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Help...Did I blow my turbo?


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Hi guys, a quick introduction first I suppose...Purchased my 05 GT LTD M/T back in January with 75000km on it (46600 miles). Absolutely love the vehicle, prior vehicle was a Pontiac Montana and prior to that a Mazda3. By far the best purchase I've ever made!

 

Last week I purchased an AccessPort and Downpipe from Fredbeans (great dealer from that experience!) Anyways haven't got the DP installed yet, but flashed the AP on Thursday (Stage 1 91). Definitely could see an increase in performance, great easy mod. Anyways went away for the weekend on Friday, got back this afternoon. Took the car out a few hours ago to meet up with a buddy, while driving on the highway, stepped on the gas a little bit, not really paying attention, thought I saw out of the corner of my eye the the Tachometer shot up to 7000, but figured I may be seeing things. About 90 minutes later I'm heading home on the highway again. Proceed go WOT from 3k RPM to pick up a little speed and it definitely happens again...Tachometer shoots up to redline while not pulling at all...take my foot off the gas and just cruise for a minute at about 110km/h (65mph). Proceed to WOT again to see what happens, and the same thing, shoots up to redline. At this point I'm sure something is wrong and get over to the slow lane and drive at 100km/h the rest of the way, about 3 more miles on the highway. As I'm on the off ramp I can definitely smell something burning from the engine, engine temp doesn't budge from the usual spot though.

 

Anyways, my question is did I blow the turbo? Or is there something else that is possibly wrong? Car now has a little over 83000km on it (51500miles). If it's the turbo I'm sure it's covered under warranty. I assume I have to uninstall the AP and cross my fingers the dealer won't notice that? But I only drove the vehicle maybe 50km since I flashed it to stage 1 so I'm not sure if the tune is the issue. Had an oil change done at a Subaru dealership just over a month ago, and had it in for some Warranty work last week (Front Control Arm Busings?)

 

If anyone could point me in the right direction as to what could possibly be the problem and what solutions I should be looking at it would be greatly appreciated. Should I avoid driving the vehicle until I get it to the dealer? Can I even drive it to the dealer? I've definitely learned a lot just from lurking on these forums over the past 5+ months but couldn't find an answer in searching as far as to what a blown turbo is like...Your help is greatly appreciated, any additional information that's needed I will supply. This is my first Turbo car so I apologize for the newbiness when it comes to this...Thanks in advance!

 

Dan

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Maybe I'm jumping the gun with the turbo...could it actually be the clutch? My Mazda3 was a 5 speed as well but I never really experienced any issues with the clutch, only had the car for 1 year...I just found it odd that it would happen after it was fully engaged in gear and after driving for sometime in that gear, only happened in 5th gear as I didn't want to cause any more damage by testing it in another gear, was always above 3000rpm when boost would've definitely been in effect. Now that I went back out and smelled it as it still smells as it's burning it's got the burnt clutch smell to it...Is it possible it's the clutch??
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okay go 30 mph, pop it into 5th. if your tach jumps up but ur speed isnt going higher, then your clutch is toast.

 

from the looks of it, your clutch is gone. it makes a terrible sort of shitty (no pun intended) smell.

car for sale. PM me!
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Going to go do the test lawl suggests above, but after looking into clutch problems a little more definitely seems like that's the issue, and definitely has that smell...Just had me freaking out since I installed a Stage 1 MAP the other day thought that may have screwed things up royally...Had a little clutch slippage in the past but was always when first engaging in a gear...ok going to test that then will need some help picking out a clutch if that is indeed the issue...What's the stage 2 clutch? I'd want something with a little more performance and longevity than the stock if there's such a thing...Mostly used as a Daily Driver but plan to go to the track the odd time...
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Alright did the test that lawl suggested...At 30mph tach didn't jump at WOT, it was only once the car hit about 3000rpm that the tach would skyrocket to redline and not pull...happened once in 4th as well...Gears 1 through 3 seemed fine, and definitely still had boost so obviously turbo is ok...But I guess the symptoms do point towards a clutch...Obviously I'm a newb at this, having never experienced problems with a manual car...Alright so if it is indeed the clutch, what do you guys suggest, performance/value...Obviously don't want the stock clutch again given the amount of problems it has and the fact that it rarely seems to last more than 60000 miles...Will likely be going stage 2 putting on a Perrin catted DP within the next month...Your help again is greatly appreciated, don't know what I'd do without this forum and this car...
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Clutch bro.

Well it is a used car; what can you you do about it. But my clutch only lasted 45,00 miles and if you look around, you will find exceptions too - but generally around 50-60 K miles most of us go thru one clutch. It was designed to be a weak point. Do things right, upgrade the jelly OEM tranny mount - it will be just another 80 bucks or so - since you are already paying for labor there.

 

And don't feel bad thinking that your newly found 30 hp from the Cobb AP caused the problem. The clutch was already shot, the previous owner likely felt it and decided it was time to get rid of the car. Without your AP, clutch may have lasted a month more, 2 months more...maybe longer, but this year you'd have roasted yours.

 

Mine came undone trying to park in a snow covered parking meter spot and I never launched the car, tracked it or abused it.

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Thanks so much for the responses guys...Going to contact Derek to see what he suggests. But with a little bit of research last night looks like the ACT Clutch with a WRX Flywheel is probably the route I'm going to go.
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Yeah was going to get the parts from Jeremy as I've gotten stuff from him in the past, but unfortunately still nothing in stock (should have it in stock in the next couple weeks, perhaps sooner)...Clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 3rd now...I've tried searching but how much longer do I have until it's completely undriveable. Limiting my driving right now to just city streets and trying to stay below 3K RPMs. Dealership here quoted me $1050 CAD for WRX Flywheel and Exedy Stage 1 Clutch which honestly isn't a bad price once I factor in duties and what not if I were to get it from anywhere in the states...From everything I've read looks like the ACT is the combo to get, I'm just worried I don't have enough time...Suggestions?
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Main concern is can I wait a couple weeks to get the clutch, currently Stg 1, have DP waiting to be installed, but not until I get a new clutch...Would uninstalling the Stg 1 MAP perhaps prolong the clutch a little while longer?
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Money's not the issue, it's a matter of finding the ACT in stock :) Found it in-stock at 1 vendor, ImportImageRacing, but at $100 more than Fredbeans, and they only have the LWFW no WRX Flywheel...So my debate is can I wait 2 weeks for Fredbeans to have it in-stock, or do I perhaps get it from the dealership except they can only get me an Exedy Stage 1 with WRX flywheel at a similar price, or do I get the ACT with LWFW...Car is still under warranty so not planning on doing any huge mods for at least another year.
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Clutch bro.

Well it is a used car; what can you you do about it. But my clutch only lasted 45,00 miles and if you look around, you will find exceptions too - but generally around 50-60 K miles most of us go thru one clutch.

 

Some of us go through a clutch in 17,000 miles. :spin:

phoenix96

2006 Legacy GT Ltd · 2011 Outback 3.6R Ltd · 1992 SVX

2006 Outback 3.0R VDC · 2009 Forester 2.5X

2002 Outback VDC · 1996 Outback 2.5L · 1986 GL-10

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