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DIY: B4 Knock sensor replacement


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Problem:

The Check Engine Light appeared, and the car lost power while driving. After a few minutes, the light went off and the car felt normal again. Diagnostic confirmed knock sensor error.

 

Solution:

Replace the knock sensor.

 

Tools required:

1/2" Wrench

1/2" Torque wrench

13 mm pipe and angled connector

10 mm spanner

 

Estimated time:

10 minutes

 

The knock sensor is located under the left rear intake manifold runner (for cylinder No. 4), on top of the engine block, to the left of the engine. The knock sensor monitors engine vibration caused by detonation. Basically, a knock sensor converts engine vibration to an electrial signal.

 

When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the cylinders, it signals the PCM so that the PCM can retard ignition timing accordingly.

 

The knock sensor contains a piezoelectric material, a certain type of piezoresistive crystal, that has the ability to produce a voltage when subjected to a mechanical stress. The PCM doesn't respond to the knock sensor's input when the engine is idling; it only respons when the engine reaches a spesific speed.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock1.jpg

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock3.jpg

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock2.jpg

 

Locate the knock sensor retaining bolt.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock4.jpg

 

Disconnect the knock sensor plug.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock5.jpg

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock6.jpg

 

Make a visible mark, so that you can install the new knock sensor in the same angle.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock7.jpg

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock8.jpg

 

Insert the pipe and remove the knock sensor retaining bolt, and the knock sensor.

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock10.jpg

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock9.jpg

 

http://www.subarudrivers.net/media/knock11.jpg

 

Install the new knock sensor, using the same position (the pigtail harness should be at approximately a 60-degree angle to the back of the engine, but using the mark you made is fine) as the old sensor.

 

Tighten the knock sensor retaining bolt to the correct torque, 209 in-lbs (23.6 Nm).

 

Connect the battery and your done.

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  • 5 months later...

Hi there,

 

This is a really great post - thanks! Im new to the forum and Ive just purchased a 1998 GT-B (3rd generation because its japanese) here in japan and I now have a CEL.

 

Its the knock sensor error. My question is: you say that a knock sensor only registers at a certain speed? My CEL comes on when the car is idling.

BUT - its really intermittent - sometimes it comes on when I start the car and sticks around for a few minutes before going away. Sometimes it comes on for a little while once Ive been driving for a while. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all!

 

The car does seem to vibrate a TINY bit more than one might expect when idling but otherwise its great.

 

Any ideas about the intermittent CEL - sensor failure?

 

Many thanks again.

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  • 3 months later...

Great post and really helped. Problem was I had to replace 3 times and maybe came close to 10 minutes once. Reason for replacements was that I did not us OEM Knock Sensor and kept getting error. Called a GREAT service dept mgr who said have to use OEM. End of Problem!!! Last time with OEM took longer than first fyi.....i think the lead wire was thicker or something and had more trouble getting into place.

 

Tdi

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

ok got the replacement sensor

tooh the stock TMIC off ;found the sensor

cannot get a standard rachet in to access the bolt its angled

and the rest of the intercooler blocks it

can't believe that has to be taken off too

since i am now in stupidville can someone recommend the tool to access the knock sensor bolt

will an offset closed end wrench work?

a pipe angle rachet?

thanks

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fwiw

got mine on last night check engine light off everything A OK

post mortum sears sells a split swivel socket which worked great

size is 12mm

also the socket magnet sold separately worked great for when you have to get the sensor and bolt threaded in that dreaded tight space

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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Did you check all the connections?

 

If you unplugged any connectors, make sure you re-connect them again.

 

When I replaced mine recently, I unplugged a total of three things:

 

Negative battery terminal

Plug to the Throttle-body (to make it easier to get to the sensor with the extension) I almost forgot to plug this one back in.

Plug to the sensor

 

Did you tighten the sensor properly? (enough, not too much)

 

Are you getting any codes?

 

Re-check all your connections

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  • 11 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Op, thanks for posting this up. Would be great if the pictures were loaded to the site for longevity's sake. PM if you have questions about how to do that.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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