how to make adjustments on racecomp tarmac 1 coilovers?

[deer3]

ok so i just had my coilovers installed on my car.(racecomp tarmac 1's) now b4 i go for an alignment i just want to make adjustments so ride height and what not but the box only came with the coilovers, camber plates and a wrench. no instructions and since i dont know much about suspension im asking how do you make adjustment on them? since coilovers are mostly different how do u make them on these coilovers?

 

any help would be appreciated...pics would be amazing

[system60]

adjust what? the height or the rebound??

[torinalth]

Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 1 coilovers are comprised of stainless steel dampers mated to linear race springs. Precise adjustments to rebound damping can be made throughout a wide range of adjustment. The Tarmac 1 coilovers feature 3 different daily drivable yet track worthy spring rates, helper springs, composite locking perches with safety perches added, a stainless steel corrosion resistant coating, and a limited lifetime warranty. Valved specifically for American roads and circuits, these dampers feature more then enough travel to provide exceptional ride quality. Coupled with matched linear spring rates, body roll, squat, and dive are vastly reduced, resulting in improved grip and controllability at the limit.

 

 

 

These are for 2005+ Subaru Legacy ONLY.

 

 

 

Mounting options are assembled with ride height preset.

 

 

taken from RCE site

 

 

 

Blue: you can adjust these at the top of the strut (didnt see any at the bottom in the pics I saw). typically there is a allen key that goes down the center of the strut tube to turn and make the adjustments. if that does not exist then you may be turning the center rod by its self... this would be quite likely if the center post has squared off sides to allow for a wrench or an opening at the top for a flat head screwdriver. I dont know these specifics, but this is typical.

 

 

RED: They are saying you should NOT play with the ride height. looking at the design I would tend to agree. the only way to do it is to use the wrench on the lowest purple collar and raise or lower it (via turning) on the strut shaft. HOWEVER, because the strut body and the lower mount are connected any change in the height will change the preload on the spring. meaning: if you raise the collar, you will now be putting more static pressure on the spring as it is (this will make it already partially compressed, which means it will be HARDER). if you do the other side, then any static preload already calculated by RCE is now removed (this can cause the spring to move around and cause noise, or maybe even be a bit bouncy)

 

 

If you feel the need to go lower, then lower the bottom collar... that said, I would not touch the height and only work on the dampening/rebound rate at the top of the strut.

 

 

T

[deer3]

ya i see a place on top for an allen key.. but heres what im trying to adjust>

 

in the front i want to go a bit lower and dont want to rub so how do i lower it? does it have to be jacked up or can i do it on the ground? now so that it doesnt rub i would adjust the top with the allen key?

 

why would i by coilovers if i couldnt play with the ride height?

[torinalth]

"why would i by coilovers if i couldnt play with the ride height?"

 

to have a more efficient system. having a matched strut to spring. having something that is "cool". or even because you purchased without knowing.

 

That aside, I still wouldn't do it, but if you insist. just adjust the purple collar down farther on the front. simple. you can do it while its on the ground, but it will be a lot harder due to having the cars weight. if you have a floor jack then its quicker to just raise the side and do it that way.

 

as far as height adjustability in general, the T1 is not the best choice.... and as far as "so it will not rub" I have no idea what you are looking for. if its too low, its going to rub.... can you be a bit more detailed on what end are have in mind by that phrase?

 

T

[istealfrombums]

Put the car on jack stands, remove your wheel. You can move the collar that holds the spring right of left, spin right to raise it or spin left to lower it (please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) . Make sure both sides are equal and avoid dropping the car too much as you will be leaving the optimal height for your coilovers. I have mine set at 1.5 finger gaps/1inch gap for all four corners.

[Drew888]

I started with Myles suggested height (optimum setting for the Legacy), but I also didn't care much for the look at the front so I lowered it aprox. 1/4" and now it's perfect.

 

FWIW, I also installed the Whiteline roll center adjuster kit.

 

Remember to use another allen key to loosen the bolt on the collar before you attempt to turn it!!

Also measure it carefully, and when all done and satisfied with how it looks... go get it aligned.

[jagcars26]

Have you called Racecomp and asked? Obviously not.

Why not go to the source with you questions?

[deer3]

lets just say no i havent asked myles at racecomp because he took over 4 months to deliver my coilovers

[LittleBlueGT]

RED: They are saying you should NOT play with the ride height. looking at the design I would tend to agree. the only way to do it is to use the wrench on the lowest purple collar and raise or lower it (via turning) on the strut shaft. HOWEVER, because the strut body and the lower mount are connected any change in the height will change the preload on the spring. meaning: if you raise the collar, you will now be putting more static pressure on the spring as it is (this will make it already partially compressed, which means it will be HARDER). if you do the other side, then any static preload already calculated by RCE is now removed (this can cause the spring to move around and cause noise, or maybe even be a bit bouncy)

 

 

If you feel the need to go lower, then lower the bottom collar... that said, I would not touch the height and only work on the dampening/rebound rate at the top of the strut.

 

 

T

 

I feel like I will preach this til the day I die.

 

Changing the pre-load will not make it harder. That is a cold hard fact! (just cause it was partially compressed before weight was put on it, does not mean the spring rate has suddenly changed. The spring has no idea it was partially compressed once weight is put on it! Sheeeesh. At any-rate they come with helper springs, so you are not going to have any problems with the spring coming loose under full droop, at least not on any normal ranges that they may be adjusted in.

 

These coil-overs are not separate ride-height / pre-load adjustable, so if you want to change the ride height you have to change the pre-load.

 

There is a range (KW has it in their install brochure) of ride-heights that the strut is designed to work within. I don't know it off hand.

[deer3]

i looked at the coilovers today and saw the allen key thing on the two bottom rings..do u think these really hold the adjustment where they are supposed to be given the fact that its just plastic rings with a small allen set screw that would probably strip after a few adjustments? or do you think its just the rings themselves locked togther that hold it?

[LittleBlueGT]

i looked at the coilovers today and saw the allen key thing on the two bottom rings..do u think these really hold the adjustment where they are supposed to be given the fact that its just plastic rings with a small allen set screw that would probably strip after a few adjustments? or do you think its just the rings themselves locked togther that hold it?

 

Mine are close to 4 years old and they have not moved.

[deer3]

u ever stripped those set screws?

[LittleBlueGT]

u ever stripped those set screws?

 

No, and don't over-tighten them either, just snug.