lucas569 Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Chatter is usually caused by a warped flywheel, at least initially, and off-the-car you can detect the warp by the blue pin-spots (up to ~1/2"-3/4" in diameter on the surface. You can also straight-edge the FW and check it that way. If you allow the chatter to go on too long, you eventually do damage to the entire drivetrain, especially if it's severe chatter. At stage 2.5 I have not been happy with my WRX/ACT setup and am going back to the stock setup which worked very well for 100K miles. WRX FW and ACT HD clutch never felt right from day one and I'm really tired of the associated noise and engagement chatter on launch. It grips well when engaged but it has really taken the joy out of driving the car when all the other things are considered. And I have the TSK3 on as well, which I will likely leave on when I change out the ACT setup. i hAve the ACT set up as well but with full face disc, never have had chatter but i hate the insane pressure. im driving a Subaru not a ford bucket truck. im going with the stock 07+lgt/wrx clutch in the next 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 LMK how that goes (07LGT setup). Also, if you're really feeling that the clutch pedal is getting too hard to push, check your slave cylinder...and MC to SC line...might be slow-leaking and getting some air in the system. That's what I had with mine. Fixed it, bled the system and all's good now. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 it never felt right from day one and I'm really tired of the associated noise and engagement chatter on launch. It grips well when engaged but it has really taken the joy out of driving the car when all the other things are considered. Well said. Stay Stock Stay Happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I have seen a lot of chatter complaints about the act setup but not a huge amount of feedback on the clutchmasters fx300. I am sitting at about 380-400tq corrected with the hta68 on e85 and was very happy with my clutchmasters df in my talon. Any feedback asap is appreciated, i might buy today because of the black friday specials. Thanks in advance. Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 I drove a friend's ACT setup and got no chatter at all. That makes me wonder if the problem is the clutch, the installation, or something else... I dunno. I really liked the way his clutch felt, and was looking into getting one. I was disappointed when I read that it wouldn't survive my turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 I have the clutchmaster and I have no chatter with my 20g. I have seen a lot of chatter complaints about the act setup but not a huge amount of feedback on the clutchmasters fx300. I am sitting at about 380-400tq corrected with the hta68 on e85 and was very happy with my clutchmasters df in my talon. Any feedback asap is appreciated, i might buy today because of the black friday specials. Thanks in advance. Dave Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 itsme - Which variant and where acquired? NSFW - how many miles on your friend's ACT? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 I dunno. He's Tracer-X on this forum, you could PM him. I'll ask next time I see him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 itsme - Which variant and where acquired? NSFW - how many miles on your friend's ACT? FX300 it hooks so well I thought I broke tranny. So I took a friends advice that my center diff was gone and I got a new tranny. Well the noise wasn't the tranny it was the turbo. So hopefully I can tell you how the clutch holds up to a 20G 7cm hot , EWG, and a New Billet wheel. I want to see how close I can get to make 20psi at 3000 rpms. I got it for about $580 shipped. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 I've had my Bully hybrid stage 2 disc and stage 4 PP on for about 8,000km (5 months) now. And now that the temperatures are down at the freezing mark I'm starting to experience slip in 4th & 5th gear at 12+psi boost. I'm wondering if full Kevlar is not up to the task of constant rush-hour stop'n-go traffic everyday. I don't launch or beat on this clutch, it's babied actually. My shifts are at 3,000RPM engaging the next gear around 2,000RPM. I also do a lot of engine braking slipping the clutch as I approach a stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I got the old clutch out and looking at it there is a lot of red dust. What exactly causes red dust? I cleaned the engine and bell housing before putting it all back together. The Exedy web site lists a couple of alignment issues that can cause red dust, one being engine to tranny alignment. From my pictures it's concentrated on the throwout bear side, could it be the bearing wearing badly? It was never noisy even in the cold (-12C). This time I decided to go with a completely different setup. I put in a stock OEM 2006 WRX flywheel and Exedy Stage 1 clutch with full organic disc. The pedal feel is very different from the Bully setup. When pressing the pedal down it's light then there's the same feeling as before (about 1/2 way) but then it feels like you go over a pressure peak and then it's very light. I'd say the pressure curve over pedal travel is somewhat Bell Curve shaped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optyks Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I'm looking to replace the OEM clutch here in the next couple months. I've never really needed to choose a clutch before, so here are my thoughts and questions should someone feel free to help me Currently, I'm just tuned to stage one, although I'll probably have a decatted uppipe installed with the clutch, and intend on doing more power mods in the future. Because of this, I figured (and i don't know if this is true or not, please give me insight) i should go with a ceramic clutch, since it handles launching and power better. If that's not true, what would be the best "all purpose" type clutch for mild to moderate loads on a 60 mile round trip to work daily basis? I probably do about 75-90% highway driving, 10-25% stop and go city driving. Do organic disks ever stand up reliably over time for that kind of use and abuse? Kevlar? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 For what you've described, I think the stock clutch setup is more than adequate unless you're thinking of doing consistent 5K RPM launches. I went to 100K on the stock clutch and 40K of that at Stage 2+ and I've towed since ~5K miles. But I upgraded to ACT HD at 104K and now a few Ks later, I'm going back to stock setup. Just cannot abide by the noise and chatter on the WRX FW with the ACT HD setup. Of course, YMMV - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) I was on the fence, too, SBT. 110K on the stock clutch... now slipping consistently in 5th over 10 psi boost. Actually running the car detuned now for several weeks to get to warmer weather. I had a stock setup waiting... but decided to go with a WRX SM fly and ACT HD setup. Should be putting that into the car in the next few weeks. I'm Stg 2.5 .... 18 psi boost. Edited January 17, 2011 by mccorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I'm replying to myself here... I took the my old parts over to Bully clutch for an evaluation. The PP measured around 3300lbs of force (I think that's the measure). So no issue there. When they saw it they indicated it has all the signs of a clutch that got hot a lot either due to riding the clutch pedal (which I don't do) or not being fully engaged. The "not fully engaged" part is most likely the reason but I have yet to figure out the cause. As when the clutch was fully engaged I could easily move the release fork side to side and push it into the slave as indicated in the manual and see the fluid go up in the reservoir. It is rebuild-able so I'll keep it till the next change comes, which may not be far off if the problem persists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zavar Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I bought LBGTs Bully setup from him (Stage 2/4 Hybrid) about 5 months ago and installed it with a new 06 WRX flywheel and TSK snout kit... It was installed at a local shop, but now I'm getting paranoid about it going. I'm not seeing any slip in the cold weather (at Stage 2). What needs to be specifically checked and/or adjusted to ensure proper engagement/disengagement and what's the best way to check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 That's a good question. And if I had the answer I could pass it on but right now I'm at a loss. The thing that is different between our setups is the FW (ACT vs OEM). Now I'm running the same as you and I know something is different about it (for the better I think). Here's some additional history. I don't think you should be worried. He ran that setup for years without issue on the same car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredraud Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 That's a good question. And if I had the answer I could pass it on but right now I'm at a loss. The thing that is different between our setups is the FW (ACT vs OEM). Now I'm running the same as you and I know something is different about it (for the better I think). Here's some additional history. I don't think you should be worried. He ran that setup for years without issue on the same car. I had the exact same issue as you this summer with exact same setup. No free play on the clutch fork and roasted disc. Bully was saying it was pedal adjustment, but as with you, slave cylinder off the fork was bottomed out. My engine is apart waiting for some parts and some pistons. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 So you're the guy? Frank mentioned to me someone out west was having a similar problem as me. I'm leaning toward the FW as the cause but not sure how to prove it unless you know how to get into the bell housing when the car's all back together and measure some tolerances and see what's going on. Maybe a job for some PA tools here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zavar Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I guess I'll have to check the free play this weekend and see if there is any. When the clutch was installed I don't believe any adjustment was made to the pedal. What else could be the difference with this setup if the FW dimensions are so close? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I don't know and now I wish I had made the same measurements with my new setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredraud Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I guess I'll have to check the free play this weekend and see if there is any. When the clutch was installed I don't believe any adjustment was made to the pedal. What else could be the difference with this setup if the FW dimensions are so close? Sorry but this pedal adj is irritating me!! Pedal adjustment like I explained to Patrick and frank has f&@k all to do with it! I can remove the pedal and slave cylinder and the fork is still tight!! IMHO there is not enough free play, after the break in. I have a feeling the disc thickness under clamp is thinner than the oem causing the diaphragm springs to be more towards the rear or the car, causing the fork to bottom out near the front. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 (edited) You mean like in these pictures. See how the lever is tight against the front of the case! I ground some of that away to give some clearance. I'm not sure if this is helpful to anyone. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsbOfXsFQ2g]Video of free play.[/ame] It shows the play with the worn clutch before I removed it, then the new stuff. At the end of it you can see the case metal I removed to accommodate the thicker ACT FW and Bully clutch. Pedal adjustment like I explained to Patrick and frank has f&@k all to do with it! Yah I explained the pedal free play to them as well. In the end I don't think the diaphragm tips are as flat as they should be. In the picture you can see how high the finger tips are. I tried to measure it. My new setup the tips were nearly flat (sorry no pic). Edited January 22, 2011 by dschultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 will these work? thanks. http://clutchflywheel.com/fidanza/fidanza_flywheel_aluminum/110251/i-264804.aspx?googlebase=110251-08 http://clutchflywheel.com/act/act_component_clutch_disc_organic/3000502/i-50625.aspx?googlebase=3000502-15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 For the 06 WRX conversion, I don't see why not. You just need to add the clutch cover (pressure plate) to the list and a TOB. Make sure the flywheel comes with a new pilot bearing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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