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Thoughts on BC Racing coilovers?


AlexD

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I wanted to see if I could get some more reviews on the BC coilovers.

 

My LGT is my DD and I'm trying to weigh my decisions. Currently I'm on OEM struts (70k miles) and STi Pinks. The ride is getting a little rough for my taste. I don't mind "stiff" BMW-ish suspension, but I can't stand jarring "dying" suspensions.

 

I drive in and out of Baltimore and DC on a daily basis (roads in Baltimore are crap - potholes, dips, imperfections in the road, humps etc) and I'm looking for something thats going to make me happy and at the same time be a comfortable ride. I will never be tracking this car... that's what my Miata is for (which ironically has BCs... thanks Josh! :) )

 

I drove a Spec B about 3 years ago with BCs all the way from NJ to TN and did not recall really hating the ride, but it was also 3+ years ago, and it was also mostly highway.

 

I'm looking for recommendations, I'm on a budget. I'm looking at Konis + Pinks, Bilsteins + Pinks, and possibly the RCE Tarmac Is or KW V2s, but they are a bit out of my price point.

 

 

Who can comment on DDing BCs, through city streets?

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depends on the spring rates you get. you can make adjustments to the dampening to keep it more then livable on a daily drive to work, with or without the wife and kids (or girlfriend etc)

we have customers driving around the horrible streets of NYC without problems, i recall even a legacy gt customer with the stiffer inverteds and upgraded springs running around NYC as well...maybe they will chime in.

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As soon as I can find some spec b setup, I will have my BC coilovers for sale. I loved them, my wife....not so much.

 

Out of curiosity, how much preload do you have on your BC BRs? It was hard to drive other people in the car (wife, daughters, etc) before I cranked in more. Now it's much better.

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Adjusting them is pretty easy if you have a relatively flat area, a jack, a jack stand and something to measure with (and the adjusting spanners that came with them of course). When I was messing with mine, I got it to about an hour, hour and a half or so to adjust the four wheels. It's worth it even if you eventually change them out. It will make them more pleasant til then.
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I have mine set at around 1.5" in the front and .75" in the back. I might add to this in .25 " increments but for now I'm pretty happy. These measurements are approximate since the measurements were done one after another as opposed to starting from scratch (zero preload) each time. I kept track of 3 measurements - the amount of thread screwed into the lower barrel, the amount of thread exposed between the upper rings and the lower lock ring and the length of the spring coils after adjustment.

 

You have to keep in mind that adding preload will increase the ride height by the amount of the preload. Therefore, if you want to stay ride height neutral (a good idea to keep your alignment specs intact), you will need to screw the upper barrel into the lower barrel an equal amount. This essentially lowers the car by the amount the preload raises it. After you have made your double adjustment, the amount of threaded barrel exposed between the upper and lower springs should be the same.

 

It's probably best if you are starting over, to take out the existing preload to the point where the adjuster ring is just touching the spring (i.e., zero preload). But try to keep track of how much this amount you subtract is because you will need to lower the car by the same amount. The best way to do this is to measure the amount of exposed thread before you make any adjustments. This will remain constant for your alignment/ride height settings. Once you are at zero preload, then compress the spring by whatever preload you want (e.g., 1.5"). Then screw the upper barrel into the lower barrel by the same amount. This again is most easily measured by the amount of exposed threaded barrel.

 

I hope that helps. After doing it once or twice, it becomes pretty intuitive. Even for me.

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Just ordered a set through Import Image. I went the stiff route with 10k/10k spring rates, and I'm looking VERY forward to it. I have Tein Flexs now and they feel too bouncy even on the stiffest dampening setting.

 

Willl post how it goes once I get them in.

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  • 2 years later...
So what is the generally accepted best spring rate setup? Im looking into these because any strut with the springs I want (swift) will be within a few hundred of the BC's price. And i dont really plan to track it that often, once or twice a year, but I do plan to lower it at least as much as swifts, maybe more. Also can these be adjusted enough to give the car a slightly raked look?
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Since when were we taking about outback applications? It depends on what you're looking for. KYB's on stock springs aren't bad, they're better dampers than stock. Then as you know there's the jdm outback bilstein setup.

 

To get the BC's at outback height you'd have to custom order them with the longer damper bodies, and it will still end up lowering it about an inch. You will also pretty much loose the "outback" functionality, i.e. you shouldn't leave the asphalt.

 

So yes, you're kinda stuck if you want an upgraded ob setup at stock height that's not the jdm kit. You could go megan, but that's pretty much the same as BC, and it seems like BC's are a little more reliable.

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