TRSCobra Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I just bought a Spec stage 2+ clutch,OEM WRX flywheel, and TSK2 for my 05 LGT, but the throwout bearings look and operate COMPLETELY different. The Subaru dealer told me the TSK2 was the correct one for my early MY05 LGT, but I don't even see how it would work with this clutch, as the fingers are too far apart for the bearing to contact. OR is the TSK2 correct for my car and the WRX bearing not the correct one for my shift fork? I know the only real way to check would be to take the whole thing apart, but I want to have this done in one shot, since I'm renting the bay to work on my car. Cliff's notes: Will the 06-07 WRX TOB work with my early MY05 LGT clutch fork? TSK2 on the left, Spec WRX TOB on the right. http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/TRSCobra/IMG_0618.jpg http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/TRSCobra/IMG_0617.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Well, I exchanged the TSK 2 for the TSK 3, which is identical to the spec TOB. Now to find out if these will work with my clutch fork! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easy19 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 what model year flywheel are you using? is this to discard the dual mass flywheel? let me know how it goes as i was thinking of this same mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 06-07 WRX flywheel/clutch. I'm going to start working on the car today, I hope this works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 TSK3 is what you need. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Well, the clutch is in, just needs to be adjusted. The TSK3 was perfect with the exception of "sliding" the sleeve over the quill. I had to sand the crap out of it and eventually tap it with a hammer and brass punch. In retrospect, I would have used a piece of wood or plastic because the brass punch put small nicks on the end of the sleeve that I later had to sand down. Yes, I know you should only hammer on the shoulder, but getting a solid hit on the tiny shoulder is near impossible. As for the clutch; the pedal effort is nothing compared to my stocker. I'd say less than half! It's releasing way high, (I'm about to adjust it) but is still driveable. I get a small amount of chatter if I release the clutch very slowly, but otherwise it feels close to stock. I also dropped down to a 15psi MAP for the 500 mile break in period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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