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Stage 2 with less boost than stock


car_guy1

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So I tuned to stage 2 with the folling changes. I'm not the tuner so this is the best info i can give:

 

-Boost moved from a peak of 13 to 17.5

-Boost Controller int DC% changed

-Max wgdc limit moved to 95%

-Boost cut set to 19.92 psi

-Ign timing changed to account for extra boost

-Fuel map changed

-Cl to Ol tps transition changed.

-FLKC load limit now 4

-RLKC load limit now 4

 

I have an invidia catless DP, STI UP, and a K&N panel filter.

 

Before the tune it felt slower than stock, after the tune there was almost no change in the performance. The boost peaks at 11.26 psi. I thought the solenoid might be bad so I changed it out, no difference. I removed the lie going to the wastegate and it did hit over boost and cut the fuel triggering a CEL but still didnt feel any different.

 

Any thoughts? I'm going to install new plugs tonight (1 step colder), and check the power to the harness for the solenoid, but after that, I'm baffled. The other thing I can think of is the ramifacation of not pluging back in the EGTS because the STI pipe has no bung for it and after we supressed the code thats messing it up. I don't know.

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If it felt slower than stock BEFORE the tune then I would put money on it being a boost leak or a vacuum hose. Any number of vacuum lines could have popped off and caused this even on a stock tune. This will cause the wastegate actuator to operate on spring pressure only.

The usual culprit is one of the hoses that go into the tee under the intercooler. Pull the intercooler and check for a little blue or gray tee right up close to the middle of the intake manifold. While you are in there, you may as well zip tie them all on since they are know to pop off now and then. Another thing to check is to make sure that all the band clamps in the intake tract are tight. The main ones to check will be on the throttle body hose as higher boost can blow by/out of the throttle body hose if it's not tight. Also make sure the intercooler is sealing up to the turbo and do the same for the BOV.

I've had this happen from both things described above. Right after going stage2, I popped a vacuum line and then after putting on a Perrin TMIC; I had the TOB hose clamp walk off the hose and cause a leak right at the throttle body. In both cases I couldn't hit boost targets.

Let's kick this pig!
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Good find. I had to replace my stock one last year. The turbo end of the inlet is pretty thin and the band clamp that holds it to the tubo chews it up pretty bad and the heat doesn't do it any favors either. Now for the fun part. Putting the new one on.
Let's kick this pig!
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I just found out I won't get my part until monday now. When I do I'll take a picture. Yeah, I can't wait to change this hose, i've been reading the horror stories about it. it can't be worse than doing the uppipe right? I'm not laying on my back the whole time doing it.

 

As for the EGT, I have not tried the resistor fix yet, I figured with the giant hole in my hose that would do the trick. I'll do it with the hose replacement and see.

 

As for how it got there? I know the turbo has been off twice. Once by the dealer last year in Ann Arbor, (by the way, never ever go there. hacks, thieves an douche bags), and 1 time when I replaced my down pipe. I had to remove the turbo to fix the oil return off the turbo because it was leaking. Myself or the dealer may have torn it a bit while re-installing the turbo. The hole is very close to where it fits over the turbo pipe. who knows, Even it it was me I still blame the dealer.

 

you want to take a picture of the leak? How do you think it got there? I am fighting the same lean AFR problem.
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I just found out I won't get my part until monday now. When I do I'll take a picture. Yeah, I can't wait to change this hose, i've been reading the horror stories about it. it can't be worse than doing the uppipe right? I'm not laying on my back the whole time doing it.

 

As for the EGT, I have not tried the resistor fix yet, I figured with the giant hole in my hose that would do the trick. I'll do it with the hose replacement and see.

 

As for how it got there? I know the turbo has been off twice. Once by the dealer last year in Ann Arbor, (by the way, never ever go there. hacks, thieves an douche bags), and 1 time when I replaced my down pipe. I had to remove the turbo to fix the oil return off the turbo because it was leaking. Myself or the dealer may have torn it a bit while re-installing the turbo. The hole is very close to where it fits over the turbo pipe. who knows, Even it it was me I still blame the dealer.

 

I have the CEL for the EGT probe disabled, but still have the EGT probe plugged in and zip-tied to a hose and it's never been the issue with lost boost or any other part of tuning for that matter.

 

As for the turbo inlet hose; taking the turbo off a couple times will do it. Mine started right at the turbo end of the hose when I took the turbo off the first time a few years ago. I just slide the band clamp up the hose far enough to cover it and it lasted for about a year. After that I put a Perrin inlet hose on. IIRC their install instructions something like "... and at some point during the install you will think this is impossible...":lol:. The stock one shouldn't be as bad, but I bet it's not fun either. Keep us posted.

Let's kick this pig!
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  • 2 weeks later...

What a pain in the ass changing that hose was. I wanted to punch a subaru engineer about an hour into it. I finally got it changed out and my old hose was all tore up. I also did the 2.2 ohm resistor thing. It does run better, a lot better. but I still don't think I'm getting the extra boost I'm tuned for. I need a boost gauge to tell. I think I'm going to buy one of those cool things that replaces the trip computer as a boost gauge.

 

 

http://sz0099.ev.mail.comcast.net/service/home/~/0509091219.jpg?auth=co&loc=en_US&id=29556&part=2http://sz0099.ev.mail.comcast.net/service/home/~/0509091219a.jpg?auth=co&loc=en_US&id=29555&part=2

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