SnarlyMarley Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 I am mulling over getting an electric random orbit polisher for waxing. I have a lot of questions... What to get? Cyclo > $200, Porter Cable > $100, Black and Decker $30 Needed for a small car like the legacy (I have a wagon)? Time Saver? Better results? Please help a newbie who has NEVER waxed a car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 dont wast your money. waxing is not that hard and with any powered tool u can easly duck it up. do it buy hand.. its realy not as hard as u think. get a good wax. and u dont need to go nuts with the wax. u dont need the whole car to turn white. maybe the first few times u do it your arms will be sore. after maybe 3 times its no big deal. start small. try doing the hood first or something. better yet. practice on a friends car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerMan Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Get the Porter Cable 7424. Time saver, better results. As soon as I move I am buying one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtguy Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Porter Cable all day. Your arms can't do what a good random orbital does. And don't cheap out. The PC is usually a bit more dosh, but man, is it worth it. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 You only need that to polish. If you just want to wax just get some synthetic stuff. Apply, let dry, wipe off.. from what I hear about our paint, you'll probably just burn right through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redline76 Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 If you're talking wax only, you can easily get by with a hand application only as the good products are extremely easy to apply/remove and don't take long at all. If you're somewhat serious about keeping your paint looking good then you'll want to keep it clean (i.e clay bar) and swirl free (i.e. polish). Wax is the last step in a series of steps needed to have that 'wet look' as well as protect the paint from bird crap and general fallout. To do the full detailing regimen, a machine is a must, as you've got to go over the whole car at least twice (polish/wax), preferrably three times (polish/sealant/wax) initially, or four times (polishing compound/swirl remover/sealant/wax) if you've neglected your paint for a long time. This can get very tiresome by hand, and you won't get nearly as good results. I am a huge fan of the Cyclo. Contrary to what others have stated here, if you're using the right pads with the right products it's virtually impossible to burn the paint or create other damage. The tool is light, indestructable, super easy to use and works wonders even if you've never used a machine before. I guarantee that if you buy one you'll be amazed you ever detailed a car without one. I'm sure the PC is a good machine too; I liked the Cyclo because the dual heads work quicker and I like the counterbalancing action which mimics the same motions you'd do by hand only way quicker with a bunch more torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 The Cylco is a great machine. I've never used one, but I've talked to a lot of people who swear by them and they have really convinced me that its a great tool. The PC is the perfect tool for a beginner and an incredibly appropriate tool for nearly every job. The Cylco does have an edge in some categories, but the PC also has edges over the Cylco. I think if you are looking at getting started with a good machine, then the PC is a great one to start with. I've been using the same PC for over 5 years now and it has probably been run several hundred hours without a problem. The best part about it is that it is virtually idiot proof. The only way you will damage your car with it is if you are being an idiot and nail the scoop with the backing plate or if you just decide to drop the machine on the hood or something. As far as burning your paint and creating all kinds of problems like that, those are not things you need to worry about with the PC. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewster Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Are you able to use a PC (i'm guessing you're all referring to a Porter-Cable) over seams and uneven surfaces. I'm just thinking on the side of an OB there's the lower moulding, then the body panel, then a strip of door edge guard and then another body panel. Can you run the machine over all those surfaces without getting gunk/wax/polish built up at the seams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Its tricky to deal with keeping stuff out of seams, but it is the same tricky stuff that you have to figure out no matter what tool you are using. I generally don't worry about seams because I go back through afterwards and floss them out. Its worth it to me to have an even polish and spend some time doing some fine detailing than skipping areas because I don't want to deal with the mess. I mask off areas that I don't want the product getting on and everything else is fair game. Generally if you wax/polish over a seam you will get gunk inside no matter if you are using a machine or by hand. You just need to get a towel and a tooth pick and floss it back out again. No problemo. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewster Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Thanks, good info there. Guess I need to work on my technique, I tend to get lazy around the mouldings, the door handle and cup, stuff like that. (But after every wash, I do use quick detailer and wipe down inside the door jams and sill plates, underneath the hood and rear hatch). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redline76 Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 If you're getting a lot of residue buildup in the seams and weatherstrip you're probably using too much product. I imagine the PC is the same, but I only put a nickel-sized dollup of polish or sealant on each pad for an area equivalent to 1/3-1/2 the hood. As the pad gets more saturated, I'll extend the coverage area and/or reduce the amount or frequency of adding product to ensure that it's not going on too thick. You should be able to lightly rub a towel over the completed panel to get the residue off as the pas should have taken most of it off as you went over it from multiple passes. If you're scrubbing on the surface to get the dried wax/polish off, you used too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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