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Best stock speaker upgrade


iyamdman

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I mean if you are looking high end jl, ads,mb quarts, diamond audio, and that other front that going for like 3,000 to 5,000 dollars.........

 

I think that estimate's a bit high. I'm planning to install a JL system for around $2500 all said and done. Here's what I'm planning:

 

CleanSweep

500/5 Amp

10W60 Sub w/ Pro Wedge enclosure

XR650CXi for both front and rear doors

Dynamat all doors

 

This might not be "high end" in the eyes of some, especially because I'm going on the small side with the sub (250W), but I think that it will be more than enough for me.

 

I'm also planning to add either an iBook or Mac Mini with 10" touchscreen, (DVD, of course), GPS, and a Bluetooth keyboard and trackball which will add another $2000.

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Thanx Manville,

 

Good advice. This is actually turning into a nice and informative thread.

 

At least I know what to focus on and the priority for audio output.

 

My car came with the Stock Subwoofer.

 

How does that effect things?

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Don't get me wrong I didn't say the entire system cost that much, I was just say that there is a company trying to sell a front stage set-up for like $5,000. I mean I used to throw together the hardest hitting bass around give you an example. I use to own a 93 escort gt, and me and my friend put an 2.75cu.ft per side with orion dual voice coils and I got that all for like $450. I hit a 163 back in the day with 4 batt. Then I learned somthing about highs,and got all ads set-up dual 6.5 320is fronts and 325i in rear, I had an 250 hcca runing the highs and 2150 running the subs
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iyamdman: I haven't heard Subaru's subwoofer in action, but it most likely will not compare to an aftermarket setup. The important thing though is if you're satisfied with it. If it's ok with you, there is no reason to drop 200 clams on a sub/box/amp.
The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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Thanx Manville,

 

Good advice. This is actually turning into a nice and informative thread.

 

At least I know what to focus on and the priority for audio output.

 

My car came with the Stock Subwoofer.

 

How does that effect things?

 

It doesn't... just disconnect that silly little thing. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

So i want to replace the speakers, I went to Circuit City and liked the sound of the db6500s for the front doors,

 

Is it worth my time to replace the rear door speakers?

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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Stay away from polk. JL XR 650-CSi are around $220 range on ebay. These are really really good comps for the price. I think Tweeter has them in the display room if you want to check them out. Puting the comps in the front powered by a amp of your choice should be enough.
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Stay away from polk. JL XR 650-CSi are around $220 range on ebay. These are really really good comps for the price. I think Tweeter has them in the display room if you want to check them out. Puting the comps in the front powered by a amp of your choice should be enough.

 

The specs on the JL look nice but they have a 3.2 inch deep basket, is there enough room in the door to put in an inch of spacers and still get the door back on and not hit the window?

If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti
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Manville, would it be better to replace the front midrange and the tweeter as opposed to putting a coax in the front door? Or would you recommend a 6.5" coax in the front door and leave the stock tweeter? This would be in an install retaining the stock amp. Thanks!
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Manville, would it be better to replace the front midrange and the tweeter as opposed to putting a coax in the front door? Or would you recommend a 6.5" coax in the front door and leave the stock tweeter? This would be in an install retaining the stock amp. Thanks!

 

 

Swap for a coax and disconnect the stock tweeter. The midrange and tweeter are designed to work together and be in the same plane and point-source. Having the tweeter a foot away from the mid is silly. If you do separates, mount the tweeter as close to the mid as possible and don't use the stock tweeter location. A bridge mounted separate is a better choice than putting the tweeter in the stock location.

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Thanks for the advice! Do you happen to know if the stock midrange driver in our doors currently has it's output rolled off either via crossover or electronically via the amp? If I put a coax in the door, I'm wondering if I need to disable or disconnect something in the signal path that may cause the speakers output to roll off say at around 3k Hz or something like that, such that a coax wouldn't sound very good due to having reduced high frequencies. I don't know if our stock stereos are that advanced or not, it seems to be just four 6.5" full range drivers and a pair of tweets that probably just have a cheap resistor to keep them from getting any lower freqs. I wish we had better drivers in the stock stereo, the ones there now are probably $2 cheapo drivers.
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From previous experience, the midranges probably are playing full range off the stereo, and they naturally roll off at the high end. The tweeter is probably run in parallel off that door lead with a resistor to cut low frequency out. You would be safe just installing a coax in place of the mid - try it with and without the stock tweeter to see how you like it. I left the stock tweeters hooked up in my Jeep, only because I knew the extra hi-end would help when the top was down. In previous cars, I have always disconnected the stock tweeter though, as it ruined the install.
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