FredBeans Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 My database shows the same part numbers for 5MT and 5EAT '05 GT front axles. Originally there were two part numbers for each model (presumably left and right sides) which were 28321AG00A and 28321AG00B. Both were superseded by 28321AG00D. Hope that helps. -Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarutech77 Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 WOW, Great thread!! subscribed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 My database shows the same part numbers for 5MT and 5EAT '05 GT front axles. Originally there were two part numbers for each model (presumably left and right sides) which were 28321AG00A and 28321AG00B. Both were superseded by 28321AG00D. Hope that helps. -Rick Yes that does help, even though I have the front axles that makes one less thing I have to swap out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crrider80 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Share Posted May 8, 2010 Ok, it may be possible that an STI pedal box assembly can fit. There are minor differences but i think it can be made to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESP Dyno Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 My swap if finally done (well sort of)... The mechanical and most of the electrical is complete and the car has been up and running for a week or so. I am hoping to start a new thread with all I have learned. I do still have no cruise and a CANBUS error code but right now I am just enjoying the car. The quick version: Mechanically, the swap was pretty straight forward. All the parts from the donor car went right in. One exception: The automatic car actually has a different reinforcement welded in the tunnel. The manual cross member does not bolt up to it. I used the automatic cross-member and fabbed up an adapter piece to connect it to the rear transmission mount. Otherwise, the manual transmission, shifter, rear end, driveshaft, starter, pedal assembly, master and slave all bolt right in. All mounting provisions are there with plastic plugs in them from the factory. I reused all of my automatic front and rear axles! Electrically, I still have more to do. For now, I am using the automatic ECU and still have the auto cluster installed. I grounded the pin at the ECU to identify it as a manual. I am currently not running the clutch switch, but with the neutral safety switch hooked up, the car needs to be in neutral for the starter to engage. II choose to do it this way as I have an automatic car starter that amazingly still works with this setup. I bypassed the park interlock wiring so I could get the key out of the ignition (kind of important). I also hooked up the reverse lights. With this setup I have the transmission controller unplugged. This sets a error with the can system as it seems to be looking for the module. It shows up on the odometer as "ErrHC" and this sets a P0600 code and causes the cruise light to blink. I shut off the code in the ECU and no more warning lights. Cruise currently does not work and the error on the odometer is still there. Hoping to swap the cluster once I find a manual one to see if that takes care of these last remaining items. www.EnhancedStreetPerformance.com www.facebook.com/EnhancedStreetPerformance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 This is awesome!!! I might keep the wagon after all!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 That's pretty cool. ErrHC and P0600 is both related to the communication bus - probably due to the TCU no longer being online. I wonder if plugging it in would make the car happy, or if it would just confuse the car later when you're in reverse and the TCU thinks you're in drive, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I wonder if it would still be looking for that transmission controller if you simply flashed the ECU ROM from a 5MT car over yours. I don't think it would brick anything .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Would be interesting to plug in an AccessPort to see how it identifies the car because if not, a 5MT ECU would be needed. Is the odometer info stored in the console, ECU or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I wonder if there are any hardware differences between the AT and MT ECUs. If not, then a reflash might be all you need. I agree with John that testing it probably won't brick anything... If you do buy an MT ECU, please try flashing an MT ROM to your AT ECU first. In the name of science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcusDubya77 Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 def interested :woowoo:check out the Diamond Gray Metallic Monster!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESP Dyno Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 From the info I have found, I think the CAN computer and the immobilizer are in the cluster. Wiring to the cruise control seems to be the same for AT and MT cars. Unfortunately, just to try it out, I think I would need to bring the car in to the dealer to have the cluster setup for the immobilizer. At that point, I think I would end up with other issues as the manual ABS module is different (I have one and plugged it in just to see what happens and I get an ABS light from it that I don't have with the AT one installed). Fun, fun, fun... www.EnhancedStreetPerformance.com www.facebook.com/EnhancedStreetPerformance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Awesome. I'll keep my wagon for another 150k miles if I can get a 6MT swap down the line. And maybe an HTA Green... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 With this setup I have the transmission controller unplugged. This sets a error with the can system as it seems to be looking for the module. It shows up on the odometer as "ErrHC" and this sets a P0600 code and causes the cruise light to blink. I shut off the code in the ECU and no more warning lights. Cruise currently does not work and the error on the odometer is still there. Hoping to swap the cluster once I find a manual one to see if that takes care of these last remaining items. Cruise always gets disabled when the CEL is on. It might be possible to disable the P0600 code in the ECU to get your cruise control back. That works with other fault codes, so it's worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESP Dyno Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Yeah, I have it disabled with my AccessPORT which shut off the CEL and the cruise light is not longer blinking, but it still doesn't work. I wonder if the CAN error is screwing with it somehow. www.EnhancedStreetPerformance.com www.facebook.com/EnhancedStreetPerformance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Have you tried plugging in the TCU? If you can give it whatever signals it needs to think that you're cruising along in Drive, maybe that would get your cruise back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 I've had my swap running for a couple of weeks and had the same issues. I ended up disconecting the tcu completely. I don't ever use cruise control so it wasn't a big issue for me. One thing I had to do that I didn't see mentioned was trim that round piece of metal on the shift linkage to keep I from hittting the auto trans bracket while shifting into third or fifth. I'm in Cabo San Lucas Mexico using my iPhone, Ill post some pics when I get back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papajon1000 Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 can you guys give me a ballpark number for what this has cost so far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 can you guys give me a ballpark number for what this has cost so far? I spent $1500 + $250 s/h at justjapimports in Florida and received the transmission, rear diff, front and rear axles (you only need the rears),master cylinder, slave cylinder, shift linkages and shift boot. I purchased a driveshaft from another member on this forum for $150 shipped, my clutch, flywheel around $800 Shipped. You'll also need the MT's top starter bolt and you might want to install new seals since everything is off of the car. Your going to need to fabricate a custom transmission crossmember like the one pictured below. The bolts for everything will already be existing, but the AT's crossmember mount is 3.5" too far back. So I had a good friend lengthen the center piece and cover the existing holes on the old automatic piece so that I could make a hybrid of the two. It worked perfectly. When I get time this week I'll post a complete swap guide for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Or you could just order the MT crossmember unless you saw it at a salvage place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Or you could just order the MT crossmember unless you saw it at a salvage place? The manual crossmember will not work by itself. You have to use the front of the manual crossmember, lengthen it's center section and attach it to the auto crossmember. This is because the auto uses a different mounting plate welded to the hull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Think your friend would like to do them for the members here that cough up the parts and shipping charges plus his labor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Think your friend would like to do them for the members here that cough up the parts and shipping charges plus his labor? I asked him that when he did mine, and he said he would be more than happy to. He works in technical sales, but before he did that he was a fabricator for his company. I'll ask him what he wants for labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESP Dyno Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Rick, I reused my rear axles on the wagon. I removed them and they were exactly the same as the ones I got from the manual car in the salvage yard. Are you sure they were different? I made the cross member slightly different, I'll post a couple pics. The channel is completely overkill but I had it laying around. Also, we are going to throw the car back on the dyno next weekend, but I did notice the car is a little sensative on the shifts. It seems to bog slightly. I am going to see how different the manual and auto maps are...I would imagine it was never really full throttle at low RPMs as the tranny would always downshift. www.EnhancedStreetPerformance.com www.facebook.com/EnhancedStreetPerformance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Rick, I reused my rear axles on the wagon. I removed them and they were exactly the same as the ones I got from the manual car in the salvage yard. Are you sure they were different? I made the cross member slightly different, I'll post a couple pics. The channel is completely overkill but I had it laying around. Also, we are going to throw the car back on the dyno next weekend, but I did notice the car is a little sensative on the shifts. It seems to bog slightly. I am going to see how different the manual and auto maps are...I would imagine it was never really full throttle at low RPMs as the tranny would always downshift. You know I didn't actually check. I was told they would be different, and one of my old axles had a torn boot so I swapped them without looking. I'll do some measuring the next time I get the car in the air. Your crossmember looks good, and probably easier to fabricate. I haven't noticed any bogging on my car. I did have a problem this week with not getting full boost, but it turned out to be a sticking Perrin bov. I put the stock one back on and pulled a few logs this morning. I'm only on my second infamous1 revision, but here they are. The ambient temp was 85 out. romraiderlog_20100619_103755.csv romraiderlog_20100619_104014.csv romraiderlog_20100619_104201.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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