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Compilation of available clutches for BP/BL


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I'm really pleased with the Clutchmasters FX350, OEM SMFW and I did the TSK3 kit at the same time. I was experiencing slip at stage 2 (most likely due to abuse from previous owner), and just about done breaking in the CM FX350. They claim 110% more holding power than stock and the pedal is as light as stock with more predictable engagement. Highly recommend it if you are planning even more power!
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yeah same here.... po prob didnt know how to drive . i bought the car with 51k on it. it now has 55k been stage 2 for 4k miles clutch was kinda loosie goosie when i bought it ...

 

im looking for a 06 07 wrx smfw now ... and im going to do the tsk3 tob also , still up in the air about what clutch i want though..

 

buddy of mine has a lgt wagon he did the smfw and tsk3 tob but he went with a company that builds the clutch for what you need and a bit more. his clutch is good for 400 whp and 400 torque. and i drove his car lastnight pedal feels great .. its a bit grabby but .. hes had it on for 10k miles and no complaints..

 

hes getting me a price on the clutch he has today

Edited by 06legsleeper
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ill let ya know willy ... ill be putting mine in with some help from friends that know there leggys and subbies so .. its going to help alot.... ive done clutches in alot of cars .. im just crossing my tee,s and doting my i,s before i jump into this
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  • 8 months later...

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I figure it's a sticky so it won't matter too much.

 

I had purchased an ACT SB5-HDMM clutch from a reseller here back in 2009, and it's been working great, until just recently. The issue I have for the past 2 weeks is that shifting has become almost impossible, as it seems that the clutch is not "releasing" fully. I have to rev-match perfectly to get anything to move at these times. Weird thing is, it changes throughout the drive - for example, last Thursday I drove into work - it was fine in the morning, but was not releasing by the time I got near my work place... so bad that even with the clutch fully depressed, releasing the brake would cause the car to pull forward (like an automatic car would)... even stopped it would struggle to keep idling (never fully stalled, fortunately).

 

I (and the shop the car is at now) have checked the clutch hydraulics, and they seem to be working fine. I flushed and bled the system, to no avail. There are no noises or other issues to report - just this problem. I've heard that when a clutch wears out, the engagement point gets higher on the pedal, and this is effectively "too low" on the pedal... but I'm not sure. I'm very happy with the clutch, but I'm wondering if this is something else? Any ideas?

 

Note that there are no other noises, and it does disengage "sometimes"... and it's quiet when this happens... so I don't think it's a jammed-spring, as at least one other ACT owner has shown (on a different thread). The carhas 115k on it now, so I figure the clutch probably has about 80k on it... not bad, honestly.

 

In addition, if I do need to replace the clutch (as I expect I may need to) I'm considering alternatives... primarily to reduce the pedal force. I hear the Clutchmasters might be up my alley... but I also read that every aftermarket brand seems to have its "issues"... can someone summarize what these issues might be?

 

For example, I've heard CMs have some chattering issues? Too soft a pedal feel? Or early failures on the FX300 (now replaced with the FX350?)... and though I had a good experience with the ACT, what am I in for now that people have had more time on them...? I know the pedal is heavy (but apparently, I and my wife are able to manage it fine)... and I guess some have had spring and other such failures... anything else?

 

I've been out of the game for a while here... so I just wanted to get a quick catchup, please!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to provide an update, now that the "car saga" (as my wife called it) is over.

 

Car was in the shop for over a week, as we tried to figure out what was wrong. Between myself, a mechanic friend, and a good shop in my area, we all tried finding the problem. Tried flushing and bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Checked the movement of all these parts, and none of us found anything wrong. No leaks, no sticking, no bleed-by on the mechanism either. So much for hoping it was a simple fix... so into the clutch we went.

 

Longer story short, they ended up finding the problem: A broken pressure plate spring floating around inside. I would have thought this would cause it to never-release (as others have found, eg: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/act-lgt-hd-street-clutch-failure-206067.html )... mine released sometimes, and then not at others. Also, I'd expect a scraping noise or something, if this was jammed inside... but that didn't happen either. Weird. I didn't take any pictures of my pressure plate, as the picture in this thread was pretty much exactly what I had happen.

 

Anyway, problem is solved now. I switched to a Clutchmasters FX300 clutch... certainly a MUCH lighter pedal feel. Very grabby, as it grabs right off the floor... I guess this is normal for these clutches.

 

I can't complain too much about the ACT, as I did get 62k miles out of it (I made a mistake in my math above)... but it is disappointing to see it fail due to the spring, instead of just wearing out... probably could have gotten more out of it.

 

Many thanks to the shop, FasTrack Automotive in Peabody, MA (http://www.fastrackservice.com) for dealing with the troubleshooting, parts shipping delays, etc along the way... these guys are excellent and thorough in their work!

Edited by schwinn
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  • 2 weeks later...

^^ I would have guess that you had a problem with the PP.

 

This sticky needs updating. I am in the need to replace the Spec B clutch, and will be going with an Exedy Twin Hyper HD. The part number is FM022HD and it includes a flywheel, but no TO or Pilot bearing.

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/race/FM022HD

 

Specs:

Disc Size 200mm

Spline Teeth / Major Dia 24T / 25.2mm

Clamping Force/Load exerted (lbs) 2653

Disc Material Ceramic

Number of Disc Twin

Type (Push/Pull) Pull

Sprung Center (D-core) Yes

Clutch Torque 1106

Torque Capacity at Wheels 615

Flywheel to Crank Bolt ft-lb 55

PP Assby. to Flywheel ft-lb 23

 

One thing I noticed on their website is that the FM022SD is not found to have a application for the Spec B, but is for the STi.

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/race/FM022SD

 

Specs:

Disc Size 200mm

Spline Teeth / Major Dia 24T / 25.2mm

Clamping Force/Load exerted (lbs) 2653

Disc Material Ceramic

Number of Disc Twin

Type (Push/Pull) Pull

Sprung Center (D-core) Yes

Clutch Torque 919

Torque Capacity at Wheels 615

Flywheel to Crank Bolt ft-lb 55

PP Assby. to Flywheel ft-lb 23

 

Other Exedy Clutches:

 

Stage 1 Organic with HD PP.

http://www.exedyusa.com/race/15803HD

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  • 5 months later...
Anyone know if it's a good idea to resurface a pressure plate? My Southbend one has just a little surface rust and light glazing. Or maybe I should just get a new one?
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  • 5 months later...
Should I go with act or just get a south bend stage 2?

Short answer: depends.

Long answer: depends on what you've already done, what you plan to do, what you want it to feel like, what you want it to sound like, how much money you have, how long you want the clutch to last... I don't want to be just another guy that says "search", but there are far too many variables involved.

 

There are tons of really good threads on here about clutches/flywheels/everything under the sun, my advise is to read as many of them as you can stand, and then make a purchase based on your budget and what you've read.

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  • 1 month later...

Update on my Spec 2 clutch. 49,000 miles. It has begun the slip in 5th gear when its cold. After it warms up, it fine. It's been below freezing for a few weeks now, the car with the big Mishimoto radiator takes a while to warm up, maybe 4 or 5 miles. THe clutch will need another few minutes beyond that.

 

In 45 years of driving clutch's I've never had one do this.

 

My old Spec 2+ never did this. The wagon was not at this power level for most of the 2+'s life, that one was still stong at 85,000 miles. I'll replace this 2 with a 2+.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I installed Exedy Stage 1 (#15804) in September. I have about 5-6,000 miles on it. I was not a fan for the first few weeks. The pedal was extremely stiff and resulted in a sore foot. After about 1,000 miles it started to break in and I was used to it. I like it now and would use it again. It's still on the stiff side but the pedal feel and feedback is good. I have not pushed it hard so I can't speak much to how it holds up yet.
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About 450 miles ago I installed the Competition Clutch (brand) stock replacement clutch kit for '06-'14 WRX's / '05-'09 LGT's (this one) from RallySportDirect. Everything fit perfectly except the pressure plate slapped the dust cover on the underside of the tranny. The noise sounded like a thousand hornets destroying my transmission (vid

), but I didn't find out it was a simple fix until after I opened up the tranny for a second time... all I had to do was bend down the dust cover a little bit so it didn't come into contact with the pressure plate = problem solved. Learn from my mistake: if you redo your clutch and hear something that sounds like Satan driving a Nascar, check the dust cover before you tear everything out again.

 

My new clutch insn't fully broken in yet but so far I'm very happy with it.

Oh yeah, and no engine codes or weird noises from the lightweight flywheel.

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In addition to tools here's what you'll need (assuming you're doing the flywheel):

 

  • TP50 socket/bit to remove the flywheel (torx and torx+ aren't the same shape, so the "+" is very important. I got mine on amazon [ame=http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O846UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]here[/ame])
  • Flywheel (I reused the OEM torx+ bolts & the flywheel bearing)
  • Friction plate (nothing else needed)
  • Pressure plate (mine included new bolts)
  • Throw-out bearing (not always necessary, but why not do it while you're in there?)
  • Alignment tool (cheap-o plastic, should come with your kit)
  • Grease for the driveshaft (people often argue about the type/brand)
  • You'll probably also want/need a can of PB Blaster (brand) penetrating oil.
  • Sticker for your window *optional, but generally agreed upon as an unproven performance enhancer*

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Yes you need a T50 + torx.

 

The pilot bearing should come with new clutch kit.

 

You grease the snout on the tranny where the TOB slides. I put alight film of grease on the splines and the tip of the input shaft where it slides into the pilot bearing.

 

You'll need exhaust gaskets for the DP to mid pipe, may be some new bolts and nuts for there too. Any 3/8 by 2" bolt with washers will work.

 

You can see pictures of the T50+ in my click here link.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 5 months later...

Have read this thread about available clutches, lots of information, but I live overseas, the the east - in Sweden and I´m not born with english, but what

I understand is that this exedy clutch is working towards a 05-06 gt?

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications (FJK1001FW)

 

 

And because Amazon seems not to sell oversea, than this schould be the same kit on ebay?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-RACE-FLYWHEEL-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-LEGACY-GT-2-5L-TURBO-EJ255-/400489407221?hash=item5d3f0762f5&vxp=mtr#shpCntId

 

best regards

Lars

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Have you gone to Exedy's site and checked out those clutches. The prices look real good.

 

See if someone like Underdog can help you out, PM him.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 5 months later...

hi everyone,

 

my car has been making this loud clanking noise under the intercooler so I took it to the shop and was told I need a clutch and flywheel. what is a good clutch and flywheel I should be running? and how much? my car's internals are unmodified. any recommendations are appreciated.

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Southbend Clutches need to be added to the original post as a Solid option for our cars! Most of the vendors are selling them now and recommending them. Please add!! Thanks!

03 WRB WRX (RIP)

04 JBP STI (sold)

07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP)

12 OBP STI (DD)

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