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performance parts for 98' legacy 2.2L????


tedsan126

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61712

 

I'd start with the MSD swap, a lightweight crank pulley, a full header back exhaust, either a short ram, cold air, or drop in K&N filter. Then if money allows I'd get cams.

 

With the pulley's, you can get standard lightweight options which will improve throttle response, or you can get lightweight under pulleys, which are lighter than the stock pulley and smaller in diameter. The smaller diameter will slow down the alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor, but will free up a couple horsepower. www.Boxer4Racing.com/motor.htm#Motor%20Ignition

 

You can make a custom short ram for $30 at AutoZone. Don't expect much performance gain, but it does sound nice when you get on the gas. It sounds virtually stock when you're just driving around town. A drop in K&N would work too, but it fits inside your stock intake box and doesn't add any sound. You could disconnect the tube coming off the intake box and it would be a little better sounding. I did this for a while before I got my MAF adapter and my cone filter. The short ram/cold air option will raise peak HP and torque about 500 RPM's on the RPM band. www.AutoZone.com <-- Search for air filters. If you want, you can use the above Boxer4Racing link and get their Vibrant MAF adapter. The ones at AutoZone are cheap plastic ones that you have to drill holes into to make them fit, while the one on Boxer4Racing is aluminum and will bolt right up. You might need some additional hardware, 5/16" bolts and locknuts from AutoZone or any hardware store work nicely.

 

For the exhaust I'd say go to a local custom exhaust shop and have an exhaust bent and welded up with a high flow cat. Headers would be nice too. It would probably cost you under $500 for the whole shebang.

 

The ignition is easy. MSD part number 8239. You just need to go to a junkyard and find a 1993-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Dodge Neon, or Eagle Talon and cut the ignition coil input wires off. There are 3 wires feeding into the stock coil. Remove this and buy it.... $5 max. Get a piece of aluminum or steel and make yourself a mounting bracket so you can mount the new coil onto the existing coil mounts on the intake manifold. Solder or wire-nut (Solder is preffered) the junkyard plug onto the existing wiring harness on the Subaru, with all wires going to the same spot on the existing connector (Left = Left; Right = Right; Center = Center). If the car doesn't run, simply swap the left and the right wires with each other and try again. www.RacerWheel.com/msd-8239.html

 

If money allows, you can get custom cams, but something tells me you're looking for bolt-on performance that doesn't cost over $1,000. www.Xcceleration.com

 

To top this off, I'd get a nice set of platinum or iridium spark plugs (I prefer Bosch, but some people here don't like them. I've run Bosch Platinum +2's with MSD ignitions before no problems. The current 2.2L Legacy runs great with them). Replace the spark plug wires while you're at it. Beware, the parts AutoZone has listed to fit the 2.2 might not be the same. This happened to me, I think they tried to sell me wires for the 2.5. Just double check before you leave to make sure.

 

Depending on mileage, there are many maintenence items you could buy that could potentially make a huge difference. Fuel injectors, fuel filter, O2 sensors, ect... If you replace parts that are old and worn or clogged with fresh new parts, you could notice an improvement as well. I think you'll be pleased with the mild gains of the crank pulley, intake, exhaust, and complete ignition package. With all that, you're honestly only looking at about 15 HP, but that does make a difference. Plus, the car will have greatly improved throttle response (Not that the EJ22 doesn't have remarkably crisp response in stock trim), and a nice tone. You're going to be surprised how much cackle the 2.2L motor has when you let off the gas... Especially with an exhaust and an ignition. I ran mine straightpiped for a while and it popped about as much as my 1986 F-150 300 inline 6 with a carb. It sounded real nice, I got looks from people all the time expecting to see someone driving a pickup truck whenever I let off the gas.... "Crack, crack, pop pop pop pop blub blub blub" Aww, I miss those days.

 

Good luck! :)

 

Edit: I almost forgot about suspension and brake parts!

 

You can get stainless steel brake lines, bend them yourself and install them, but it won't make a dramatic difference. The theory is that regular steel lines will expand under braking force, especially when they get old. This does hold true, but I've learned from experience that if this sort of thing isn't broke, don't fix it. Unless of course the lines in the car now are rotting away from underneath you, then it's a precautionary measure.

 

You can also order drilled and slotted rotors from NAPA, but they come at a hefty price. They're still MUCH better than the ones you can find on Ebay for a dime a dozen (Since those ones are pretty much OEM rotors put ona CNC machine or bridgeport and drilled and slotted). Some nice high quality pads will make your braking much smoother, quieter, and crisp. The downside, 4 rotors and two sets of pads will probably cost you $500.

 

There should be a list of compatible aftermarket bushings listed on that first link I gave you. Some bushings from later model Leggy's work on the 98. This will tighten up the feel of the car and slightly decrease roll in some cases. Sway bars will significantly reduce body roll. If you're going to replace any bushings, I'd replace the steering rack ones, since the steering rack can move around in the stock bushings and cause sloppy response in the steering wheel. Tighter, stiffer rack bushings also reduce the "dead-spot" in the steering wheel, the amount you can turn the wheel before the car actually starts to turn. Don't expect the car to handle like an STi, but it will help some.

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i already did the air intake. i got a weapon r air intake system. then i did the full catback exhaust system, new cat and all larger diameter stainless tubing. do you think a pair of headers will make a noticable improvement.ust looked at the website you gave me for pulleys and i was wondering what your opinion was on this kind. UNORTHODOX Ultra Street Pulley Set.its a couple pages down on the website

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All of the above upgrades will work with any EJ22 2.2L Subaru. The MSD ignition, underpulley, and intake are all universal to the 2.2L engine. The intake exhaust and underpulley will also work with the EJ25 2.5L engine. Chassis/brake components are year/model specific, but there are solutions out there for other years/models.

 

A pair of headers could make a slight improvement, but the biggest bottleneck is the cats. High flow cats will make the biggest improvements, then I'd worry about the headers. The stock headers are alright, but if you're using exhaust piping that is larger in diameter than the headers, they could be bottlenecking performance. I've been thinking about getting headers with my stock exhaust piping, since my stock headers have a crack in them and I have a sneaking suspicion that my cat is clogged (Causing the header or gasket leak).

 

Overall, with cats and headers you should expect gains around 5 HP.

 

The Unorthodox pulley set includes an underdriven crank pulley with matching lightweight alternator and power steering pulley's. Expect some gains, most notable increases throttle response. I'd say about 5-10 HP, maybe a little more. The only issue you should worry about is reduced performance from the power steering pump and the alternator. The alternator and power steering pump will be spinning at lower RPM's with this kit. The alternator will put out less amperage to the battery, and the power steering pump will create less pressure for the power steering system. The reason is because to increase performance you will be changing the pulley ratio, making it easier for the engine to spin these components. The average passenger car loses about 30-40% of all it's power and torque trying to spin accessories that are belt driven off the crankshaft. Meaning that the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and AC compressor consume about 30-40% of all horsepower and torque. If you have a 200 HP car, and you remove all accessory belts, you will see a gain of roughly 60-70 HP. The Unorthodox pulley's free up performance by reducing the load these components put on the engine. If you have a good battery you should be alright. Be careful if you have aftermarket foglights or a large, powerful aftermarket stereo/amplifier/subwoofers. Tons of aftermarket equipment that draw electricity could draw more amperage than the underdriven alternator can put out, effectively draining the battery even while the engine is running or you're driving. I'm not sure if the underdriven pulley's will reduce the lifespan of the power steering pump, but those are cheap anyway. If the AC compressor ever stops working you could consider removing the belt for that, but only if it stops working. If you simply remove the belt in the winter time when you're not using the AC, when summer rolls around and you go to put the belt back on the AC clutch might be siezed. If you do decide to remove the AC belt in the event that the compressor stops working, remove the tensioner assembly (3 bolts) or else it could come in contact with your crank pulley, destroying the idler in a short time, as well as making noise and damaging the appearance of the Unorthodox crank pulley.

 

One last thing, you may need to get a different belt. I'd take the stock pulley to an auto parts store and get one with the right groove dimensions, then find one that's the correct length. To change the tension on the belt you must loosen the two alternator bolts and tighten up the tensioner bolt on the alternator mount. With this kit, you will need to loosen the alternator considerably before installing the new belt, then tighten it up again. You may be able to use the stock belt, just as long as the alternator is able to move enough to maintain tension.

 

Edit: I re read my first post in the thread and noticed a couple type-o's. My bad..... :)

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yea that was my concern with underdriving the alternator pulley because i have subs and an amp, granted its not that powerful of an amp(forget the watts at this time my bad) and iv never reduced the speed of the power steering pump, will it be really difficult to steer now? and that ignition coil on the website said it was manufactured for a 2.0L engine im not sure if that will be a problem?
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The size of the engine doesn't have any impact on the voltage ouput of the coil. The higher output is what you're looking for. The MSD ignition was made for the Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, and Dodge Neon, but if you get the connector from one of these cars and wire it up it will improve performance of the ignition system in the Legacy as well.

 

Ignition coils are fairly universal, it's the newer model years that are model specific, since some have different input votage wires. The input voltage is always 12 volts, but different models have different plugs. I have an 86 F150 with the 4.9L inline 6 outfitted with an MSD coil for Ford V8 engines. That specific coil will work with any Ford engine from the 302 cu/in all the way to the 460 cu/in and beyond. A 2.0L engine is 122 cu/in. A 2.2 is 134 cu/in. The MSD Blaster 2 and 3 line of coils are universal made for any engine. I had a Blaster 3 I converted into a Blaster 2 by removing the ballast resistor that I used in a 1991 Nissan Sentra 1.6L.

 

The MSD 8237 is a high output coil that will work great with the Legacy. The firing order is the same as the stock coil, and it uses the same 3 wire setup. If MSD wanted to, they could simply change the plugs on the 8237 to Subaru plugs and sell it as a Subaru coil, but the demand probably isn't high enough, espeically since this conversion is so easy anyway.

 

As far as the pulley, you could get it and probably be fine. It shouldn't be that much more difficult to steer the car, mainly at idle in parking lot situations, but if you give the car a little throttle it will get easier. My main concern is the lifespan of the pump, which may or may not be impacted at all. The alternator shouldn't care, as it's bearings are sealed with oil inside, whereas some components inside the power steering pump use the fluid as a lubricant.

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The 1993 and 1994 Legacy was made on a different platform than the 1995-1999 Legacy. The 1990-1994 Legacy was called the BC (Sedan), BL (Wagon), and BF (Extended Roof Wagon). The 1995-1999 Legacy was built on the BD (Sedan), BG (Wagon), and BK (Extended Roof Wagon). In short, the 1990-1994 Legacy were a totally different body style than the 1995-1999 model, the only similarities being the 2.2L engine and transmission.

 

The overall Imprezza bodystyle remained unchanged from 1993-2001. The 1993-2001 Imprezza models were named the GC, GF, and GM. I'd say the 1993-2001 Imprezza bushings would only fit in a 1995-1999 model Legacy, since the second generation Legacy shared more parts with the first generation Imprezza than it did with the first generation Legacy.

 

So, some 1993-2001 Imprezza parts are compatible with 1995-1999 Legacy parts. Hope that wasn't too confusing. ;)

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http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=2.5l+subaru+header&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=2.2l+subaru+header&_osacat=0

 

Sure you can!

 

The 2.5L for that year uses the same exhaust manifolds and gaskets. They won't do a whole lot without a high flow cat though and the rest of the exhaust. They do make it sound a bit better.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Impreza-WRX-2-5L-RS-97-05-99-98-Stainless-Steel-Header_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2a00e9a2d4QQitemZ180403938004QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

I checked out pretty much all of them, in search of differences in parts and sellers, including return policies. What I find strange is every single seller has the EXACT SAME return policy, word for word. The parts, gaskets, and bolts all appear to be exactly the same as well. They are all made from stainless steel and include mounting hardware and gaskets.

 

The link above is the cheapest, $155 shipped to your door. It's worth a shot. :)

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