Underdog Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Nice! Good job! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 My passenger side cam sensor is reporting 54 degrees of advance intermittently at idle (supposed to be 0) per my logging the VVT advance angle of both sides. I'm going to start with replacing the sensor. The car is idling very rough right now but I'm addressing low fuel pressure and misfiring also. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 (edited) I doubt it's the sensor based on the way it works. Is it jumping straight from 0-54 or does it get there gradually? Is the driver side behaving normally? You can swap sensors side-to-side and see if the problem follows to save yourself a couple bucks in diagnosis. Edited October 18, 2013 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 It jumps straight there from 0-1 to 53. Driver side is behaving normally. I'll swap them like you said and see where that gets me. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 (edited) Let me know if it oscillates regularly, or if it is erratic. Better yet, feel free to send me a log. These are new GSC stage 1 cams? How deep into the wiring harness did you go for the swap? I would check the continuity between E1/E2 and the cam sensor, specifically the signal return wire, before even trying to swap sensors. RH Cam Position Sensor Sensor Connector (E36) #1 -> Large Connector (E2) #48 Sensor Connector (E36) #2 -> Tan Connector (E1) #1 Sensor Connector (E36) #3 -> Large Connector (E2) #19 Edited October 18, 2013 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 It's erratic based on the logs. I can send you the logs later. New GSC S1 cams. I reused all the stock wiring harnesses from the car and reused the original cam sensors that appeared to have no problems prior. I'll check the continuity too. Thanks -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Spark plugs are fouled on the side where I ran the car briefly with the cam sensor disconnected. Oops. New spark plugs are going in and I will see how the car runs with those first. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Update? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Rewiring the fuel pump this evening and will run the car with new spark plugs. Will log the cam advance angle and see how she runs. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Fuel pump rewire is done. New spark plugs are in. Car is still misfiring on 1 and 3. Logger shows the advance angle at 53-54 again with the original cam sensor. I am putting a new sensor in tomorrow. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Log? Did you check the pinout? These sensors are incredibly simple devices, so it is unlikely, but not impossible, that yours has failed in a way that would make the signal bounce. In my opinion it is more likely that the slots on your GSC cam were machined incorrectly, although it could be something even simpler. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I'll take a log tonight after we replace the sensor. Nothing changed with the harness or pinout.. do you still think I should check that? -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) If you didn't change it then it is probably fine. However I do find that usually the one thing left unchecked turns out to be the culprit. Depending on where you placed the E1 connector (stock position is under TMIC, and is accessible even with STI style TMIC) it is incredibly simple to check since you are pulling the sensor anyways. I'm pretty confident you are dealing with a signal issue, as the system can not jump from 0-53 instantaneously or even reach 53 degrees anyways. A good example is if you swap the LH and RH signal return to the ECU; the ECU interprets the LH and RH as oscillating because the waveforms are not congruent. In response to this the car idles very poorly, and the AVCS cannot control the cam angle. Edited October 24, 2013 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Looking back I'm quoting your post for me to reference later. Check continuity between all 3 wire combinations to each other? Let me know if it oscillates regularly, or if it is erratic. Better yet, feel free to send me a log. These are new GSC stage 1 cams? How deep into the wiring harness did you go for the swap? I would check the continuity between E1/E2 and the cam sensor, specifically the signal return wire, before even trying to swap sensors. RH Cam Position Sensor Sensor Connector (E36) #1 -> Large Connector (E2) #48 Sensor Connector (E36) #2 -> Tan Connector (E1) #1 Sensor Connector (E36) #3 -> Large Connector (E2) #19 Edited October 24, 2013 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Mostly just that the sensor return (Pin #2 on the sensor connector) is going to the correct position in E1 (terminal 1). If you had an open or short then you would be getting P2088 or P2089, respectively. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 (edited) Replaced the sensor. Reflashed a new map. 2 run cycles later and the car is running the best since dropping in the new engine. Both sensors are reading 0-1 degrees at idle like they should with my map. I noticed a Mitsubishi logo on the sensor.. that's the problem right there! Anyway, idle is not as smooth as I'd like but it's much better. I'm hoping to dial in the cams some more but the manifold pressure is oscillating right now. I drove the car on the road for the first time with the new build, and it drives pretty well now! Screen shot of idle right now. any thoughts? I think adjusting idle stability may help. Edited October 25, 2013 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Glad to hear it is resolved! Too bad you did not try between the sensor and the new map, as it would be nice to know for sure which was the culprit (can't really imagine how the map would cause the symptom though). It would be interesting to know how the sensor could fail in a way to send this kind of feedback to the ECU. I don't see anything odd about your screenshot other than the AF Correction drifting high momentarily. Does not seem to indicate a rough idle to me. Perhaps this question is better suited for the tuners out there? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I didn't change much in the new map, just reverted my idle air flow settings since I didn't at first realize the problem was the cam sensor. Before the cams my car would have a flat line AFR and manifold relative pressure. I'll post a separate thread about that on RomRaider. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 If you don't mind, please send me the link to your new thread, as I would like to see the discussion and outcome. Thanks. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10052 I posted a video on that thread also. I am going to try adjusting the delta values in the map and see where that gets me. The throttle response on the car now is amazing.. probably causing the idle to overshoot and undershoot it's target so it just oscillates back and forth. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Did more troubleshooting tonight. Checked continuity for the cam sensor. It's good. Disconnected the oil control solenoid valve on the side giving the most problems and the car ran the best it's run yet. Plugged it back in, and it started acting up. So, I'm either going to use the other pair of used ones that were in working condition with 95k miles or buy a pair of new ones. I think I'll buy new ones. Opposedforces lists two part numbers.. can I use either one? Are driver and passenger side the same? 10921AA020, 10921AA080 Edited October 29, 2013 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz134mx Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I'm bumping this from the dead in hopes of some help! I just got my rebuilt motor back in my 07 Sti and it's throwing P0011. Checked banjo's for filters and swapped OCV's to no avail. Still getting same numbers for right bank in my log (see below). I'm leaning towards a bad cam sprocket at this point. Anyone? Engine doesn't need pulled to pull the sprocket does it? AVCS In. Left (°) AVCS In. Right (°) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 2 3 0 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 7 0 16 0 20 0 19 0 8 0 8 0 11 0 0 0 2 1 5 0 8 0 11 0 14 0 17 0 0 0 3 0 13 0 12 0 11 1 11 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 14 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 19 1 18 0 18 0 17 0 20 0 24 0 25 0 27 0 30 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 32 0 33 0 33 0 20 0 7 0 9 0 13 0 22 0 30 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 31 0 33 0 33 0 34 0 37 0 41 0 41 0 24 0 22 0 22 0 22 0 23 0 24 0 27 0 36 0 43 0 46 0 46 0 46 0 45 0 31 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 11 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 3 0 7 0 9 0 10 0 11 0 11 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 25 0 39 0 43 0 44 0 43 0 15 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 The data is not displaying correctly for me. Did the old engine blow up, requiring the rebuild? If so and the sprocket was reused I would recommend replacing it. You don't need to pull the motor to remove the sprocket. It's essentialy a timing belt job. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz134mx Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) Yes, bought the car as a project, old motor was blown. I'm assuming it was reused but I'll confirm with the shop. Where did you order your's from? And yea, sorry about the data formatting but basically the right bank max's out at 3 whereas the left varies greatly (0-46). Edited October 27, 2014 by yz134mx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 I'm an OEM part vendor. Can hook you up - shoot me a PM with your vin and zip. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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