MissJapaneseSubaru Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 when you where unloading the cams was the belt still attached or did u remove it? on step 13-14 it doesnt say if the belt was removed just that the bottom of the belt was slid off of the lower pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 when you where unloading the cams was the belt still attached or did u remove it? on step 13-14 it doesnt say if the belt was removed just that the bottom of the belt was slid off of the lower pulley. You need to get the belt out of the way yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissJapaneseSubaru Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 lol another question im doing this saturday and just want to make sure all things are covered. before removing belt make sure all timing lines match. i didnt think it was ok to turn the cams while the belt was off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 lol another question im doing this saturday and just want to make sure all things are covered. before removing belt make sure all timing lines match. i didnt think it was ok to turn the cams while the belt was off. Its fine as long as you turn them the correct way so they do not bang the valves together. Just make sure everything is lined back up when you put the belt back on its not hard. Check youtube for subaru timing belt install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubN00b Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Awesome write up and pics! Thanks! First question: In the pic under step step 11, the cam holder you made appears to be on the passenger side. Why is this? Just to hold the tbelt in place once the marks are lined up? Second question: I have seen others (MercedesDieselGuy) describe locking the flexplate in order to facilitate loosening the crackshaft pully and cams. Assuming you're familiar with this method, do you know if I would still need to unload the cams? Seams like if the flexplate (and thus engine?) is locked, the cams would also be locked - is that correct? Maybe I'm thinking of this all wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Can't answer as to why the OP did this, but following other advice, I just use a spring clip to hold the drivers intake cam belt in place. Now I've only used this method about 10 times, but it has worked w/o a hitch. Locking the flexplate is only for the crank pulley. The cams rotate independently. Pull the covers and use a 1" open end to hold the cams, while you wrench on them. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subielover420 Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Great write up ill be using this very soon. I have the service manual and it doesnt even say anything about not letting the driver side valves slam shut. Where did you get all your parts at? Yeah tell me about it! I'm trying to do mine right now and I was going off my Haynes manual and it didn't say shit! Now I'm trying to figure out what to do because my cams are out like 45 degrees and I don't want to mess anything up. Can anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 if the crank is in the correct position you can rotate the cams. The intake rotates clockwise(to right), the exhaust counterclockwise. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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