ScottFW Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 It's not the sensor that's the worrisome turbo-damaging failure part; it's the cat in the OEM uppipe. We're replacing the UP with one that doesn't have a cat, and no EGT sensor either, hence no bung that requires plugging. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to remove the EGT sensor but keep the stock UP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Scott FYI I have replaced the up with an INvidia. It has a bung for the EGT. I found a M12x1.25 bolt. But the shortest one I could find is about 3" long. I will cut it down to about an inch and hope I can get the threads cleaned up enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Ah, gotcha. A M12x1.25 bung plug is about $5-6 on ebay. I'd be more inclined to go that route than bother with cutting down a bolt, but that will work too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Cut down & beveled a bolt yesterday about an inch long. That should work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Keep it as short as possible so that at the end of its "run", it's flush with the inside of the pipe. Otherwise - too short, or too long, you have turbulence, and potential for heat-cycle leak. Probably not a lot of turbulence, but anything that disrupts the laminar flow to the turbine isn't helpful. Likewise, with the latter length, sticking into the gas flow gets the bolt heated more than necessary and can cause expansion/contraction that will cause the bolt to work loose and leak. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hey OP... your "Insert them in your EGT sensor plug receptacle as seen below" picture is missing catless up-pipe in the mail http://cdn.smosh.com/sites/default/files/ftpuploads/bloguploads/1113/fabulous-kid-white-dance.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2OSB Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Hey guys, I have a question pertaining to this old thread. Say I cannot find a catless uppipe. Could I rod out the stock uppipe and cap the sensor hole, then do the resister mod? Would that obtain the same result? I would prefer to find a used factory catless uppipe, but after several days of looking on the Nasioc classified page, I cannot find one for sale (ok, there is one, but it's an old ad, and the seller has not responded to PM). H2OSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Just buy a GrimmSpeed. The factory UpPipes tend to fall apart My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonsense Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hey guys, I have a question pertaining to this old thread. Say I cannot find a catless uppipe. Could I rod out the stock uppipe and cap the sensor hole, then do the resister mod? Would that obtain the same result? I would prefer to find a used factory catless uppipe, but after several days of looking on the Nasioc classified page, I cannot find one for sale (ok, there is one, but it's an old ad, and the seller has not responded to PM). H2OSB Technically yes, but you would have to be extremely careful that every last bit of material is removed because anything that rattles loose later is taking a trip through your turbo. I don't think the risk is worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Technically yes, but you would have to be extremely careful that every last bit of material is removed because anything that rattles loose later is taking a trip through your turbo. I don't think the risk is worth it This! It's simply not worth the risk. Also there are health hazards with breathing in cat dust. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mygtlegacy Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 I got a question regarding with this thread. I have 2005 LGT Limited 5AT 136K miles bone stock, and about to replace the uppipe before something goes wrong and destroys the turbo. I read something online says there's a downside using resistors. It could lead to some electrical failure later on like the CRUISE CONTROL will quit working eventually. Is this true? They highly recommend using AP to flash it, but I really don't need an AP since I don't do a lot of mods. Any thoughts ??? Thank you in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Most that have run the 2.2k, say to make sure it is secure in the connector, duct tape. IMO you want a Cobb AP at least stage 1 tune, its how these cars should have come from the factory. It's also safer for the engine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 There is no downside to using the resistor, but there is a downside to not using one. When the EGT sensor is removed and no resistor is installed, it throws a CEL. This CEL can be blocked, but blocking a CEL does not change how the ECU reacts to a missing sensor. The 2.2kOhm resistor tells the ECU that the EGT sensor is reading something like 800 degrees. This is a happy temperature and the ECU does nothing extra. With a missing sensor, the ECU will reference the highest temperature in the EGT tables and use a fuel trim to adjust. If you are un-tuned, or your tuner did not modify this table, it will mess up your fuel trims, possibly causing the engine to run funny or cause poor fuel economy. By installing a $1 resistor, you prevent second guessing your tuner and stupid fueling issues related to a removed component. I have never seen any reported cases of the resistor mod causing problems of any kind. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mygtlegacy Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Thank you both ! I will definitely consider getting an AP, but for the mean time i'll stick with the resistors. Found a Cobb AP V2 the other day locally for $200 and seller says its unmarried. When I got there and check its married to 2013 Subaru WRX. Prolly stolen or something and he doesn't know what he was talking about. He tryna sell it to me for $100, but that's not gonna do me any good. So I just left with disappoinment :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mygtlegacy Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Update! Got my Uppipe done with Grimmspeed Blackcoated. Also did the Resistor mod. So far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aok303 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 did the mod today, works great, I did the Grimmspeed catless up pipe that was ceramic coated!! now to get my catback, maybe down pipe and tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinumdetail503 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Awesome Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinumdetail503 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Write up Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinumdetail503 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Thank you Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmadanat Posted June 9, 2019 Share Posted June 9, 2019 Thanks! Just did this and so happy to have cruise control back. Great writeup. What very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMileHighGuy Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Can anyone tell me how and why the specifics were determined to using 2.2k ohm .5 watt resistor? I'm looking to use this method in another vehicle. I swapped seats. The originals had a side airbag. The new ones do not have this airbag but are from the same model vehicle. After installing the new seats the plugs all plug in but there is not yellow plug (airbag) to plug into the harness on the car side. Therefor the vehicle thinks that the seat airbag sensor is not plugged in. and a light on the dash is now displayed. I was thinking of using this method to trick the sensor into thinking its plugged in. How do I know that I should use 2.2k ohm .5 or a different spec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonsense Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) The sensor on the up pipe is a temperature sensor that provides temp data to the ECU. The ECU knows that a certain range of voltage is "good" so therefore won't produce a CEL. 2.2k ohm of resistance put that voltage in the correct range, tricking the ECU into thinking there is an operational sensor. Now, for your airbag sensor, it's hard to say what the ECU is expecting. So that's the million dollar question, what resistor. I have read both a 2.2 ohm and 3.3 ohm (NOT 2.2k or 3.3k ohm which is 2200/3300, but 2.2/3.3) resistors are correct. I guess it depends on the car, but the concept is exactly the same as this. I'd suggest searching "seat airbag resistor" for your particular car Edited May 5, 2020 by nonsense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMileHighGuy Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 The sensor on the up pipe is a temperature sensor that provides temp data to the ECU. The ECU knows that a certain range of voltage is "good" so therefore won't produce a CEL. 2.2k ohm of resistance put that voltage in the correct range, tricking the ECU into thinking there is an operational sensor. Now, for your airbag sensor, it's hard to say what the ECU is expecting. So that's the million dollar question, what resistor. I have read both a 2.2 ohm and 3.3 ohm (NOT 2.2k or 3.3k ohm which is 2200/3300, but 2.2/3.3) resistors are correct. I guess it depends on the car, but the concept is exactly the same as this. I'd suggest searching "seat airbag resistor" for your particular car Your saying you've read that its a 2.2 or 3.3 ohm for airbag sensors? or in this statement are you referring to the up pipe temp sensor from this original thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonsense Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Your saying you've read that its a 2.2 or 3.3 ohm for airbag sensors? or in this statement are you referring to the up pipe temp sensor from this original thread? Yes, I've seen sever youtube videos that reference 2.2 or 3.3 ohms. It's not uncommon when people put race seats in a car that have seat airbags just search "seat airbag sensor resistor" for your specific car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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