Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 That would be great! I'm looking for the thickness from the clutch surface to the fork surface. As in this picture, it's noted as 19.5mm. Not to be anal...I know I can be sometimes. But that bearing surface contact's the Pressure Plate fingers...which in turn....release the...I think you know the rest. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Yes just the bearing dimensions. I should have said the clutch side surface to the fork side surface of the bearing. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 You know, I got to thinking about that comment Bully said about the FW being to thick. I'm not convinced that is entirely true unless they were referring to the crank mounting surface to the clutch cover mounting surface. But if he was referring to the thickness from crank mounting surface to the disc contact surface, thin would cause this problem as it would be similar to a worn out clutch disc. Or if the FW's clutch cover mounting surface to FW disc contact surface was to much. Either of these distances being off would allow the PP to move to far in the engine direction thus the PP release fingers (or whatever you want to call them (Diaphragm Spring)) would extend further out (toward the tranny) and take up any clearance in the release lever travel. It's hard to describe with words, but here's an animation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredBeans Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 That would be great! I'm looking for the thickness from the clutch surface to the fork surface. As in this picture, it's noted as 19.5mm. Here you go sir: (Left = Used OEM, Right = New ACT) http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/8522/oemtob.jpghttp://img541.imageshack.us/img541/1728/acttob.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 You know, I got to thinking about that comment Bully said about the FW being to thick. I'm not convinced that is entirely true unless they were referring to the crank mounting surface to the clutch cover mounting surface. But if he was referring to the thickness from crank mounting surface to the disc contact surface, thin would cause this problem as it would be similar to a worn out clutch disc. Or if the FW's clutch cover mounting surface to FW disc contact surface was to much. Either of these distances being off would allow the PP to move to far in the engine direction thus the PP release fingers (or whatever you want to call them (Diaphragm Spring)) would extend further out (toward the tranny) and take up any clearance in the release lever travel. It's hard to describe with words, but here's an animation. You may be on to something. I know there was a small spacer that some people used with the ACT clutch kit. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 Here you go sir: (Left = Used OEM, Right = New ACT) Fabulous! Thank you sir, one thing ruled out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 I know there was a small spacer that some people used with the ACT clutch kit. I'll do a bit of searching on that. Thanks. I'll be pulling the clutch out on Saturday as I've convinced myself that it's just not right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 I will have to confirm this when I get home...side to side play correct (passenger to driver's side play)? Did you happen to get a change to measure this for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 So I pulled the clutch out. I set a new record for myself. From the time the first wrench touched the car until the engine was hanging in my garage (with clutch attached, IMG_2454)...2h11m. So I'm clueless as to why it is the way it is. My theory is that the flywheel and clutch package is thicker than stock. So I made a couple measurements. I measured from the FW surface that mates to the crankshaft to the diaphragm spring tips where the release bearing rides. The ACT + Bully package (IMG_2472 & IMG_2473) measured 79mm and my old dual mass FW and stock clutch (IMG_2474) measures 81mm. That makes the stock package thicker and blows my theory. BTW: The release bearing is 19.5mm thick. I took some measurements of the release bearing travel on the transmission snout. When there is 13mm of clearance between the release lever and the edge of the transmission housing (the place where I have zero clearance, grey to green in the Blow-up image) the bearing is 1mm from the end of the snout, IMG_2481. When I have 4mm of clearance, the snout distance is 11mm, IMG_2482. Looking at image IMG_2482 of the 11mm distance you can also see the length to the end of the input shaft. It appears to be about 75mm. With the release lever right up against the case add 4mm to the 75 and you get a value of 79mm, the same as the clutch package thickness. You probably need a bit more at the end of the shaft as it does go all the way through the pilot bearing to the back of the FW to the crank mating surface. So I'm at a loss to explain my problem of no lever clearance. It's hard to image the lever is bent. I looked in the manual and found a Blow-up picture but no measurements to back up the diagram. But it shows some clearance. I also measured the slave cylinder piston travel. From fully compressed to fully extended is about 24mm. To there is a lot of range to work with to accommodate wearing clutch components. Does anyone have their clutch out who could make similar measurements? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 I dropped the FW/clutch assy off at Bully today. They had a quick look at it and said the disk is glazed on the PP side and "just" starting to break in on the FW side. They suggested the glazing was due to the PP side taking most of the beating with the FW side not hooking up well enough to even the load.So they are going to rework all the surfaces for me and measure the thickness of the FW to ensure it's in spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 So Bully thinks that my clutch failure was due to improperly adjusted pedal free play causing slippage during my breakin. They checked the ACT FW and said it is within 0.004" of OEM spec. Sine the disc was glazed on the PP side they replaced the Kevlar on both sides and resurfaced both the PP and the FW to true things up. And the best part of all is that they did this for me under their warranty, even though it was caused by user error. That sure was nice of them. The clutch is back on the engine and the engine is back in the car. Tomorrow I'll finish bolting up the other bits and fill the coolant. Just to ensure I have no issues with the release lever clearing the transmission housing opening I ground off some of the housing to make the opening bigger and allow more travel toward the slave cylinder (outlined area in pic). Now I truly due have some play and the ability to push the lever into the slave which I never had before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 So basically the clutch wasn't getting full pressure due to the pedal adjustment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 That's the theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_jamont Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Dale, I'm in Ottawa, and looking at aftermarket clutch options, as mine is just starting to slip. Overall sounds like the service at Bullydog is awesome, but you just haven't had great luck getting things to mate up correctly in the bell housing. Do you have any suggestions on clutch/flywheel options? Are you happy with the ACT streetlite? As well, do you have suggestions that are easily accessible/in stock to us Ontario-types? Cheers, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 Hi: I found the ACT Streetlite a little to light for my taste. I'm now using the OEM '06 WRX FW and the Exedy '06 WRX Stage1 clutch/PP. It has been very good since I put it on 4,000km ago. Bully use the Exedy cores, I think the stage 4 PP was not well matched for my car. Maybe their stage1 or 2 would be fine. I would consider their stage 2 full Kevlar next time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxx4k Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 so how to adjust the pedal out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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