Map transfer question.

[GTTuner]

I want to sell my AP. I'm all set with open source hardware and software. Here is what I was thinking of doing. I presently am running a protuner base map and a realtime (both TDC) thru my AP. Once my engine is back together I'll be starting this.

 

What I was thinking to start;

 

Read the current ROM image. (the TDC base map). Then take the MickeyD stage 2 and lay all of the TDC map tables over the MD map. Unmarry my AP and flash the modified MD map and datalog then tune from there.

 

What concerns me is I can't really see the realtime map (is this a correct statement?). I got the realtime from TDC to lay over my base K&N TDC stage 2 when I went to the 18g. Anything I should be concerned about? I am assuming the realtime map is mostly updated wastegate tables? I am worried about the fuel tables as well as the timing tables more that the wastegate table.

 

Advice please!

[NSFW]

The basic idea seems reasonable, but the first step would be to find out for sure (no assuming ) what tables you can actually view, and what tables you cannot view.

 

Anything in ROM can be viewed in RomRaider/EcuFlash. Anything not in ROM (i.e. the real time stuff) you're going to need to find a way to view it or you're going to need to tune it yourself. It's not terribly hard if you're willing to invest some time learning and logging and tuning.

 

The TDC tune will probably give you a good place to start, but note that if you re-use tables from it you cannot post your tune at RomRaider due to the proprietary information. Consider tuning from scratch and just using the TDC tables (if you can actually view the important ones) as a reference.

[GTTuner]

Good info, the realtime stuff is what i'm worried about. I suppose I can look at data logs before and after to tidy them up.

Where did Mike from TDC end up after they closed?

[Ridgeracer]

He should still be around. Check for TuningAlliance on AIM.

[LittleBlueGT]

AFAIK the way TDC did their tunes often relied on the RT map for many things.

 

Feel free to read the ROM, learn from it, possibly copy over tables, but DO NOT EVER COPY THAT ROM BACK TO THE CAR. Start with a fresh ROM and modify the tables how you see fit from the TDC map or MikeyD's map.

 

An ECU that has been married to an AP has fundamental changes made to it to enable RT tuning. You do not want the headaches possible associated with it. (ie: you read a ROM, then you also read the RT data, but can't see it in RR, then you mod some tables and put it back on the car, but what you don't see is that you just put that RT map back on the car that was there before you began)

 

Makes sense?

[Boostin1657615274]

I presently am running a protuner base map and a realtime (both TDC) thru my AP. Once my engine is back together I'll be starting this.

I have never personally used a ProTune map, but I'm a little confused about this. On AccessTuner Race, when you modify any maps they are considered "realtime" maps unless they are converted to I believe a .ptm file for reflash. If the battery is disconnected, any changes since the last reflash will be lost.

 

I have personally taken Cobb's stage 2 93 octane map, played around with it during realtime tuning, then converted the file format and reflashed the ECU with the changes.

 

What makes this confusing is that Cobb changed their file formats at some point, maybe when they started offering AccessTuner Race.

[LittleBlueGT]

I have never personally used a ProTune map, but I'm a little confused about this. On AccessTuner Race, when you modify any maps they are considered "realtime" maps unless they are converted to I believe a .ptm file for reflash. If the battery is disconnected, any changes since the last reflash will be lost.

 

I have personally taken Cobb's stage 2 93 octane map, played around with it during realtime tuning, then converted the file format and reflashed the ECU with the changes.

 

What makes this confusing is that Cobb changed their file formats at some point, maybe when they started offering AccessTuner Race.

 

 

Old AP is a little different then new AP. I have used both a fair bit.

 

I have an old AP with ST, I have read that ROM with ECUflash, and then I have modded certain "base map" tables, and flashed that exact ROM back to my car. I can now overlay that with a RT map from my ST software. When I flash (via ECUflash) a RR modded ST base map to my car, I can then use ST and see that there are in fact different RT values still there. (I assume from when I originally took a copy of that ROM).

[GTTuner]

I kind of understand what your saying. I certainly would not take a map from my AP and copy over that. I was thinking of using the Cobb/TDC map as a guide to modify a MickyD stage 2, then flash the modified MickyD and tune from there once my AP is unmarried. Does that seem feasable?

[LittleBlueGT]

I kind of understand what your saying. I certainly would not take a map from my AP and copy over that. I was thinking of using the Cobb/TDC map as a guide to modify a MickyD stage 2, then flash the modified MickyD and tune from there once my AP is unmarried. Does that seem feasable?

 

yes it does.

[j255c]

Be careful. I had tdc map for my 20g on an AP v1 with some RT alterations. I unmarried my accessport, but no matter how many times I changed the wg duty and boost targets it always shot up to 24 psi. Eventually the ecu bricked me out and I had to purchase a new one. The reason behind this is because my 20g only had a 9psi wg whereas my dom 2 at the time had a 16psi gate, 80% wg duty cycle on a 16psi spring = shitload of boost. I temporarily solved the problem with a mbc until the ecu eventually pooped itself. I purchased a new one then it all worked fine.

[GTTuner]

That is interesting because I had the opposite problem with the TDC tune. Mike could not get my target boost even close. I had to install a 15# actuator to hit 19 psi. WG tables were more than 80%.

 

j255, how many times would you estimate you flashed before the ecu locked you out?

[j255c]

A lot. Someone also ripped my test connectors on the passenger side, so i installed a switch which may make the connection kind of shotty. Again, pretty much everything imaginable in my car broke which is why I had to get rid of it.