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Newby Question re Rear Outback Stabilizer Bar


Rick D.

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I posted this over in the Outback forum and I think I figured out it was the wrong place. So, here it is: I have always been a bit displeased with the understeer on my 06 XT. It seems a lot more pronounced than my 02 Outback Sport. Anyhow, I dumped the stock tires and put on Toyos which have significantly better directional stability and improve the turn-in. But, it still feels like too much understeer. I am considering a heavier rear stabilizer bar, reinforced brackets, and more rigid bushings, including for the front bar.

 

If anyone has done something similar, I'd like to hear about it and more to the point, did those new bushings add much chop? Did they make a difference in transitions?

 

Thanks in advance. OK, so the bushings I'm referring to are the HD non-OEM poly bushings which I am also considering for the front bar and steering rack. I understand I have to put in the HD rear bar mounts too. I had also understood the poly bushes squeek. Any one care to comment? /COLOR]

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have you considered using the standard font?

 

as for the suspension, start by cranking up the front camber to as much as you can get, which will be about 1.5 degrees. -2 would be better. Also get a big rear swaybar. There's a lot more to do than that, but it's a very inexpensive first step.

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I don't have an outback but I do have a wagon. I have cusco sways front and rear, 23 mm and 21 mm, and AVO reinforcement brackets for the rear. I replaced the rubber bushings that came with the cusco's (as they did not last) with energy suspension universal poly greasable bushings from ultrarev.com. The rear size 21 mm does not come as a greasable unit so I made them greasable by drilling and tapping in grease plugs. I use Prothane grease from Jegs that you can buy in tubes for the grease gun, fantastic stuff for poly bushings or anything else for that matter, very sticky and waterproof. They have never squeaked on me as a result and are far better then rubber bushings. I am running OEM endlinks and cusco underbracing front and rear. Handling and turn in are very much improved.
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It's possible, but in a real life, drive your car like it's meant to be driven, type of situation they will not hold.

 

 

Just because they are not broken, doesn't mean they aren't worn and not performing properly.

 

If you say so but I would have to respectfully disagree at least in my case.

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If you add just a rear sway bar you will decrease under steer dramaticly. Most out there have adjustible holes for firm or soft, you can tune your stiffness.

 

My Perrin rear 22mm is awesome. i have mine set on soft and my car is pretty neutral considering Im on stock springs. The bar comes with stout mounts, bushings and energy suspension grease. I used my stock endlinks. $180 shipped from Beans!

 

Plus you get pretty stickers and the bar is a pretty red color;)

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Also consider a rear strut tower brace to eliminate the body torque which translates to rear suspension inefficiency.

Being a wagon, there is little lateral bracing.

About $150 will set you up with a good brace.

 

I'll be at Streets of Willow in May with my OBXT. Those Shelby's won't know what hit them. :)

 

Cheers!

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IMNSHO - With more than the JDM 20mm hollow RSB, I'd suggest the mount braces offered by AVO & others. As for alignment, it's an Outback, so you probably won't get more than about 0.7 negative deg camber up front. Rear camber, like front caster, is not adjustable without adding more parts.
06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest.
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