Separating LCA ball joint/tie rod from knuckle - medieval style

[JmP6889928]

If you need to change an axle, the BEST way is to separate the ball joint from the LCA rather than from the strut. If you remove from the strut, then you need to have the car realigned, no matter how careful you are at marking the cam bolts. An alignment is performed with the weight of the car on the front wheels and the wheels are on floater plates, which allow movement when the bolts are loosened, adjusted, and tightened.

 

To change an axle, jack the car up and put on jackstands securely with enough height to be able to get under the LCA comfortably. The first once jacked up is to use an impact wrench to loosen but don't remove the axle nut. (If you are doing both sides, switch the nuts to find a new place to peen back into the slot. If only one side, then it's best to replace the nut if one doesn't come with the new axle).

 

To split the ball joint from the LCA, remove the bottom cotter pin, loosen the castle nut down to where the castle is even with the bottom of the stud. Spray a bunch of penetrating oil around the stud where it enters the LCA. Take about a 4' long piece of pipe (I use chainlink fence pipe-1 3/8") and wedge it under the front support (framerail) and put pressure downward (lay your chest on it) on the LCA (it's usually easiest to put the pipe on the front side of the rotor) and whack the side of the LCA on each side of the stud sharply with a BFH. It usually takes about 2 or 3 hits on each side and it will pop loose. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE BJ STUD NO MATTER WHAT OR YOU WILL BE REPLACING THE BJ. Be patient if it doesn't come loose on the first couple of hits. It may take 4-5 a side if the car is driven in crappy conditions (like MICHIGAN where I live...LOL) or has a lot of miles on it.Remove the castle nut and force the LCA down with the pipe until you can completely separate the BJ stud from the LCA.

 

Remove the axle nut and push the axle spline through the WB and simply pull the strut/knuckle assembly to the side and remove your axle. CHECK the BJ for excessive looseness at the stud by moving it around and making sure it's not flopping around in the socket. AGAIN, when you put your new axle in, anti seize on the splines. You can use it on both ends, but very lightly on the trans side.

 

Lightly coat the axle seal surface with some ATF and insert your axle into the transmission making sure it seats all the way in. Once you have it in the trans and are sure it's seated all the way, pull the knuckle over and line up the spline end of the axle with the WB and slide the axle into the WB. Finger install the axle nut to make sure it can't slip back out (although it would be pretty hard to lose it), pry your LCA down and reinstall your BJ stud into the LCA (covered in anti seize) and then tighten the castle nut to spec and replace the cotter pin. Tighten the axle nut LIGHTLY with an impact wrench and install your wheel without the center cap. Use a torque wrench and torque to Subaru specs (about 160 ft.lbs.) and reinstall your center cap.

 

You've just changed your axle and you've not changed your alignment in any way, and generally, if you are just decent with tools, you can change an axle in less than an hour. If you are really good with tools, then you should be able to get it done in about 1/2 hour.

 

Feel free to comment or PM me if you have questions. I've been doing axles like this ever since FWD cars have come out and it's by far the easiest, fastest, cheapest, and best way to R&R an axle.

[outahere]

Thanks to the OP for this tip! I used a tapered Klein bull pin, about 1.25" at the fat end, and it popped out the rusted ball joint easily, in less than 5 minutes of moderate hammering.