Compilation of available clutches for BP/BL

[trackhore]

Do you think it's something to do with cold weather? I'm not having any problem like that out in So Cal. I only get a slight shutter only when I back out my driveway in the morning. The rest of the day it's fine and I have driven it in LA stop and go traffic.

Drives slightly better when cold here, which would mean Cali would be an even worse environment for my car. I called clutch masters and they assured me all was normal and that the lighter single mass flywheel would unmask driveline shock and some shudder. Lol, 4 lbs lighter, but still oem weight, I had to bite my tongue not to laugh at him. If I try to engage 1st gear with no throttle and very gradual clutch pedal movement, like I do from time to time in extreme stop and go traffic, the car bucks and bangs, and it sounds like my exhaust is going to fall off. The clutch drives like a puck design, nothing disk about it.

[itsme]

Wow, my car drives nothing like that. Are you using your stock flywheel? I thought that '07+ LGT had the same flywheel and the WRX.

[trackhore]

OEM WRX single mass flywheel

[cypher0117]

I've only had my fx300 in for ~60 miles but the only sounds I hear from it are a very very faint decel chatter in the 3k to 2k rpm range. Faint enough that all windows need to be closed and the radio needs to be off to hear it, otherwise the chatter is drowned out. Engagement seems very smooth. I can drive this setup (fx300 oem smfw) smoother than the stock dmfw setup and the lwfw setup I had in my car briefly.

[trackhore]

I've only had my fx300 in for ~60 miles but the only sounds I hear from it are a very very faint decel chatter in the 3k to 2k rpm range. Faint enough that all windows need to be closed and the radio needs to be off to hear it, otherwise the chatter is drowned out. Engagement seems very smooth. I can drive this setup (fx300 oem smfw) smoother than the stock dmfw setup and the lwfw setup I had in my car briefly.

WTF, it's like I have a completely different clutch installed. What have the ambient temps been like where you live? It was hi 50's here this morning and the clutch was much more forgiving in 1st and reverse, but definitely not what I would call smoother than OEM.

[cypher0117]

It's been 50's and 60's here as of late in Iowa.

 

I'm no clutch expert by any means, but it sounds like something might not be properly torqued down. Or maybe the clutch disk was put in backwards. Did you or a shop do the work?

[trackhore]

A reputable Subaru shop did the install. I've noticed a direct correlation with ambient temperature and driveability. Low 70's and above, the clutch shudders and chatters like it was a 6-puck designed to hold 1000lb/ft of torque when starting from a dead stop. Cooler temps, high 50's and below, it's a little more tame, almost acceptable.

 

Once the car is moving, there are no driveability issues while shifting or extraneous noises of any kind. Aside from 1st and reverse, my only other complaint is the clutch grabs quickly and makes smooth engagement in traffic a little trickier. This will be easily overcome once I've gotten used to driving it more. I'm currently at 450miles of stop and go city driving with next to no highway cruising miles. I've seen no change in behavior as the break-in has progressed.

 

It's been 50's and 60's here as of late in Iowa.

 

I'm no clutch expert by any means, but it sounds like something might not be properly torqued down. Or maybe the clutch disk was put in backwards. Did you or a shop do the work?

[cypher0117]

hmm. It's going to be 80s here tomorrow and wednesday (assuming those weather guys are right), I'll have to see what my clutch does in the warm.

 

When I had my lwfw in the car it definitely chattered, but I never heard anything that sounded like pots and pans banging around.

 

Have you taken it back to the shop and complained about it? They should be liable for their workmanship

[itsme]

hmm. It's going to be 80s here tomorrow and wednesday (assuming those weather guys are right), I'll have to see what my clutch does in the warm.

 

When I had my lwfw in the car it definitely chattered, but I never heard anything that sounded like pots and pans banging around.

 

Have you taken it back to the shop and complained about it? They should be liable for their workmanship

 

+ 1. Was your FW new or used? Did they clean the FW before they installed it? Did my own install and I cleaned my FW with brake cleaner before I installed it to make sure FW surface was free of any oils.

[trackhore]

When I had my lwfw in the car it definitely chattered, but I never heard anything that sounded like pots and pans banging around.

 

Have you taken it back to the shop and complained about it? They should be liable for their workmanship

The banging noise is the result of my exhaust hitting something on the underside of the car, likely due to the fact that the downpipe is anchored to the transmission. The shop is not conveniently located for me to get back to with my recent schedule. I called Clutch Masters and they weren't concerned about the symptoms I described.

 

+ 1. Was your FW new or used? Did they clean the FW before they installed it? Did my own install and I cleaned my FW with brake cleaner before I installed it to make sure FW surface was free of any oils.

My flywheel was new, WRX single mass. I would ASSume that even if the tech had not wiped down the new flywheel, the surface contaminants would have burned off by now seeing as how the clutch must be slipped between 1,500-2,000 RPM in 1st gear.

[cypher0117]

Well, my car said it was 81 when I left work today. The clutch felt a little stickier/grabbier, but still was still easy enough to engage smoothly. No abnormal sounds/vibrations/shuddering.

 

I also cleaned my flywheel when I installed everything. irregardless, I don't think the oils would still be there after 50 miles.

 

Was your tob making noise? did you have the mechanic inspect the snout? maybe your snout was damaged and the new tob isn't sliding well on it. I would assume that things were installed properly, and that would be the only thing I could think of that would cause engagement problems.

 

That or maybe their is air in your clutch line. bleeding your clutch is simple enough. Doing that won't hurt anything but I don't think it will resolve your problem.

[trackhore]

New TOB was installed. No snout damage on the trans. 50* this morning when I left the house, car "almost" drove like stock. After my 20 minute drive, there was a little more shudder in 1st, but better than days past when it was warmer out.

 

What happens when you try to engage 1st gear from a dead stop without using any throttle, feathering the clutch out very slowly?

 

Normally temperature related issues can mean air in the hydraulic lines, but the air wouldn't have magically appeared with the installation of the new clutch. But, I have been meaning to bleed the master cylinder since it's not that difficult a task.

Well, my car said it was 81 when I left work today. The clutch felt a little stickier/grabbier, but still was still easy enough to engage smoothly. No abnormal sounds/vibrations/shuddering.

 

I also cleaned my flywheel when I installed everything. irregardless, I don't think the oils would still be there after 50 miles.

 

Was your tob making noise? did you have the mechanic inspect the snout? maybe your snout was damaged and the new tob isn't sliding well on it. I would assume that things were installed properly, and that would be the only thing I could think of that would cause engagement problems.

 

That or maybe their is air in your clutch line. bleeding your clutch is simple enough. Doing that won't hurt anything but I don't think it will resolve your problem.

[itsme]

Mine will only shutter slightly if I like my clutch out like that.

[cypher0117]

haven't feathered my clutch. I have noticed though that if my right foot lags behind the left foot a bit (clutch starts to grab before I give it gas), the car will shutter once or twice and then just grab and go. The shuddering, in this instance is probably due to the inherent design of the clutch not being full face. Anything more than slight shudder, I don't know what would cause it.

[FSRBIKER]

I have a 2005 Legacy Outback XT that I am trying to find a decent clutch setup for. Im on a tight budget as my kids come first and Xmas is coming so the timing for me really sucks.

 

If I am researching correctly a 2006 WRX setup will work on my 2005 XT:

 

If so is this a reasonable setup, my only power mods are a custom tune via a 1st Gen Accessport.

 

Exedy FJK1001 clutch kit

ACT 600480 Streetlight flywheel

new flywheel bolts(should these be for a stock 2006 WRX??)

new throwout bearing clips

 

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated as I plan on replacing it next weekend.

[itsme]

I have a 2005 Legacy Outback XT that I am trying to find a decent clutch setup for. Im on a tight budget as my kids come first and Xmas is coming so the timing for me really sucks.

 

If I am researching correctly a 2006 WRX setup will work on my 2005 XT:

 

If so is this a reasonable setup, my only power mods are a custom tune via a 1st Gen Accessport.

 

Exedy FJK1001 clutch kit

ACT 600480 Streetlight flywheel

new flywheel bolts(should these be for a stock 2006 WRX??)

new throwout bearing clips

 

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated as I plan on replacing it next weekend.

It seems ok but, why do you want to go with the light Flywheel?

[FSRBIKER]

I found the ACT for $230 locally and the stock flywheel is allot more expensive. I wouldn't mind the faster spooling of the turbo, had a lightened flywheel in a 240Z and it made a huge difference in that car. I will be losing some low rpm driveability with this flywheel from what I read, any other downfalls?

 

I have 75000 miles on the car so that's the reason i'm wanting to replace the flywheel, plus using a WRX clutch should be a stronger setup then the stock one since that's the same as a non turbo car.

 

Can someone confirm this for me please. The 2006 WRX clutch setup with flywheel and new bolts will fit my 2005 Outback XT?

 

ANY input would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

Sent from my HTC ThunderBolt using Tapatalk

Edited October 8, 2011 by FSRBIKER

[itsme]

I found the ACT for $230 locally and the stock flywheel is allot more expensive. I wouldn't mind the faster spooling of the turbo, had a lightened flywheel in a 240Z and it made a huge difference in that car. I will be losing some low rpm driveability with this flywheel from what I read, any other downfalls?

 

I have 75000 miles on the car so that's the reason i'm wanting to replace the flywheel, plus using a WRX clutch should be a stronger setup then the stock one since that's the same as a non turbo car.

 

Can someone confirm this for me please. The 2006 WRX clutch setup with flywheel and new bolts will fit my 2005 Outback XT?

 

ANY input would be GREATLY appreciated.

I have a '06+ stock flywheel on my car and I ordered all my clutch parts for a '06 WRX. So, yes what you have will work.

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[garygbnj]

If applicable will the 06 oem clutch take 295 wheel horsepower (330 flywheel hp)?

 

thanks

[trackhore]

If applicable will the 06 oem clutch take 295 wheel horsepower (330 flywheel hp)?

 

thanks

Depends how you drive it.

[itsme]

depends how you drive it.

+1

[paintpollz]

2007 LGTs have SMFWs right?

[trackhore]

yes

[KartRacerBoy]

If applicable will the 06 oem clutch take 295 wheel horsepower (330 flywheel hp)?

 

thanks

 

My 05 has been stage 2 since 15k miles so probably similar hp, and at 101k the clutch is within days of giving up the ghost. Stock clutch.

 

I don't dump the clutch and am a pretty gentle daily driver. Nor do usually accelerate hard. So as said, it depends on how you drive.

[YN-TGL]

So I need a new clutch (AGAIN). This clutch is an ACT HD Street Clutch With ACT Streetlite Flywheel (chatters like a mofo). It was installed about 2 years ago and has about 30,000 miles on it. NEVER been launched or beat on in anyway. The other day I was driving in traffic and all of a sudden the pedal stiffened up and it started vibrating and chattering like crazy and engaging very high on the pedal.

 

Took it to my mechanic and he said it seems like I bent my pressure plate but he'd have to the tranny to know for sure.

 

MODS:

Fully bolted

VF-52

750cc Inj

AVO FP

Perrin TMIC

Etc...

 

Power: 316whp (on a Dyno Dynamics rig, numbers may be a little higher than actual)

 

So before I pull my tranny I'm going to order another clutch so if I do need to replace it I have the parts on hand since this is my only car and I want to minimize downtime.

 

So I obviously not going with ACT again, 2 years and 30K miles on a "high performance" clutch that has not been abused is sub par to say the least.

 

Possible replacement choice:

Exedy Stage 1

CM FX200 or FX300

 

Question - Based on my mods and power levels do you think the Exedy Stage 1 (The cheapest) would be sufficient. And if I went with the CM, should I go for the FX300 over the FX200 based on my power levels?

 

TIA