said that there amps would only rum at 1-4 ohms and would highly recommend not hooking one if there amps up to a 8 ohms sub. Till I called JL and they make an amp prefect for what I'm doing and meant to run at 8 ohms and have me the perfect watts. I'm sure u can prob hook any amp up to it but u will need alot of power and I wasn't going to do a half ass job on this I wanted it to be perfect and something I can trust in my trunk. And have other people do and not have any problems with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad W Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 I know that bars are bent to miss the speaker, but based on the measurements I took, that speaker has more than 1" more mounting depth than possible. I wonder if the bars contact the magnet when the trunk is closed. As far as the amps go, 8ohms is a very gentle load and any bridgable or mono amp would have no problem with it. The issue is you've got to target about 2x the amount of power you want...i.e. to give this a solid 250 watts rms at 8 ohms, you're looking for an amp that pushes 500 watts rms at it's standard 4 ohm rating. While there are plenty of inexpensive amps that would work just fine for this woofer, your JL is definitely a great choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frkkevin Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Yeah that's what I thought to but you need like a 1800 watt 1ohm mono amp to push the sub. That's what I was going to get but the prices crazy for an amp that big. I called a lot of amp companies and they said that there amps would only rum at 1-4 ohms and would highly recommend not hooking one if there amps up to a 8 ohms sub. Till I called JL and they make an amp prefect for what I'm doing and meant to run at 8 ohms and have me the perfect watts. I'm sure u can prob hook any amp up to it but u will need alot of power and I wasn't going to do a half ass job on this I wanted it to be perfect and something I can trust in my trunk. And have other people do and not have any problems with. It would not have been difficult to find an amp.. you just need 600/700rms @ 4 ohm .. you could achieve that from a bridgeable two channel 512whp/465ftlb 2005 5EAT Legacy (Build Log) Videos - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speddmn Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 where did you get the grille? and noob question; i've got an 8w0 sittin in the basement, would it work for a similar setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad W Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 An 8w0 should fit, but an 8IB4 would be ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPjeep2002 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 How did you get the amp wired up to receive the signal for the sub to hit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad W Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Just take the speaker level signal from the factory sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skwiggly Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Could you please describe what you did to seal the sub to the deck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwindmachine Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 You'll also want to make sure the sub is sealed to the rear deck with speaker cauk and the rest of your trunk weatherstripping is in good shape. Sealing off any large airleaks, other than the seams between the seats will help improve the performance of this type of speaker since it uses the free air behind it as the "enclosure". What brand/model is this particular sub? I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side? I have my amp under the passenger's seat, other people have done it too 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 You'll also want to make sure the sub is sealed to the rear deck with speaker cauk and the rest of your trunk weatherstripping is in good shape. Sealing off any large airleaks, other than the seams between the seats will help improve the performance of this type of speaker since it uses the free air behind it as the "enclosure". What brand/model is this particular sub? I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side? Um, you do know that there are vents under the trunk floor that let air out of the cabin, right? You can't seal those as they are needed to allow the HVAC system to work properly. The point of an Infinite Baffle sub like this is that it does not need an enclosure to work properly, hence the high impedance. It can control it's movement well to work without the support of an enclosure. Anyways, nice setup. I have been thinking about removing the cover plate in my car to allow my 10W6 to "talk" to the cabin better. I just need to tackle the task of removing the rear deck and adding a new hole in it with a grill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Sorry to bump an old thread, but... Info on how to clear the trunk lid torsion rods? Using a measuring tape indicates only ~2.75" of clearance depth-wise, and obviously you've gone past that. Do the rods rub the side of your sub, and does it really matter? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyduane Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 The bars just touch the magnet but there's nothing to worry about it won't do anything. My sub has been in there for two years not one issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copyboy311 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Can I hook up the rear-deck factory sub to a new aftermarket stereo without any mods? I don't really want to mess with adding an amp, as the car is getting up there in age, so I don't care to spend the time/money on it. However, the factory disc changer is toast, so I'm going with a Pioneer head unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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