firedawgs Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 So I am finally posting the header and uppipe combo pictures. Make sure to look under the reveiw sections for a complete write-up. So there are a couple of us that have posted on how to install the uppipe; so I am going to direct more on the header portion. Here is the picture of what got installed: http://img116.echo.cx/img116/6937/maddad6mp.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 My suggestion is to have a couple of things before you start the install; a bottle of anti-seize and a can of rust away (to help loosen up bolts). Tools you will need will be a 10mm, 14mm, O2 socket, and extensions. The combo kit comes with the 2 header gaskets, and 2 uppipe gaskets. My suggestions is to buy the downpipe gaskets too; since it has to come off to get to the uppipe. Picture of what anti-seize looks like: http://img219.echo.cx/img219/5025/seize5fl.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 I/we started on the bottom of the car. I think it is easier. Take off the plastic skid plate (simple pull out tabs). Then you can see the headers with heatshield and uppipe. http://img210.echo.cx/img210/8778/headerheat8fd.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 Take off the left and right side header heatshields. You can keep the center heatshield on. I am pretty sure these are the 14mm bolts. There are 4 bolts to each header to head side as well. Here is the stocker header off: http://img210.echo.cx/img210/9223/header7cb.jpg Here is a picture of the car with headers off: http://img210.echo.cx/img210/9451/off9dn.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 Remove the downpipe (5 bolts to tubo and 2 bolts on downpipe end). Ok, your done with the bottom of the car for now. It time to start on top. Remove the plastic top cover (four plastic screws). Remove heat shield from turbo (7 bolts I think). Now you can get to your uppipe. There are 5 bolts on the top uppipe (3 are actually to the turbo and 2 are to the heat shield and a bracket). The stock uppipe has 2 bolts bottom flange and the maddad uppipe has 3 bolt flange. Here is where the first problem occurred. The kit did not come with new bolts. I talk to Rich at Daddysscp.com and the problem is resolved for the next buyers. So, improvising was needed for this. Here is a good comparison of the stocker next to the Maddad header and uppipe: http://img112.echo.cx/img112/1269/compared4lu.jpg Here is a picture of what we had to do to take the bolts off the old uppipe: http://img112.echo.cx/img112/447/uppipebolts2ld.jpg Here the bolts are going onto the new uppipe. We ended up stripping one bolt. So right now my uppipe top flange has 4 bolts on it not 5. The remaining bolt is for the bracket. The gasket is completely sealed; no leaks (knock on wood) http://img112.echo.cx/img112/3870/newbolt0ec.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 After the long time it took to get the bolts on and finding a bolt for the 3 flange, compared to 2 flange, it went back together fairly easy. The 3 bolt for the uppipe flange was taking off the old exhaust header. The next hold up was the installation of the new uppipe. We could not get it to line up. So we just put the uppipe into a vise and slightly bent the bolt to line up right. No big deal. The installation is just opposite of what you did to take off. Here is good info for you; the torque specs are 28-36lbs. We used 32lbs. Don't really have pictures of the stuff going on, but it is pretty self explanatory. Here is a good picture of the exhaust protion of the turbo: http://img53.echo.cx/img53/6430/turbofan0yr.jpg Here is a good comparison of the stocker vs. maddad uppipe. Look at the restriction of the stocker.: http://img53.echo.cx/img53/7798/uppipecompare7pq.jpg Here is the finished product installed: http://img53.echo.cx/img53/5160/installed2ny.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 We had to cut away a little bit of the plastic skid plate because of the clearance. Let me tell you that the headers get hot quick. There is no melting of the plastic, but probably would if you don't cut some of the plastic. I would love to buy the metal skid plate made for the JDM Legacy. Clearance picture: http://img144.echo.cx/img144/1738/clearance6xy.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 Here are some general pictures. Funny, the belt is made from Mitsubishi: http://img144.echo.cx/img144/6937/mitsu5sj.jpg Picture of the stock downpipe. You can see why it is the most restrictive portion of the exhaust system. : http://img144.echo.cx/img144/8921/downpipeoff9vv.jpg Picture of the clock showing finished time. That is AM. Yes it took us 6 hours. If I would do it again I would a couple of things different. The biggest hold up was the bolts. But, that won't happen to anyone else that buys these headers and uppipe from daddysscp.com. http://img147.echo.cx/img147/972/clock8cv.jpg Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Yeah, that's pretty close- looks nice under there though- how do you like the sound of the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 If anyone has questions or needs help, don't hesitate to ask . Now it is time for me to do the reveiw on this in the reveiw section. Rich at www.daddysscp.com gave me a great deal (undisclosed), so that I would do a write up and make sure that the WRX/STi headers and uppipe fit with no issues. I would feel safe to tell you that you can buy just about any brand of headers and uppipe made for the STi and it will fit. It is the same block. The sound is the same. I was surprised not to hear a difference. But, again I still have the stock downpipe, 3rd cat, and exhaust. BTW: I did not put the resistor fix for the CEL in. I wanted to see if it would through a CEL first. It has been 3 weeks and nothing yet. My guess is that since I did both the headers and uppipe, there is not a big fluctuation in the EGT tempatures. There are no leaks yet. As long as you are careful with the gaskets, and use the torque specs. The maddad gasket are also 5 layers, whereas, the stockers are 3 layers. With the header and uppipe the EGT temperature are more down. You can handle more boost now. The boost comes on quicker too. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I think that plastic will melt, eventually. I don't get the aftermarket pipes not having any heatshields. Who knows what else especially with so much tubing under the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 Only time well tell on the plastic. Some of the underside of the plastic does have insulation. As for the heatshield; that would take away from the looks. I thought about wrapping it, but I will give it a lttle bit of time. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 that would take away from the looks.How often do you look down there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest *Jedimaster* Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Don't worry about the burning plastic- he's a fireman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBE555 Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I wonder how different the equal-length headers sound on this car. We know the JDM ones a bit but wonder how they differ on ours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 If you go with the equal length headers you will loose that "boxer" sound. The benefits are that you will lower the EGT even more than unequal. You can run more boost with a lower EGT. The down fall for the unequal is that they cost way more; upwards of 1K+. Also they are bigger causing room issues in some cases. Me personally can not sacrifice that boxer sound. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Digits Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Impressive - and thanks for documenting it all. How's it feel to run with them - and what would a guy notice over an up-pipe only setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 I can't make a complete reveiw between the uppipe alone and the uppipe and headers, since I did both at the same time. I can tell you that with only the uppipe you can expect faster spool up. With the uppipe and headers you will get faster spool up and lower EGT temps; resulting in more available boost. Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Digits Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 So by lowering EGT we have the potential to boost more before we leave the turbo's optimal efficiency range? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 2 interesting points from the look of the picts seems that the O2 sensor only sees one cylinder it took 6k miles for the egt sensor to fail on my WRXs gutted uppipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Looks good! You'd think they would give you new studs for the UP. Getting the old out is a PITA. And whats with the roundbar connecting the two butterfly flanges? Do they think it's gonna flex/spread? OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwood Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 If you go with the equal length headers you will loose that "boxer" sound. The benefits are that you will lower the EGT even more than unequal. You can run more boost with a lower EGT. The down fall for the unequal is that they cost way more; upwards of 1K+. Also they are bigger causing room issues in some cases. Me personally can not sacrifice that boxer sound. It may still sound distinct from a standard issue I-4 though... http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11072 getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firedawgs Posted April 26, 2005 Author Share Posted April 26, 2005 As long as it does not sound like a ricer "honda" Updated my vBGarage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team23jordan Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 thanks for the write up i needed this cuz i'm gettin headers soon!! Perrin BIG maf intake Perrin Turbo Inlet HKS SSQV BOV Megan Racing header with UP (ceramic coated) HKS DP (WRX) DMH E-cutout Custom 3" catback UTEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Don't they have coated headers and up-pipe now? Also, I never realized their up-pipe was such a change in diameter compared to the stocker. That must hurt spool-up a bit since the velocity drops compared to stock... -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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