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Fuel pump control module


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So is this how Scooby2.5 wired up his unit?? I was trying to draw out his explaination in post #106 along with Integroid's follow-up. Please bare with me as I'm not an engineer. I did take some electrical classes in school, but just enough to get by ;)

 

Please add to this or tell me if I'm completely off base....

952871156_FuelPumpControlModule.JPG.0332a276f27988e1644b98d35e2513d4.JPG

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Looks good.

 

Power from stock fuel pump relay and the ground is "on" "off" for the New relay, sending the 12v coming direct from the battery to the STI fuel pump module. Out of the fuel pump module to the fuel pump using existing wire or your own.

 

The wiring diagram in the Aeromotive instructions I posted in post 106 is a good picture as well and it shows integroids relay. It just doesn't have the module in-between the new relay and the pump.

Edited by Scooby2.5
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^ What "fan" does this refer to in the diagram above and where is this relay located?

 

And "B"+ and "E" are actual terminals on the FPCM?

 

Apologies for my confusion. Trying to plan my upgrade and want to make sure I get this correct when I install my DW65C.

 

His picture is showing fan but just put "fuel pump module" in place of the word fan and it is correct.

 

Again the drawing is in both the links of post 106, minus the module which resides in-between the 12v off the new relay and the pump.

 

It would be really easy to purchase the kit from Aeromotive and just wire it up exactly from their drawing with the fuel pump module in the circuit.

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In this drawing the STI fuel pump module will go in-between lead 87 of supplied relay and the fuel pump, just like the factory.

 

Just follow the wiring colors etc in the vacation pics....

 

If you need the picture larger click on it and hit full screen at webshots or just follow the link in post 106.

 

If someone is savvy with manipulation of this photo from the pdf, please add in the module.....

 

http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/21417/2143516020074087040S600x600Q85.jpg

Edited by Scooby2.5
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So is this how Scooby2.5 wired up his unit?? I was trying to draw out his explaination in post #106 along with Integroid's follow-up. Please bare with me as I'm not an engineer. I did take some electrical classes in school, but just enough to get by ;)

 

Please add to this or tell me if I'm completely off base....

 

 

That looks right. Just make sure to replace the ground in the harness of the FPCM with equal gauge wire as the 12V wire from the relay. The ground is just as important as the new 12V power wire.

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PS, I would buy a quality relay and not a cheap $1 relay. I have seen the cheap relays melt and fail after time.

 

The one below is not too expensive and is a high quality relay.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003510087-Mini-Relay-Bracket/dp/B000VUAJIM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1342748529&sr=8-8&keywords=bosch+relay]Amazon.com: HELLA 003510087 30 Amp 12V Mini SPST Relay with Bracket: Automotive[/ame]

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Thank you Scooby2.5 and integroid so much for the help!! It now makes a lot more sense to me. I know I was probably "re-asking" the already answered question, but seeing it visually really helped. A no worries Scooby2.5 I did study the link in post 106. I learn better by bouncing my thought process off of those who are much smarter then me :) I hope you don't mind?

 

integroid your link to the relay would have been my next question ;)

 

I already ordered the new FPCM off eBay for $50! Can't believe that a new one cost $355 from FredBeans!

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And I actually took the pins out of the harness and soldered the 10 gauge wire directly onto the pin instead of crimping a new wire to the existing wire off the harness. So there is no step down in the gauge of wire like what you did and it is a true 10 gauge power/ground to the FPCM. It is 14 volts out of the module and at the pump.

 

I forgot to mention I have 4 gauge wire going to my trunk for my stereo system that is connected to a 1.5 farad capacitor. I tied the power source to the relay from the capacitor. I dont know if that would make any difference but I know it will help clean up the power some.

 

Got my "new" used FPCM from FedEx on Saturday. I was going to get started on this, but for the life of me I can't seem to figure out how to get the pins out of the harness. I removed the white plastic piece which I thought was a "pin holding" piece, but I can't seem to pull them out :spin:. integroid.... any tips??:redface:

FPCM.jpg.a3357fe42bf0cecc65a4f4d0a1a02d4c.jpg

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Thank you Scooby2.5 and integroid so much for the help!! It now makes a lot more sense to me. I know I was probably "re-asking" the already answered question, but seeing it visually really helped. A no worries Scooby2.5 I did study the link in post 106. I learn better by bouncing my thought process off of those who are much smarter then me :) I hope you don't mind?

 

integroid your link to the relay would have been my next question ;)

 

I already ordered the new FPCM off eBay for $50! Can't believe that a new one cost $355 from FredBeans!

 

No problem, definitely here to help.

 

On the price I couldn't believe that either. If the people selling them only knew what they cost new ;)

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Got my "new" used FPCM from FedEx on Saturday. I was going to get started on this, but for the life of me I can't seem to figure out how to get the pins out of the harness. I removed the white plastic piece which I thought was a "pin holding" piece, but I can't seem to pull them out :spin:. integroid.... any tips??:redface:

 

I would have pulled the pins out of mine but Cobb Tuning plano had to put the module in for me as I had to leave and go to work.

 

They cut the wires. I would have popped them out if I could have.

 

Without looking at it I couldn't tell you how to get them out but I know in the past on connectors I used a dental pick or even a pin popper.

 

Usually there is a little tab on the pin that sticks up, accessed through a hole. Usually you push down on the tab and and then pull the pin out.

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I would have pulled the pins out of mine but Cobb Tuning plano had to put the module in for me as I had to leave and go to work.

 

They cut the wires. I would have popped them out if I could have.

 

Without looking at it I couldn't tell you how to get them out but I know in the past on connectors I used a dental pick or even a pin popper.

 

Usually there is a little tab on the pin that sticks up, accessed through a hole. Usually you push down on the tab and and then pull the pin out.

 

Oh My GOD you are a GOD!!!! I looked on the front of the harness and pushed down on a tab and came right out!!!

 

I think I spent an hour trying to figure this out last night. Thank you soo much for the tip. I think I might actually be able to do this mod myself instead of having my pro-shop do it. Like most of us I used to do car stereo stuff when I was younger.

 

Now..... to find where the FPCM is on the driver's side.... Looked at the vacation pics and can't seem to place where it is. Is it under the rear seat, or under the rear quarter window in the passenger compartment or in the trunk by the wheel well?

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Great glad to be of help. Good luck with the tune....

 

As far as the location I can only tell you on the wagon. I have no idea on a Sedan.

 

And yes the vacation pics are not really clear on the location.

 

My guess would be in the trunk area near the wheel well behind the covers. That is EXACTLY where it is on the wagon.

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Now that you mention the trunk I think the vacaton pics make more sense now since I recall seeing something like a trunk support beam. Moving some trunk liner is a lot easier then removing part on the interior.
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So I looked behind the trunk liner and it's not there. I guess I'll have to take apart the back seat and the trim around the rear quarter window which is what the vacation pics mentioned. Wish the pics would show it better :(
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Any word on whether the GR STI modules are acceptable?

 

See post #62-65 or so.......

 

It seems the 08 up uses the same number as ours????? :confused:

 

Im not sure I would try it. Like was pointed out the older STI module was $350 and the newer one was $90

 

You could try it or get someone to measure the voltage under the seat at the fuel pump.

Edited by Scooby2.5
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Well, assuming the GRs are questionable, what do you think is the difference between 22750AA000 (04 and 05 sti) and 22750AA010 (06+)? Don't know if the years are correct but thats what FAST says... I wonder if the 010 pn is just a revised number. Should I try the 000?
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This validates my solution, to maintain PWM control but also have hardwire override, activated via boost switch. So at the + & - wires from fuel pump module to pump, cut and intercept with DPDT relay. Have relay switched by boost pressure switch. When switched, relay directs power from fused thicker gauge wire direct from battery, through relay to fuel pump, back to relay and to ground (fuel pump module bypassed entirely). Could easily add a Boost-a-pump to the boost-switched circuit, so not only would you have BAP but you would have it on its own heavier gauge circuit. You may have to wire up a resistor to fool the fuel pump module, which would add some more complexity with second relay, but long story short the car would be all OEM-controlled while off boost, which would be nice!

 

Oh maybe this is what climber is talking about SBT.

 

I would NOT do what he is suggesting. Too many things in the circuit.

 

The system we are doing IS being controlled all OEM. Only difference is a relay and direct battery voltage to the FPCM and of course utilizing the STI FPCM.

 

The STI FPCM is a simple set up that allows the system to work as intended, 33%,66%,100% duty cycles as needed by the system based on load and outputs the voltage the pumps are actually tested at.

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