Guest Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Great news!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 (edited) This is what you start with: http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6933/img8003c.jpg 1. Remove sprocket from AVCS mechanism. This uses a T30 tamper-resistant Torx Plus bit. http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/415/img8005cc.jpg 2. Gently pry the sealing flange away from the casing. http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8906/img8006c.jpg 3. Now you can disassemble the mechanism by popping out the middle section. There are six spring-loaded seals that will come apart, but they are easy to reinstall. http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5746/img8007c.jpg http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/5531/img8009c.jpg http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/180/img8010c.jpg The piece on the right is what bolts to the camshaft. Notice how it has a spring loaded plunger that locks into the sprocket carrier? When I pressed it a few times look what came out (no, not the nickel ): http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9746/img8011c.jpg Hopefully this means I was right and the sprocket was getting stuck in the position where the plunger engages (0* would make sense). This would also corroborate with the cold start/reset ECU evidence where the high oil pressure of a cold start was able to unlock the sprocket, but the next time it went to zero, it wouldn't recover. Edited February 27, 2010 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Nice autopsy work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Is that a screw that popped out or a chunk? Those don't look like safety Torx plus Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Rao, I don't get your question. You mean the little chunk of metal? I can't tell what it is but it is very small and seems like it could have been a piece of piston, although I don't know how it would've made it's way by the banjo bolt filter. Is that what you mean? There is a lot of confusion on all the different Torx varieties, even by the people who make them. I used the S-K 84231 shown/mentioned in posts #12 and #16... The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 That is exactly what I mean, form the pictures it looks like it could be a tiny screw. Great news all around Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Gotcha... yeah the pic doesn't do it justice, it is less than a millimeter wide in any direction. Thanks for the feedback people. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Freaking awesome news considering your concerns about oil supply earlier on. I know the oil pump was a different issue as well, but this is great. Can't wait till the tuning continues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Well hopefully the old sprocket is still functional once you reassemble it. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Yeah, but who in their right mind would use it? I mean... I'll sell it to you for $70 Ridgeracer... half price! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredraud Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 for the amount of stuff in that sprocket $140 is cheap.. The bafflement never ceases with subaru parts. Some are retarded expensive and some are made in china cheap. I bought an oem fuelpump assembly for $300 for a 2000 na lgt because someone previously had broken off the supply elbow on the top of the unit, and fixed it by jamming a piece of brakeline in it, and using some hot glue to seal it up.. That was my fuel supply problem, that caused the engine to run lean, blow a head gasket..ect ect. Just the pump from napa was $300, Subaru parts, 300 gave me eveything that sits in the tank!! pump sender gasket ect.. Just wierd.. Congrats that must make you feel good!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 The parts that normally don't break are the ones that are expensive. Underdog....No dice on the sprocket but thx for the pics. Gives us a better idea as to how it works... "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Dibs on the metal chunk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Congrats on the fix, and way to see the project through. Most would have thrown in the towel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devobuzz Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Yes I'm impressed by your perseverance and diagnostic reasoning. Are you a mechanic by trade? The hardest part is figuring out what is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarko Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 I'm having this same issue now I believe. But this seems to be out of my expertise level. Except mine is P0011 instead of P0021. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt125 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 The cam bearing caps on my LGT have channels near the oil seal area. One channel per cap. I am not sure what the function of these channels are. They seem to be very susceptible to blockage with liquid gasket during while installing the caps. Is this a problem? They almost look like they are intended to provide a place for excess liquid gasket to go. I will post some pics later if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Bumpage. Having a similar problem however I'm not getting any codes. Car surges/bucks when the AVCS actuation point is met, 2500rpm. Local guru thinks the dowel pin hole has "ovaled out" which makes the cam gear stick momentarily. Hard part is no code, will log some AVCS and timing stuff to try and pinpoint. Apparently when you reinstall the cam gear the torque spec has to be met very specifically. He had 3 separate examples of ovaled/egged out alignment holes in the gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Bumpage. Having a similar problem however I'm not getting any codes. Car surges/bucks when the AVCS actuation point is met, 2500rpm. Local guru thinks the dowel pin hole has "ovaled out" which makes the cam gear stick momentarily. Hard part is no code,.i experience the same thing in my wife's car. Changed out all the usual suspects that cause a stutter with no improvement. Looks like I need to do some logging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 ^^ Update, as suggested I reloaded my ECU map before going any further. Problem solved. Note I took my kid to school, ran horribly. Got home, uploaded map, not a hint of buck/surge. WTF? Not sure what or why but it runs perfectly now. Didn't log before swapping the map so I don't know exactly what was causing the issue but 200 miles later it's running "normally". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 ^^ Udpate to the update. Car still felt a bit "funny", ie butt dyno thinks things were a bit lean. Hooked up my scan tool, both LT and ST fuel trims were all over the place. Installed an 08 STI fuel pump assy I got from Hicksta today, immediately noticed an improvement. Scanner shows fuel trims much more stable and near zero. Current hypothesis, reloading the ECU map reset the LT trims which made the initial improvement. Car has 138k miles and it appears to be the original FP. Lots of junk in the sock and bottom of the cannister too. Hopefully this is the final fix, I was really mulling the reasoning behind reloading a map only to fix problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilles Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Hi I'm having the same code pop up. Upon inspecting the cam sensor looks like my connector was spliced in. By any chance do you have a picture of the pin position on the plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 UD, what did you do to get the cam sprocket off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 I own the Kent-Moore/SPX cam wrenches. I use those and my electric impact or breaker bar with cheater pipe. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coblue Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) Thanks to my cobb AP, the process of elimination, and this thread I was able to fix my P0021. If you can change the timing belt you can easily do this r&r ( with a hefty 10mm Allen wrench and a cheater bar). I was getting no avcs advance so this thread led me to the avcs plunger sticking. I did not see any debris in mine, but there was some sludge in the corners. I worked the plunger til it moved nicely and then reassembled with some oil inside. I have not seen torque specs for the 6 bolts, but to remove them took 12 NM for the smaller diameter and 20 NM for the larger, so that's what I used for assembly. Pep Boys had a 1/4" drive T30 tamper proof torx plus (5 lobes) for $5. The bolts aren't tamper proof, just 5 lobed. Part number 9687. I tried to prime it by turning the engine over with no fuel, but it still took a mile before it started working. Thanks Underdog, you made this doable for me! Edited April 14, 2013 by coblue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now