IanB Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Thanks for the DIY, sounds like I'll be tackling this job shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownotslow Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 That's one of those tools I've always been meaning to buy... I have found that a 3lb hammer works well too. Just remember to leave the nut on a little in case you miss. Wacking the LCA on a 01 Integra did the trick. Alway's works on Honda's Just used this method on my car yesterday before replacing an axle. Worked fine. Castle nut off. Whack front of the LCA. Profit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Started this tonight, ball joint will not pop out, either side, me and a buddy had the crowbar wedged between the LCA and the knuckle and lifting on a floorjack, lifting the side of the car off the jackstands, felt dangerous, shut er down for the night. Tomorrow, bigger crowbar, more PB Blaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Update: Ended up using a 4 foot section of pipe with one end set on top of the LCA, and the back side of an axe full power swings to knock it out of there! Took about 15-20 swings per side, but I got it out of there. My bench vise and the Part Source balljoint set weren't up to the task of pressing the bushings in/out, so I had to take the arms and new bushings to a buddy's work and used their press. Once that was done, it went back together and was back on the ground in about an hour. Good to get that out of the way, on to the next job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustincredible Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Paul or anyone else that can answer this question, Will the LCA tool work with other manufacturers like Whiteline, Perrin, SuperPro, or OEM? If so, I'm buying the part as soon as I get an answer. Thanks. Sold: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Spec B #104 of 500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Any ideas on where I can purchase the "AVO Bushing tools" that are referenced in this DIY tutorial. Without those, the prospect of getting those out LCA bushings pushed out w/ my press is daunting. I screwed up one Lower control arm when my jury-rigged bushing tool was off by less than 1mm. The process of removing the Ball joint was a bit oversimplified here. I spent about 6 hours trying to separate it from the Hub (and only getting it out 4mm at best) and finally found a tool on the NASIOC site called Sniper's Ball Tugger which made the process painless, $45 tool but priceless in the end at removing a rust-encrusted coastal New England ball joint. What is the correct diameter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 F-ing ball joint might as well be welded on, that bitch ain't coming off. On the drivers side I actually took the castle nut off and simply dropped the lca off the ball joint assembly completed. Passenger side won't budge. I drowned it in pb blaster, propped the breaker bar between the lca and strut assembly like I did on the other side, hammered away, not a damn thing. I'm gonna try to separate the ball joint since I finally managed to get that bolt off. Has anyone successfully used the ball joint separator tool that can be found at Advance etc? Does it work? I'm not talking about the pickle fork thing, but the tool that forces the whole joint out of the lca. What opening should it have to fit our joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 get an adjustable one like this style: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1316003362&sr=8-5]Amazon.com: OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator: Automotive[/ame] All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Take a look at this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/do-you-disconnect-lca-ball-jointi-168791.html I used this tool and had it apart in about 30 seconds. This is after four Wisconsin winters. I didn't even attempt the other method. http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Take a look at this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/do-you-disconnect-lca-ball-jointi-168791.html I used this tool and had it apart in about 30 seconds. This is after four Wisconsin winters. I didn't even attempt the other method. http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html This type of puller works for a lot of cars. If your tight on money get the 9.99 type or loaner from autozone. Sometimes you don't have room to approach from above the ball joint. That and the increased leverage is the benefit of the more expensive OTC tool I linked. I dislike having bought one tool "to get by" then find out I have to buy the more expensive one on a later project. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I got the $100 loaner from Advance It has 4 different kinds of tools in the box so I'm sure at least one will work. I can't wait to pop that thing off, I've been struggling with it for longer than I thought I was going to have to. And I'm sure putting that castle nut back on will be fun when the ball joint will start spinning when I try to tighten it in ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I got the $100 loaner from Advance It has 4 different kinds of tools in the box so I'm sure at least one will work. I can't wait to pop that thing off, I've been struggling with it for longer than I thought I was going to have to. And I'm sure putting that castle nut back on will be fun when the ball joint will start spinning when I try to tighten it in ... I own the $100 loaner kit from Advance. I have used it a couple of times and it has saved me every time. I used an impact wrench to put the castle nut back on. It spins the nut on fast enough so the ball joint doesn't spin. Just don't go too tight and make sure you torque it properly. This is as long as you didn't mess up the threads too badly on the ball joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I was going to do my LCA's today, but ran out of time. Bummed. I was really looking forward to them. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Given the incredibly loud bang produced when I was finally able to loosen the ball joint from the LCA, there was no way in hell I was going to get it undone with just bangin' on it. Autozone tool worked like a charm, I should have gotten it from the start and not waste an afternoon. Literally took not even 5 minutes. Now ... how the hell am I going to be able to tighten the castle nut back on if the ball joint is going to start spinning freely, which I know it will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 A large tie rod separator tool worked like a charm. Took less than 60 seconds. I went the route of removing the castle nut. That ball-joint is almost impossible to take out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 .............My bench vise and the Part Source balljoint set weren't up to the task of pressing the bushings in/out, so I had to take the arms and new bushings to a buddy's work and used their press. ....... Is this ball joint press kit from HF similar to the one you unsuccessfully tried? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 ^ you can also rent one for free from advance auto. you get the $100 deposit back when you return the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I ended up having to use the Advance kit and it worked great. Save yourself the wasted time and just go rent it. If the ball joint starts spinning freely like in my case when trying to tighten the castle nut back on, just jack it up a bit. It will wedge it and keep it from spinning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkonmonk Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I measured the Whiteline bushings at 1.964". I didn't even think to try mm. I am looking for a set to swap mine also. I have a press but no adapters yet. The generic ball joint press from Autozone does not have the right adapters. Monk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 ...........The generic ball joint press from Autozone does not have the right adapters. Monk Do they provide a 14 pc set like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-66958.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkonmonk Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Do they provide a 14 pc set like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-66958.html Nope, the only choice they had was the generic 3 ring choice set. Maybe I should check advanced???NAPA??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy360 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Bumping this thread as it looks like I will be taking on an upcoming project this weekend or next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 To anyone who has done this already, I have 3 questions: How long did it take you? How many miles were on your car? Did you notice any improvement with the new bushings? I noticed my bushings were starting to crack and wear thin while I was doing my brakes this weekend. This seems like a fun way to waste an afternoon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 It took me about 3-4 hours to do. I had about 106K miles on my car. I noticed a huge improvement in the handling. It was much more crisp and felt more confident. You will NEED a press to get the old bushings out and put the new ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thanks CapnJack! I bet later this summer or in fall is when I'll finally get around to it. I'm only at 77k miles but the bushings looked like they definitely need to be changed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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