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Help Request: AVCS Related Problem


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My passenger side cam sensor is reporting 54 degrees of advance intermittently at idle (supposed to be 0) per my logging the VVT advance angle of both sides. I'm going to start with replacing the sensor. The car is idling very rough right now but I'm addressing low fuel pressure and misfiring also.
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I doubt it's the sensor based on the way it works. Is it jumping straight from 0-54 or does it get there gradually? Is the driver side behaving normally?

 

You can swap sensors side-to-side and see if the problem follows to save yourself a couple bucks in diagnosis.

Edited by Underdog
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Let me know if it oscillates regularly, or if it is erratic. Better yet, feel free to send me a log. These are new GSC stage 1 cams? How deep into the wiring harness did you go for the swap? I would check the continuity between E1/E2 and the cam sensor, specifically the signal return wire, before even trying to swap sensors.

 

RH Cam Position Sensor

 

Sensor Connector (E36) #1 -> Large Connector (E2) #48

Sensor Connector (E36) #2 -> Tan Connector (E1) #1

Sensor Connector (E36) #3 -> Large Connector (E2) #19

Edited by Underdog
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It's erratic based on the logs. I can send you the logs later. New GSC S1 cams. I reused all the stock wiring harnesses from the car and reused the original cam sensors that appeared to have no problems prior. I'll check the continuity too. Thanks
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Log? Did you check the pinout? These sensors are incredibly simple devices, so it is unlikely, but not impossible, that yours has failed in a way that would make the signal bounce. In my opinion it is more likely that the slots on your GSC cam were machined incorrectly, although it could be something even simpler.
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If you didn't change it then it is probably fine. However I do find that usually the one thing left unchecked turns out to be the culprit. Depending on where you placed the E1 connector (stock position is under TMIC, and is accessible even with STI style TMIC) it is incredibly simple to check since you are pulling the sensor anyways.

 

I'm pretty confident you are dealing with a signal issue, as the system can not jump from 0-53 instantaneously or even reach 53 degrees anyways. A good example is if you swap the LH and RH signal return to the ECU; the ECU interprets the LH and RH as oscillating because the waveforms are not congruent. In response to this the car idles very poorly, and the AVCS cannot control the cam angle.

Edited by Underdog
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Looking back I'm quoting your post for me to reference later. Check continuity between all 3 wire combinations to each other?

 

 

Let me know if it oscillates regularly, or if it is erratic. Better yet, feel free to send me a log. These are new GSC stage 1 cams? How deep into the wiring harness did you go for the swap? I would check the continuity between E1/E2 and the cam sensor, specifically the signal return wire, before even trying to swap sensors.

 

RH Cam Position Sensor

 

Sensor Connector (E36) #1 -> Large Connector (E2) #48

Sensor Connector (E36) #2 -> Tan Connector (E1) #1

Sensor Connector (E36) #3 -> Large Connector (E2) #19

Edited by Th3Franz
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Replaced the sensor. Reflashed a new map. 2 run cycles later and the car is running the best since dropping in the new engine. Both sensors are reading 0-1 degrees at idle like they should with my map. I noticed a Mitsubishi logo on the sensor.. that's the problem right there! :lol:

Anyway, idle is not as smooth as I'd like but it's much better. I'm hoping to dial in the cams some more but the manifold pressure is oscillating right now. I drove the car on the road for the first time with the new build, and it drives pretty well now!

 

Screen shot of idle right now. any thoughts? I think adjusting idle stability may help.

vlcsnap-2013-10-24-21h45m56s159.png.149b2033ac8fb853a14eab1e4c327a8b.png

Edited by Th3Franz
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Glad to hear it is resolved! Too bad you did not try between the sensor and the new map, as it would be nice to know for sure which was the culprit (can't really imagine how the map would cause the symptom though). It would be interesting to know how the sensor could fail in a way to send this kind of feedback to the ECU.

 

I don't see anything odd about your screenshot other than the AF Correction drifting high momentarily. Does not seem to indicate a rough idle to me. Perhaps this question is better suited for the tuners out there?

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I didn't change much in the new map, just reverted my idle air flow settings since I didn't at first realize the problem was the cam sensor.

 

Before the cams my car would have a flat line AFR and manifold relative pressure. I'll post a separate thread about that on RomRaider.

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http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=10052

 

I posted a video on that thread also. I am going to try adjusting the delta values in the map and see where that gets me. The throttle response on the car now is amazing.. probably causing the idle to overshoot and undershoot it's target so it just oscillates back and forth.

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Did more troubleshooting tonight. Checked continuity for the cam sensor. It's good.

Disconnected the oil control solenoid valve on the side giving the most problems and the car ran the best it's run yet. Plugged it back in, and it started acting up. So, I'm either going to use the other pair of used ones that were in working condition with 95k miles or buy a pair of new ones. I think I'll buy new ones. Opposedforces lists two part numbers.. can I use either one? Are driver and passenger side the same?

10921AA020, 10921AA080

Edited by Th3Franz
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  • 11 months later...

I'm bumping this from the dead in hopes of some help! I just got my rebuilt motor back in my 07 Sti and it's throwing P0011.

 

Checked banjo's for filters and swapped OCV's to no avail. Still getting same numbers for right bank in my log (see below). I'm leaning towards a bad cam sprocket at this point. Anyone? Engine doesn't need pulled to pull the sprocket does it?

 

AVCS In. Left (°) AVCS In. Right (°)

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 2

2 3

0 0

1 0

1 0

1 1

0 1

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 1

0 1

0 1

0 0

0 1

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 0

0 0

1 0

1 0

3 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 1

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 1

7 0

16 0

20 0

19 0

8 0

8 0

11 0

0 0

2 1

5 0

8 0

11 0

14 0

17 0

0 0

3 0

13 0

12 0

11 1

11 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

14 0

0 0

2 0

0 0

0 0

7 0

19 1

18 0

18 0

17 0

20 0

24 0

25 0

27 0

30 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

32 0

33 0

33 0

20 0

7 0

9 0

13 0

22 0

30 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

31 0

33 0

33 0

34 0

37 0

41 0

41 0

24 0

22 0

22 0

22 0

23 0

24 0

27 0

36 0

43 0

46 0

46 0

46 0

45 0

31 0

3 0

0 0

0 0

11 0

3 0

0 0

0 0

1 0

3 0

7 0

9 0

10 0

11 0

11 0

6 0

0 0

0 0

1 0

0 0

0 0

1 1

0 1

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 0

1 1

1 0

1 1

1 1

1 1

1 1

1 1

1 0

1 0

1 0

1 0

1 1

0 0

25 0

39 0

43 0

44 0

43 0

15 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

10 0

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The data is not displaying correctly for me. Did the old engine blow up, requiring the rebuild? If so and the sprocket was reused I would recommend replacing it. You don't need to pull the motor to remove the sprocket. It's essentialy a timing belt job.
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Yes, bought the car as a project, old motor was blown. I'm assuming it was reused but I'll confirm with the shop. Where did you order your's from?

 

And yea, sorry about the data formatting but basically the right bank max's out at 3 whereas the left varies greatly (0-46).

Edited by yz134mx
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