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Official Rusted Fuel Filler Neck thread


a89aries

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I haven't heard of anyone changing the check valve either, but maybe it's included on some pipes. I was checking prices on fillernecksupply.com and my pipe includes the warning:

 

ATTN! 2.2L MOTOR ONLY FOR LEGACY MODELS MADE AFTER 11-97. DOES NOT INCLUDE EMISSIONS VALVE!

 

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to change everything when I'm under there pulling stuff apart, but I would certainly prefer not to spend that kind of money. I was thinking of pulling the pipe out and trying to seal it with fiberglass or JB Weld to save money, but it is pretty rusty and I don't have another car to use when mine is apart. So I think I'll bite the bullet and get the new pipe and check valve to start.

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thats odd because I've heard the model year after mine (I haev a 97) has an extra valve which makes the pipe a lot more but I'm not sure where it's located I thought it would be in the filler neck but maybe not
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I did the pipe on my '98 today, and the total parts cost was $280CDN for the pipe, valve, rubber gasket, retaining ring and three screws.

 

The hardest part was getting the pipe out of the rubber hose at the tank. It was also a little stressful working around the gas tank, and when I did get the pipe out of the hose some gas poured out of the pipe. Fortunately, I had some water and sand handy, so I was able to cover it up quickly. Everything else went smoothly, and the new pipe fit like a glove. The old pipe basically fell apart at the top, so it was really rotted.

 

I went for a little drive afterwards and the check engine light is still on. Does anyone know how long it normally takes to go out, assuming I did fix the problem?

 

Cheers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went for a little drive afterwards and the check engine light is still on. Does anyone know how long it normally takes to go out, assuming I did fix the problem?

 

Cheers.

 

If you didn't clear the CEL by use of a reader, or by disconnecting the battery ground for a few minutes, the light won't go out by itself even if the problem is corrected. If you don't have an OBD II reader, just disconnect the battery, have a beer, reconnect it, and the light should stay out (assuming there are no other problems!).

 

Good luck!

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Thanks for your reply. The light stayed on a few days, but I hadn't filled the tank more than a 1/4. After I filled the tank, the light went out the same day and has been out for about a week now. I'm not sure why, but I was happy to see it go out. Hopefully it will stay that way.

 

Cheers.

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  • 2 months later...
Hi! New Guy here. Suffered this same problem just now on my 98 Outback Wagon. Did a Google search and found you guys. Sooo just for an update, I got a filler pipe from SubaruOnlineParts.com for $109. ($97+shipping). Gonna operate tomorrow. Got great info. here! Thanx!
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OK, Just finished installing the new filler pipe.

Not to repeat previous posts but,

Just some notes from my experience.

 

Disconnected the NEG Terminal from Battery

 

Wife had just filled the tank, so I put the passenger side, front and rear, up on stands to lean the gas in the tank to the drivers side. Didn't know how much if any gas would come out. Turns out the only gas that did come out was in the old pipe.

 

Took the wheel off. Then soaked the cover bolts and gas cap screws with PB Blaster.

Then let it sit for an hour to let the PB work.

 

Came out and sprayed every thing again.

Phillips head screws wouldn't budge.

I held the screwdriver in each screw and whacked it with a hammer whilst twisting on the driver and they all loosened. Then worked each screw back and forth with some more PB and they came out like new. Same with the bolts for the cover. I got them a bit loose and worked them back and forth with the ratchet and they came right out.

 

The rest of the job went like Slickfast posted earlier in the thread.

Except...Don't forget to take the old check valve out of the end of the old pipe!!

There are two plastic tabs that hold the valve in the end of the pipe. I used two small screwdrivers to hold the tabs in the unlocked position while I worked the valve out of the pipe. You then just snap the valve into the new pipe and it's ready to go in.

 

Pretty easy job as long as you take your time and let the PB Blaster work.

 

This link should get you to a PDF of the service procedure for this job.

Some of the pics didn't look my cars system but you can get an idea of how it's done.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0CEAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.subaruforester.org%2Fvbulletin%2Fattachments%2Ff88%2F14610d1225496904-fuel-system-part-help-fuelfillerpipeserviceprocedure.pdf&rct=j&q=Subaru%20filler%20pipe%20pdf&ei=Xh9tTsuFGMr40gGXhfDsBA&usg=AFQjCNFWyeFwmR4o4oDvK4G29uAo3VIjUQ&cad=rja

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  • 8 months later...
or just a dumbass question. I've got this problem on my newly acquired 97 Legacy OB wagon. how long will it take for me to cause a spark and blow myself and my house up by using the sawzall to cut the bad part of the pipe out? I paid $500 for the car and I'm not sure I want to start spending hundreds on it. I guess it's a small investment in the long run and I might have answered my own question. I've read about folks cutting the bad part out and using radiator hose or something similar with a couple hose clamps.
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  • 9 months later...
  • 3 months later...
remove it clean it and patch it .just finished.will see how long it will hold $10 for cement Two hours with two beers and one smoke break Four hours to let it cure.Beat the $160+at the dealer:lol::lol::lol:

 

good call haha I don't see why that wouldn't work

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  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...
Holy Crap! It's been almost 3 years since I did this! Looks like the price is getting better. I've bought a lot of parts from Rock Auto. I was going to try to repair mine but would have had to pull it to do it. I just figured to put a new one in and be done with it. I do blast it with my pressure sprayer every now and then to blow all the crap that gathers around it in order to prevent a repeat performance.
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  • 8 months later...
went to change one on a 98 wagon and discovered that i need the other pipes leading to the tank. anyone have part numbers or a blow up pic showing them? the 4 blow ups i've looked at didn't show the other pipes
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  • 3 weeks later...
I have a fuel leak near passenger rear tire so I assuming it's the filler tube. Getting pretty large puddles, it can't be safe to be leaking this much fuel! I'm gonna try to do a cheap fix, well since I'm cheap and broke. I'm interested in cutting the tube and using a rubber hose and hose clamps like someone posted on here before. Wondering what part # for rubber hose was used? For those who have used this repair method, how's it holding up?
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yes she did notice poor fuel mileage and the odor of gas.the leak was near the pass rear tire. also i didn't need any extra pieces of hose, someone had been there before me and cut out the rotten sections and spliced in rubber fuel hose. the new filler neck fixed it all for $125. now i'm happy:)

 

as for the hose size, the parts place had the filler neck listed with the size for the rubber fuel hose

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  • 5 months later...

So glad to have found this info. All of a sudden our 97 Outback Wagon fill pipe acted like it was plugged and gas was going all over. Found the rusted out vent pipe and my heart sank. Then I found this site. Slickfast nailed it and I love the simple steps. I used PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. With gentle prying at the big hose with a very large screw driver things came apart quite easily. The vent pipe was so badly rusted I broke it off and pulled it out making the rest easier.

 

Things I learned: I had to pull the fill pipe off the hose first before being able to drop the filler end out of the body area.

 

It was good to pressure wash and then brush out the inside of the fender before tackling the project. NO dirt in my eyes for the first time ever.

 

I was able to twist and kind of lever the pipe out of the hose by levering against the frame and other adjacent parts. No hard heavy yanking needed for me.

 

I sprayed undercoating on the replacement pipe but too heavily and it took over a day to harden in our cool Alaskan climate. Finally put it in the boiler room to get it harder.

 

Installation was pretty easy on the big pipe and a little harder to get the little hose on. Plenty of Deep Creep helped. I had to fiddle a bit as I replaced the plastic shield where the vent pipe penetrates the frame.

 

Oh and since my car had nothing to attach to it, I removed the little piece in the vent pipe that had a second nipple (to nowhere?) in it and used the original straight hose.

 

Once all was installed I sprayed again with another layer of under coating. Since we have a lot of rocky rough gravel roads I chose to reinstall part of the plastic shield. But I cut off the top part and cut down the rear "side" of it. My hope is it will be less able to hold salt, dirt, water, calcium chloride dust control stuff used here - yet offer some protection from flying rocks, bushes etc. Yes a friend called earlier this year to warn me my 2 sons were out driving on the still frozen tundra earlier this spring. I had to pull bushes, brush and grass out of various places when they returned and claimed innocence. I'll try to post a couple photos of the altered plastic shield - when I learn how. AND I'll keep an eye on this area.

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  • 3 months later...

So, thank you all for your info, slick fast again for the mental armor. I got everything back together, but now I am not able to add fuel like before. I have checked all hoses, no kinks, purge solenoid and vapor canister are fine. If I disconnect the fuel vent hose, I can spoon feed gas into it easier, but still no automatic shut off happiness.

 

Any thoughts?

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