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Steering Wheel Audio Controls


phildog33

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(Ive bought all the parts now -- Just need some help installing it)

I have an Outback XT 2005 -- with jsut the stock Momo leather wheel. I like the wheel but it has no controls on it.

 

I just installed the Pioneer Z110BT, and would like to add controls from the wheel.

 

Is there anyway to do it with remote control added to the wheel? Or, can I replace the whole wheel itself with one that has controls built in?

 

Thanks again

Phillip

Edited by phildog33
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Thank you thank you.. I appreciate the link.

 

That part here, which can convert an AT wagon wheel into one with SWC, is hard to find. It replaces the two sides of the wheel that have the UP/Down shift buttons with SWC for audio.

 

http://carview-img02.bmcdn.jp/carlife/images/UserCarPat/507245/p1.jpg

 

The P/N is 83153AG000, but I cant find it for sale anywhere.

 

I like my steering wheel, the leather wrapped Momo one. And I dont need an entire new wheel, but if I cant find that part, it may be my only option.

 

Any idea where to find P/N 83153AG000 ?

 

P

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Any idea where to find P/N 83153AG000 ?

That part shows up on both 1stSubaruParts.com and SubaruGenuineParts.com (probably others).

 

But from this drawing on opposedforces.com it looks like that P/N is the shift up/down buttons (2 on each side), not the audio buttons (3 on each side).

 

Could it be that easy to swap in the audio buttons on your wheel? I know that mod is possible on more recent years. You should double-check the P/N for the audio buttons, and whether that part will fit your wheel.

 

Since you have an Outback, it's a bit more likely that the SWC wires go all the way through the clockspring connector (all of the 2005 Outback 3.0R models had the audio SWCs). It really could be a plug-and-play mod on your car. But you should do a little more checking to be sure.

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Phillip-

 

You can change out the steering wheel controls but unless you are an electrical engineering wiz, I seriously doubt you will be able to control anything aftermarket through the OEM controls and wiring harness. It is NOT plug and play for those of us that have changed out the transmission controls to radio controls and kept the OEM radio. We had to modify the wiring harness of the car.

It is still ugly.
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I've just spent some time reading through all of trabbic's steering wheel transplant thread, as well as looking over the 2005 wiring diagrams.

 

I'm pretty sure I have pins/wires that will snap into the "B68" harness plug (behind the steering column). So you won't have to 'shove wires in and hope they stay connected.' In theory I could make a forward/reverse adapter harness so you won't need to cut any factory wires. Don't know if it would be worth the effort/cost.

 

I think I also see a way to connect half of the audio controls (without illumination) along with one of the shift pods.

 

More later...

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I got mine at subaruparts.com (aka Tacoma Subaru Nissan on the invoice) for $88.93 plus shipping (this was in July of 2007).

 

Part number is 83153AG000 (switch satellite), list price on the invoice was listed as $116.93.

It is still ugly.
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awesome.. so i bought thoe SWCs and they just pop right into the 2005 limited wheel.. with the Shift pods removed?

 

what about wires running to my Pioneer/PAC swc control unit... can I use the wires from the shift up/down levers or run new wires?

 

P

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That's where it's gonna get tricky. I suggest you spend some quality time with the thread mentioned in goneskiian's post in this thread. It will show you the identity of the wires that run from the steering wheel to the instrument panel wiring harness. In the wiring modification for these switches to work with the OEM radio, there are only 4 wires involved...and two of them make the connections for the illumination of the switches. If I remember correctly, I think I read somewhere in that thread that all of the functions of those six switches are carried out by the other two wires. It is NOT a simple set of wires for each switch. I can't explain it, but it made some sense to me when I read it a couple years ago in that thread. Good luck.
It is still ugly.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok Ive bought all the parts and posting pictures right now. (attached)

 

I have my Pioneer Avic-Z110BT installed and working great

 

I have the PAC SWI which plugs into my Pioneer HU with a mini jack.

The PAC says to use its white wire to attach to the button system. If the buttons 'dont have a resistor network attached to them, use the supplied resistors' it says

 

and.. I have the Steering Wheel pods to replace in my Moma wheel ... putting in place of those Shift Buttons right now. The harness for the PODs is a green block with 5 wires in it. Blue Red White and Orange. and a Ground. I think 2 of the wires are for illuminanting the POD leds.

 

But which wire do I connect the PAC-SWI to? Am i supposed to run a wire with resistor for EACH button over to the PAC or can i use the green block harness some how?

 

my last question about those shift buttons.. Once I remove them... Im hoping the car will not randomly shift gears without those pods there

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http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646164972_tc8T2-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165081_gMCMZ-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165175_Ke6jM-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165273_d5pKd-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165330_McEb8-XL.jpg

 

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165367_SDYtB-XL.jpg

 

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646165441_GNQs5-XL.jpg

 

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646166437_WWeh9-M.jpg

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http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646189115_zecdY-M.jpg

 

 

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646188305_cx6c3-M.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646188477_Jjruf-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646187194_Ct3J9-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646187169_dbmGb-XL.jpg

 

http://www.phillipangert.com/photos/646188336_P72gD-XL.jpg

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I have [a 2005 Outback XT, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT, and PAC SWI-PS]

 

The PAC says to use its white wire to attach to the button system. If the buttons 'dont have a resistor network attached to them, use the supplied resistors' it says

...

which wire do I connect the PAC-SWI to? Am i supposed to run a wire with resistor for EACH button over to the PAC or can i use the green block harness some how?

 

The OEM SWC pods already have a resistor network. The schematic looks similar to this (from the 2005 Legacy wiring diagrams). You won't need to add any resistors yourself.

 

You'll want to connect the SWI's White wire to one of the two SWC wires, and connect the other SWC wire to ground.

 

Once I remove [the shift buttons] ... I'm hoping the car will not randomly shift gears without those pods there
The shift buttons simply connect the 'up' and 'down' input wires to ground. With the shift pods removed, it will be exactly the same as when you're not pushing either button.

 

According to trabbic's thread, you should be able to plug in the green plug from the new audio pods inside the wheel in place of the one from the shift pods that you remove.

 

You'll then need to modify some of the pins/wires on the 8-pin B68 harness (outside the wheel). You'll be re-assigning some of the pins to work with the SWCs and illumination instead of shift up/down.

 

See my pin-out post here.

 

Specifically, you need to cut or de-pin pins 2 and 7 (leave pin 8 tied to ground), and then connect pins 2, 6, and 7 to the signals needed for the SWCs.

 

You definitely need to insulate the old pins or wires -- otherwise if they bump into each other or ground, you really could find your car trying to shift by itself.

 

As I mentioned a few posts back, I have some pins/wires that I'm pretty sure will snap into the B68 connector. Send me an e-mail for details.

 

Once you start opening up your steering wheel, take lots of pictures. Some of trabbic's pictures aren't very clear, so I'm sure others would appreciate seeing additional pics that are close-up and in focus.

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Cool so we know that my pods have the resistor network built in,, we Just need to know what those 4 wires do.. And we are in business

 

in my picture you can see the 4 colors coming out of the pods.

Blue red orange and white

 

which 2 are for illum+ and illum- ?

and which 2 to use for the switch control + and then ground the other?

 

My only notes are that pod left has blue coming out that goes strraight to the harness and pod right has red coming out and straight to the harness. The two pods have white coming out that get tied together at the harness

and

podL gray gets tied to podR orange.. And they become orange at the harness

 

other than that they are bridged across with short yellow and brown wires.. You can see them all in the pictures

 

 

So... If we can find out what these wires do at the POD harness: blue, red, white and orange... Then I'm good and I can install tonight, no problem

 

thanks for everyones help

p

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If I am reading the wiring diagram correctly, the wires from the satellite switches (pods) are:

 

V (purple) pin 2 illumination

 

BW (black with white stripe) pin 8 illumination

 

OrW (orange with white stripe) pin 6 radio control

 

VW (purple with white stripe) pin 7 radio control

 

If you need wiring schematics, PM me with your e-mail address and I can send them to you.

It is still ugly.
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That's because you're looking at a different connector!

 

The 5-pin green plug connects on the steering wheel side of the clockspring. Just plug it in and ignore the colors on that side (those colors aren't shown on the wiring diagram).

 

You want to look at the wires on 8-pin harness B68 -- on the car side of the clock spring.

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totally confused.. was posting online that I got everything working.. was super excited to send you guys pictures and notes on the install..

 

all 6 buttons of my pods, all programed to do different things with my Pioneer Z110BT and worked great. Vol up, down.. Track forward, back... answer bluetooth call ON and OFF

 

it worked solid or about 2 hours, no problems at all

 

then i was starting my car... and noticed that yes the buttons are still illuminated and could be dimmed down (Illum- wire) -- but -- none of the buttons sent a signal anymore

 

i checked the PAC device with the little status LED and its not recieving any input.. i tried reprogramming the PAC by holding down the program button and the LED lights up and then turns off --- itis supposed to be solid Red the whole time during programs

 

oh man.. whats going on.. did I fry the buttons or the PAC SWI=PS or something?

 

SHOOOOOOOOTTT whats going on

what can i check? I had it ALL working for 2-3 hours no problem

p

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Did you clip any wires on the car side of the B68 connector? I would assume you would have to, to separate the signals from the satellite switches from using the wire path that the auto trans shift buttons would normally use. I had to do this when I swapped out my shift buttons for radio controls. Those wires go to the shift lever and the body integrated unit. The circuitry for the shift function would not be energized when the ignition is in the accessory position, but would be once the car is started.
It is still ugly.
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yes i definitely clipped and insulated all the original Shift button wires, and they were out of the way.

 

The whole project was done, all buttons programmed and Illumin/Dim working. Everything was great..

 

and then I restarted the car and noticed no more signal coming from the buttons to the PAC unit... no LED flickering when a button is pressed and the PAC unit itself wont go into program mode anymore.

 

IS it possible I fried the SWC Buttons in the wheel? Is that even possible

or

Fried the PAC unit?

 

is there anything to check with a DM Meter

 

All my connections were loose and uninsulated while I was programming, its possible one of the SWC wires touched something metal in the car.. But I dont understand.

 

Please help me trouble shoot if you can

P

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My understanding is that the satellite controls vary the resistance being sent to the radio. I have a hard time understanding how they could be damaged if the voltage wasn't stepped up.

 

I am by no means an expert in aftermarket audio...the last aftermarket system I installed was a cassette deck. :rolleyes:

 

What did you use to tap into the factory wiring harness? I used these (see pic). The first time around I used blue ones and I should have used red. Red is for a smaller gauge wire size. The blue ones are for a larger size wire. I had an intermittent connection in my illumination circuit. A couple weeks ago I took the lower dash apart and replaced the blue taps with red and my lights on the satellite controls now work all the time.

 

I am sorry, but I don't even know what a PAC is, much less how it works or how to test some of these components.

373968043_ScotchlokT-Tap.jpg.384907b0842fb56bba9a6c3197d7c4ef.jpg

It is still ugly.
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I checked everything today and the pods are 100% perfect. I'm getting 6 different resistance drops from them and those are readings from inside the PAC circuit board

 

the Pac though refuses to be programed anymore

on car types 1,2,4 etc etc

it holds it's red led ready for programming ... But it recieves no input, because my car needs type 3

 

once I input type 3.. It flashes 3 times confirms it's ready

then I hold down the program button and the led lights, but when I release... Instead of staying lit and going through all 12 steps.. The led just turns off and it's dead until I turn off/on the car

 

seems the PAC got fried but I have no idea why

just last night I had all 6 buttons working and programmed working perfectly with my pioneer HU

 

is there anything I can check on the PAC, or should i just buy a new one?

 

its wierd that all other modes work... but not mode 3 anymore

p

Edited by phildog33
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