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ISC Coilover Review and Install


Scrad

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I recently ordered the ISC street sport coilovers with a spring rate of 6/8 from AJW Performance.

 

First off I'd like to say that Andrew from AJW was a pleasure to do business with and responded to my question very promptly.

 

The Coilovers came in a very nice and well packaged box from ISC and everything is included in the package. The top hat nuts were already installed on the CO's and the collar adjusters, nuts, and bolt for the brake and speed sensor lines are in a sealed bag.

 

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db32b3127ccefa4e4760736800000030O00BauXDVuyZswe3nwU/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

The Coilovers themselves are very nice looking and seem to be pretty well built.

 

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db32b3127ccefa4fdd1ad22300000030O00BauXDVuyZswe3nwU/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

The instruction manual was a little lacking for me since I've never installed CO's on a car before. A lot of it is in Japanese or Chinese. I don't know which since I can't read either.:redface: But there are translations to english, that are a little vague.

 

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db32b3127ccefa4eb30ff24d00000030O00BauXDVuyZswe3nwU/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

Ok, on to the install.

 

I'm no expert on installs, but I'll tell you how I did mine. It was pretty straight forward and I would give it a 3 out of 10 on hardness.

 

You should soak the lower strut bolts with some Liquid Wrench or PB blaster. I'd soak them a day or 2 in advance, but I personally did mine an hour prior to install.

 

The lower strut bolts are 19mm and are very hard to get off. I'd suggest using a rubber mallet or a long breaker bar wrench. Once you pop those off pull the bolts out. You might need to use your jack to put some pressure on the bottom of your strut to get the bolts out.

 

You'll need to pull back your trunk carpet and you will see the top hat nuts up toward the back seats. If I remember correctly they are a 12mm. Unscrew those and the CO's should fall right out. Make sure you pop the little cap out prior to putting the CO's in.

 

What I did was then screw the bottoms in on the ISC's and made them about a half inch shorter then the stock struts.

 

Suggestion, go about an inch and a half to 2 inches shorter. I ended up having to screw them in more once I had the strut in and mounted, since the bottom mount was still about an inch lower than the arm mount hold. I also compressed the spring up slightly. What I did was jack the rear arm up slightly to get the holes lined up.

 

I put the CO's up through the bottom and snugged up the top hat bolts then did the bottom bolt.

 

Tighten the top hat bolts up and torque them to about 20lbs. The bottom bolt says they should be about 110lbs.

 

The fronts are pretty much installed the same way, but the camber bolt will go in the top hole of the ISC's. Don't forget to use the extra bolts and nuts like I did for the brake and speed sensor lines. The CO's will be installed so that they slide in toward the motor and out toward the fender to change camber.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db32b3127ccefa4fe1a6d28100000030O00BauXDVuyZswe3nwU/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

 

My buddy was helping me while I was eating a burger in front of him and he said that he unscrewed the CO's to make them about and inch shorter than the stock ones. Undo the bottom bolts first and then unscrew the tops and pull the old strut out. Install just like the rears. You might have to use a jack to get the strut holes and arms level.

 

Suggestion after I installed the fronts I wish I would have made them about 2 inches shorter or left them like they were out of the box. The ride height was a little higher than I wanted.

 

Like I said I'm no expert on installs, but this is how I did mine. So I could be totally wrong. If you have suggestion please give them.

 

I just did a quick and dirty install to get the Coilovers in, so I will update the thread with measurements after I get the car aligned and corner weighted and get the ride height set.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db32b3127ccefa4ea3b473ce00000030O00BauXDVuyZswe3nwU/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

 

 

I'll give a little background info on myself prior to my review. I've been racing karts for over 20 years so I know how I wanted the LGT to handle and understand handling characteristics. The stock suspension had me wishing I would have gotten an STI after I'd get home from autox days. But the wife would kill me if I traded the LGT in for another stupid car. (Her words) :wub: I was typically about 3 seconds off most stock and stage 1 STI's, so I knew I had to try something. So Coilovers were my next option since the stage 2 power of the LGT is on par with a stage 1 STI.

 

I generally autox and do lapping days with my LGT. I have a typical Stage 2 power setup. My current suspension setup is 22mm Perrin sways on the hardest settings. I'm still using the stock endlinks as of right now. I also have AVO zero offset LCA bushing. I'm using Kumho MX summer tires for the track.

 

 

Review Time.....

 

 

Ok, on to the Review. Like I said I did a quick install and will need to get things adjusted more and I will report back on what I find and think.

 

But my initial impression on about a 5 mile drive with the stock dampening set on 16 was that it was slightly stiffer than the stock setup. I did originally think it was a little bouncy, but after driving more I didn't notice it that much.

 

I think if you are looking to go with something that is streetable this is the way to go. I'm sure it would pass the wife test no problems. It definitely didn't squat as bad when you get on it like the stock suspension did. It handled the bumps good and would be comfortable for daily driving duties.

 

Initial turn in was good, but what I noticed is that the car really turns hard after your initial steering input. Which is what I wanted. The stock setup that I had I always though the car pushed bad mid corner to exit on power.

 

Overall I'm extremely happy with the ISC's and think they are going to be pretty good for me.

 

I will report back when I get some more time and everything set on the ISC's. I hope to get some track time on them soon to get a feeling for the hardest dampening setting.

 

I just did an autox last week so I will review that soon.

 

 

Alignment and Corner Weighting done.....

 

I finally got my coilovers adjusted. When I set the ride height on mine I adjusted the spring collars to where they touched the spring, but I could still turn the spring by hand. I didn't put any pre-load on the spring at all. Granted I didn't go with a big drop on the car, just a little bit. But I was more concerned with handling over looks.

 

I also put the dampening on setting 22 and it seems to got rid of the bouncyness that I felt earlier when the dampening was on setting 16. I think the 22 is pretty good for shorter daily driving duties. But if I was driving my car everyday on longer trips on crappy roads I'd go back to 16 or maybe even less for the winter time. I really like the way these coilover ride. I think the car is very comfortable to drive, but still have a good aggressive cornering.

 

Measurements

 

This is what I came up with for measurements.The Rear spring is 7 3/4" and the strut measures 17". That is measured from the top mount to the down to the top of bottom strut mount.

 

The front spring measures 7 1/4" and the strut is 12 1/2" measured from the top mount down to the top of the bottom strut mount.

 

Concerns.....

 

The only problem I've had with the coilover was that one of the brake line brackets broke off while I was tightening the bolt down. So I will have to have a buddy tack weld it back on. But since they are still under warranty I will get reimbursed. Good customer service on AJW's part.

 

Some people on the other isc thread are having problems with spring noise. So we are trying to figure that out. Edit the coilovers will now come with Teflon washers to eliminate the noise.

 

See my post a few down on my camber bolt thoughts. Stock bolt didn't seem to give any camber adjustments.

Edited by Scrad
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Good writeup. When you get aligned, I'd recommend having the top camber plates set at 0 and dial in -1 degrees of camber using the lower eccentric bolt. That way, you can adjust the camber at the track and run over -2 degrees of camber. I should be back in the Valley next week so I'll have to check it out once you have it dialed in and aligned :)
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Franz, send me your specs on what your running. I'm going to get Andy to help me corner weight it and get it setup for the track probably later this week or weekend.

 

I was always chewing up the outside edges of the tires at the track so this should help a ton.

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yeah higher spring rates help a ton. Keep in mind I have offset caster bushings so I am running 6.9* on driver front and 6.3* on passenger front. This allows me to get away with running less static camber and still having even wear on the tires. At Shawano I wish I had a little more camber but I prefer to run at the faster tracks more often. :)

 

-1.8 camber up front

.13 toe out up front

 

-1, -1.2 camber rear

.01 toe rear, mainly because stability is preferred taking turns at 100+ MPH at RA ;)

If I only did autox, I would run some toe out in the rear too

 

For Shawano, I would run more camber than that even, so it will be nice for you to be able to adjust it on the fly. The toe out is up to driver preference but I like it and it doesn't increase tire wear much. I know Pete used to run almost -3 camber on R-comps at Shawano, so you'll have to experiment a bit. I still think it would be a good idea to start with -1.3 with the bottom front eccentric bolts if you can get it. Then you can dial in over -2.5 total with the upper plates.

 

I would recommend pre-loading the springs at least .5" per corner to start and then corner balance the car. On Clint's car we had great success increasing the preload a fair amount but it takes some trial and error. Andy might have some ideas about preload when you corner balance, too. But, a lot of people are totally misinformed on how preload works. heh

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I updated the first post with my spring settings. I will have to get some measurements and post them later. Finally got the car washed so I will post more pictures. Corner weighting went pretty well and adjustments went pretty easy.

 

In the other isc thread we are trying to figure out why the springs are making noises for some people. Seems like the springs are binding and moving slightly and causing a popping noise.

 

I'm also trying to find out if an aftermarket camber bolt is needed in place of the stock bolt. I couldn't get any camber adjustment out of the stock bolt, because the holes on the brackets are the same size front and rear and neither of them are oval to make any adjustments. I was able got get 1.3 degrees of camber by tilting the tops in on the camber plates.

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I posted a few times in the other thread about my noises, but basically here is what I wrote. I only hear my spring pop when turning and going over bumps in driveways and into parking lots where the road is uneven and the wheels are turned at a good angle. I never hear the noise while driving and going over bumps and potholes.
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  • 4 weeks later...
So you're running np preload on the springs and you like it? Basically the adjustment of the top two collars make it so you can still turn the spring by hand? You did all of your height adjustments using the lower collar and turning the strut? trying to adjust mine now, but as you said, the instructions aren't very clear
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Yes no preload. I adjusted the 2 spring collars so that they were snug up to the spring. I could still turn the spring by hand. Then I adjusted/turned the whole strut lower collar to get the ride height set.

 

If you want more of a drop you are going to have to pre-load the spring. But if you are more about the performance aspect then you need to set them like I did with less drop, so the arms are not at a lowered angle.

 

I'll take a picture of my ride height so you can get an idea of what no pre load on the spring looks like.

 

I took some measurements of everything. I'll have to go out in the garage tomorrow and check to see where I wrote them down at.

 

I also did an auto x last weekend, so I need to write my impressions down. But overall I really liked the way the car handled. It didn't have the massive body roll feeling the stock suspension had with after market sways.

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Yes no preload. I adjusted the 2 spring collars so that they were snug up to the spring. I could still turn the spring by hand. Then I adjusted/turned the whole strut lower collar to get the ride height set.

 

If you want more of a drop you are going to have to pre-load the spring. But if you are more about the performance aspect then you need to set them like I did with less drop, so the arms are not at a lowered angle.

 

I'll take a picture of my ride height so you can get an idea of what no pre load on the spring looks like.

 

I took some measurements of everything. I'll have to go out in the garage tomorrow and check to see where I wrote them down at.

 

I also did an auto x last weekend, so I need to write my impressions down. But overall I really liked the way the car handled. It didn't have the massive body roll feeling the stock suspension had with after market sways.

 

Cool exactly what I was looking for. I'm not really looking for a big drop at all, but definitely want it lower than it is. Is the portion of the strut between the top two collars and the bottom one really small? Seems like on mine the three collars would have to all be touching each other for any type of drop, as the coilover is about 1 1/2" longer than the stock strut right now.

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Ok I just found my notes on the measurements.

 

So the Rear spring is 7 3/4" and the strut measures 17". That is measured from the top mount down to the top of bottom strut mount.

 

The front spring measures 7 1/4" and the strut is 12 1/2" measured from the top mount down to the top of the bottom strut mount.

 

I adjusted mine with no pre load on the spring. So basically I could move the spring buy hand. By doing it that way you don't get a much drop. And you are correct the 3 collars are all very close together on the bottom.

 

Now if you wanted more drop you are going to have to preload the spring more, so you can adjust the whole strut length shorter. You just need to decide if your more concerned about the look or the performance.

 

I wanted the performance for autox so I didn't drop the car much.

 

Edit, original post was updated. I also need to review the autox I just did last week. So I will do that soon.

Edited by Scrad
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  • 10 months later...
  • 3 years later...
  • 4 years later...

Sorry to resurrect am old thread. I had mine installed last night. They are bouncy as @&$#. I'm about ready to take them off. I assumed the mechanic knew what he was doing and installed for most comfortable ride. I'll see if I can get some instructions from ISC as I bought them used on this forum.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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Sorry to resurrect am old thread. I had mine installed last night. They are bouncy as @&$#. I'm about ready to take them off. I assumed the mechanic knew what he was doing and installed for most comfortable ride. I'll see if I can get some instructions from ISC as I bought them used on this forum.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

Adjust the dampeners on the top of the struts.

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Sorry to resurrect am old thread. I had mine installed last night. They are bouncy as @&$#. I'm about ready to take them off. I assumed the mechanic knew what he was doing and installed for most comfortable ride. I'll see if I can get some instructions from ISC as I bought them used on this forum.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

Also make sure you have your spring preload set correctly too

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As noted above, make sure spring preload is correct, it should be set to 5mm. Confirm the spring rates are the correct ones for the shock bodies (street comfort 8/6, street sport 8/6, or track 10/8), and play with your dampening. Depending on how old they are it might be worth having them serviced.

 

If you can't figure it out call ISC on Monday 6037159078

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