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So what are my options for front LCA bushings? (rear)


Mindspin311

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AFAIK in order from soft to hard:

 

1) 08+ STI - Different part# from LGT, though a member indicated it wasnt a huge difference, which leads me to believe it may be the same as stock. If not, a very marginal difference.

 

2) Group N - Used by ifbiker. I ordered a set also, but not installed yet. You have to email Dave @ Rallispec, part# RST-2027R. Seems to be the happy medium between stock and poly bushings.

 

3) AVO or Fulcrum SuperPro or Whiteline

 

4) Perrin PSRS

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This thread is about LCA bushings, not coilovers and springs. There's tons out there for those. Try using the Search function, it works pretty well on this forum.

 

And this isnt the first thread you've tried to derail either.

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We can supply any of those options for you.

 

My personal recommendation would be the whiteline version. I'm a firm believer in polyurethAne LCA bushings and additional caster. The whitelines allow you to adjust the caster without pressing out and back in, unlike AVO or fulcrum. Also, all whiteline is on sale this month at FBP.

 

Let me know if I can quote a set for you.

 

What's the price for the Group N part?

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We can supply any of those options for you.

 

My personal recommendation would be the whiteline version. I'm a firm believer in polyurethAne LCA bushings and additional caster. The whitelines allow you to adjust the caster without pressing out and back in, unlike AVO or fulcrum. Also, all whiteline is on sale this month at FBP.

 

Let me know if I can quote a set for you.

 

No offense but you should be posting under your vendor account if you are selling stuff....

 

-mike

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I'm not convinced polyurethane is best used for this bushing which is why I went Group N. The Group N bushings are made from the same mold as the stock bushings so you know they will fit right. I drive my car all year and then Group Ns don't squeak, another person has poly bushings in my area and his do squeak. Surely there are people with poly that have squeaky bushings and those that don't, I chose to not risk it because BSRs drive me nuts.

 

Polyurethane does lend itself much better to make a bushing that adds camber and if that's a key consideration then I would go polyurethane.

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I'm not convinced polyurethane is best used for this bushing which is why I went Group N. The Group N bushings are made from the same mold as the stock bushings so you know they will fit right. I drive my car all year and then Group Ns don't squeak, another person has poly bushings in my area and his do squeak. Surely there are people with poly that have squeaky bushings and those that don't, I chose to not risk it because BSRs drive me nuts.

 

Polyurethane does lend itself much better to make a bushing that adds camber and if that's a key consideration then I would go polyurethane.

 

What did you pay for the Group N's???

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I'm not convinced polyurethane is best used for this bushing which is why I went Group N. The Group N bushings are made from the same mold as the stock bushings so you know they will fit right. I drive my car all year and then Group Ns don't squeak, another person has poly bushings in my area and his do squeak. Surely there are people with poly that have squeaky bushings and those that don't, I chose to not risk it because BSRs drive me nuts.

 

Polyurethane does lend itself much better to make a bushing that adds camber and if that's a key consideration then I would go polyurethane.

 

Agreed, if you daily drive your car then the group N bushings might be a better idea. Although we've installed a bunch of the AVO and Whiteline ones on soccer mom's Outbacks and Legacy's and none of them have complained yet.

 

-mike

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About $55.00 a piece. I think your biggest gains comes from replacing all the LCA bushings, once the arm is off the time to change the front ones in minimal. There are 3 main locating points for each side of the front suspension, the LCA contains two of them and the third one is the upper strut mount, or top hat. I think we can all agree that these mounting points stock are mounted softly and as the mounting points are firmed up, the suspension has less "slopey" movements so steering inputs will produce faster responses from the car. The longer it takes the suspension to settle, and in particular the mounting joints, the longer it takes the car to react to an input.
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