tingtang Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 here are a couple logs i did... now remember my car is protuned with a v2 AP from a pretty reputable shop here in colorado.... i know it doesnt look good... im not saying its the shops fault... its probably mostly caused my the SPT intake i have... but im pretty sure i have quite a bit of knock... everywhere... all 5 logs range from 5000ft-10000ft... not sure if that makes a difference...romraiderlog_20090510_152020.csvromraiderlog_20090510_152702.csvromraiderlog_20090510_162148.csvromraiderlog_20090510_162710.csvromraiderlog_20090510_170125.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 this is the learning view... i dunno if i did this one right though.... when exactly are you suppose to open learning view?? right before the run?? or right when you turn on ur car?? it didnt seem like it did anything... this was when i first started the car.... and i think they are both the exact same... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 probably tomorrow ill go pump 93 octane gas... and then ill log again to see if it reduced my knock.... can any1 tell me when exactly im suppose to use learning view?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Okay...a few things. 1 - You should take your LV right before and right after your run with the car running, or with the ignition on. 2 - Before you do any more runs confirm that your IAM is at 1. Looks like you are at 0.875..this means the engine is not happy, probably because of alot of knock. What I would do is get your stock intake back on (if that what the protune was done with) and reset the ECU (this clears all the learned knock and resets your IAM) so after the reset do a quick WOT to get your IAM to 1. Once the IAM settles to one, do your LV and your logging run. 3 - I would log WOT 2000 rpm - Redline. If you see your Knock sum incrementing more than 1 or 2 stop your run, your LV looks pretty ugly right now. Looks like most of the timing pulled was at around 2600-4000 RPM, your tuner needs to lower timing in that range. 4 - Tell us what your mods are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Also, log these parmeters only: Engine Speed Engine load (2 byte) WGDC% Manifold relative pressure (corrected) Knock Sum Total Timing Throttle opening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 megan DP/UP and CBE.. no cats... SPT intake no heatshield... and pro tuned with AP by a shop here in colorado with everything on... i also have a hks ssqv bov... thats all the mods i can think of... i dont have a tuner... planned on going OS waiting on the rest of my parts to go in... can i reset my ECU using the AP?? its a v2 and i think i saw something on there saying ecu reset... thats not going to erase EVERYTHING is it?? ill do that later on today... ill also pump some 93 octane and see if that helps a little... there only 1 gas station that i know of that sells 93 octane in the denver/metro area of colorado... i opened the LV when i first started the car so it was still cold... that might be why... thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Also, log these parmeters only: Engine Speed Engine load (2 byte) WGDC% Manifold relative pressure (corrected) Knock Sum Total Timing Throttle opening i was told never to log anything corrected?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 megan DP/UP and CBE.. no cats... SPT intake no heatshield... and pro tuned with AP by a shop here in colorado with everything on... i also have a hks ssqv bov... thats all the mods i can think of... i dont have a tuner... planned on going OS waiting on the rest of my parts to go in... can i reset my ECU using the AP?? its a v2 and i think i saw something on there saying ecu reset... thats not going to erase EVERYTHING is it?? ill do that later on today... ill also pump some 93 octane and see if that helps a little... there only 1 gas station that i know of that sells 93 octane in the denver/metro area of colorado... i opened the LV when i first started the car so it was still cold... that might be why... thanks for the help Not sure about how you can reset the ECU using AP...somone else might chime in. If your IAM is back to 1 then you do not need to reset, I like to do it because it starts you off with a clean slate and no learned KC. IAM should ideally always be at one, even at startup. Not sure about the corrected (maybe it is becuase you are at altitude)? Log non corrected then..i don;t think there is a big difference anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legend Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Not sure about the corrected (maybe it is becuase you are at altitude)? Log non corrected then..i don;t think there is a big difference anyway. I use manifold relative pressure (corrected) logging at altitude with romraider. I'd log with that parameter if you can but if you are always under 18.43psi I don't think it makes a difference. My '05 LGT My '07 Supercharged Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 ^ yea... i dont think ive ever seen over 16psi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 the first one with 0's all across is when i reset my ecu, and did a WOT pull... the second one is when i was driving for a little while.... the last 2 are when i pumped 93 octane gas... seems like my knock got worse after i put in 93 octane gas?? i was running on 91 before, and i beleive the car was tuned on 91... but i was always under the impression that if you add higher octane gas without tuning all your doing is resisting knock... someone care to chime in?? should i reset my ecu again for the 93 octane gas?? or is the gas station that i went to not really using 93 octane?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 No need to reset your ECU...the knock you are getting isn't really dangerous, most of it is in the low load, low RPM range. The only one that is a little bit concerning (to me) is the 2600-3200 range in the higher load area. But it is not terrible. The reason you are seeing more knock is because the ECU is learning to pull timing in those areas..the longer you drive, the more it will learn. If you get too much correction (more than 3.9 degrees), your IAM may drop. Looks like you are about to go over 3.9 in the 1650-3200 range.. That range is not very concerning because tuners rarely mess with that range, it is identical to stock. The good news is, the knock does not look dangerous (but you need to do some WOT logs to make sure). The bad news is that the low level knock is going to drop your IAM, which in turn, will cause you to lose power. I would check to confirm that nothing is rattling in the engine bay and causing false knock. Then go out and do some WOT logs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 No need to reset your ECU...the knock you are getting isn't really dangerous, most of it is in the low load, low RPM range. The only one that is a little bit concerning (to me) is the 2600-3200 range in the higher load area. But it is not terrible. The reason you are seeing more knock is because the ECU is learning to pull timing in those areas..the longer you drive, the more it will learn. If you get too much correction (more than 3.9 degrees), your IAM may drop. Looks like you are about to go over 3.9 in the 1650-3200 range.. That range is not very concerning because tuners rarely mess with that range, it is identical to stock. The good news is, the knock does not look dangerous (but you need to do some WOT logs to make sure). The bad news is that the low level knock is going to drop your IAM, which in turn, will cause you to lose power. I would check to confirm that nothing is rattling in the engine bay and causing false knock. Then go out and do some WOT logs. ^ WHEW!!! thats a relief.... seeing all those numbers made me worried... ill definitely take a look and make sure everything is bolt down correctly... i did do a 3rd gear WOT... let me see if i can find it;.... this is from 3000-redline... i couldnt do it from 2000 because cars were getting pissed .. this is still 91 octane... before i pumped the 93... so what ur saying is that the knock isnt that bad so i can pull logs safely?? i only did 1 WOT pull because i was worried about the knock... the knock on 91 octane didnt look that bad but when i pumped 93 the numbers were everywhere... so i didnt do a WOT run with 93 octane... but now that i know its safe to do WOT ill get some logs later this afternoon and post them up... thanks again!! youve been a great help through my beginning stages romraiderlog_20090512_155109.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 oh yea and i didnt have time to change the parameters i was logging so i will do that today too... Engine Speed Engine load (2 byte) WGDC% Manifold relative pressure (corrected) Knock Sum Total Timing Throttle opening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Glad i can help...i am still learning too. Log looks good...no knock. I am not familiar with tuning at high altitude, but it looks like you are running very conservative boost..like stage 1 levels? When you got the protune did they give you a base and realtime map? If so make sure they are both loaded... Also, Add target boost to your logging parameters for your next logs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 the funny thing is... i bought the car already protuned from a friend... he told me the shop that did it said they were boosting 17psi... which is still fairly conservative... but when i read my logs its only at around 14-15... i think there is a base and realtime... im pretty sure they are both loaded as well... 14-15 psi here is around 16-17 at sea level i think... that might be why... ill do some 3rd gear pulls with the 93 octane gas today... thanks again... i need to learn how to read my logs :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 i totally forgot i was still logging my old parameters... but here is one 3rd gear pull.... and a 5th gear 3000-4000... and some learning views... this is all at around 9000ft above sea level...romraiderlog_20090513_150503.csvromraiderlog_20090513_153219.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Knock wise it looks good.. Boost looks too low and it builds pretty slowly. For instance...at sea level I hit 18.5psi (my peak) at about or below 3000 rpm. You are not peaking (at 14.5) until 3500. Are you sure there are no leaks and that all your vacuum lines are good? Again..I don;t know if the slow spool and low boost is a result of the altitude or the tune or mechanical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 ^ well im pretty sure as far as spool goes here and sea level should be the same... I THINK... i went through all the lines i can see and i didnt find any leaks... i really dont kno where else to look.... i did feel my car spooled slow for being stock though... it really didnt feel like i started building boost until 2800 or so... maybe its the tune... i sit at 19 inhg at idle which i think is correct for my elevation... if i had a leak somewhere my vac would be off too wouldnt it?? thanks again for your input... hopefully by the end of this month i have everything put in and a new tune done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 so i was doin some spirited driving yesterday... and i decided to pull up learning view and log some of my driving... what i saw kinda scared me... had to go back to 91 octane... and the results were a little frightening to me.... here they are... last night and this morning i had numbers as low as -11.....romraiderlog_20090518_165357.csvromraiderlog_20090518_211734.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legend Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 I don't know why you'd be running 93 octane due to it's scarcity in this state. There must be 10 E85 outlets for each 93 octane outlet. What is there like 2-3 places in the state you can buy 93 octane? If you are going to mess with anything other than 91oct I don't know why it wouldn't be E85. It's 105 octane, more readily available, and cheaper. You'll have headroom to run E85 once you get your new turbo, FMIC, and 740's... but it might be tight up top! Those are some ugly LV's... but who cares you are going a whole new route with new hardware anyways. Lay low and keep your engine alive. My '05 LGT My '07 Supercharged Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 This is odd...I always thought if you pull more than 3.9 degrees in flKC your IAM resets and we start over? Good news is the knoc the LV is showing is probably false knock..that is the stock portion of the map. Your logs do show a couple events of knock at WOT..those should be adressed (lower timing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tingtang Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 I don't know why you'd be running 93 octane due to it's scarcity in this state. There must be 10 E85 outlets for each 93 octane outlet. What is there like 2-3 places in the state you can buy 93 octane? If you are going to mess with anything other than 91oct I don't know why it wouldn't be E85. It's 105 octane, more readily available, and cheaper. You'll have headroom to run E85 once you get your new turbo, FMIC, and 740's... but it might be tight up top! Those are some ugly LV's... but who cares you are going a whole new route with new hardware anyways. Lay low and keep your engine alive. so you think it will be fine for probably another mmonth or so?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merchgod Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 This is odd...I always thought if you pull more than 3.9 degrees in flKC your IAM resets and we start over? That is only one condition. You must also be in the rough corr load/rpm ranges when the FLKC < -3.9 or > 3.9 (ranges which could have been modified by the tuner). Also, the minimum advance map threshold must be met, which may not be the case at these low loads (threshold is > 4.0 degrees), again, which depends on what this map looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legend Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 so you think it will be fine for probably another mmonth or so?? Since you have less than a month on this tune and hardware I would just keep it real simple: 1) Limit WOT and spirited driving 2) Get that damn SPT intake off (find a stocker) since that's probably your main problem. 3) Drop your whole DA table by 2 or 3 degrees My '05 LGT My '07 Supercharged Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.