SharonL381 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Has anyone else had this shuttering problem when apply their brakes at a higher speed? I just had the front rotors machined and this did not seem to fix the problem. Any thoughts or suggestions?? Thanks, Sharon 2005 Subaru Legacy GT turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byronchrisp05 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 could be the rear rotors, or the fronts might not have been machined correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Could also be balljoints too. (or rear rotors). The stock pads are notorious for leaving pad deposits. Does this only happen when braking? Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 i have something similar since brand new on my car. very light and pulsating like your describing... hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowFast Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I have the same, only when breaking from high speed. I am fairly certain my brakes are about shot, just need to find the time to replace them. Update: On further inspection it turns out it was just pad deposits ont he rotors. I guess this is just due to the sorry stock pads. After doing a bedding proceedure the pulsing/wobble went away. I have now switched to Wilwoods but when removing the stock rotors they still look good although the pads had seen better days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 front + rear rotors will help, and some hps pads make the shuddering go away. if it still occurs get better brake fluid, the shuddering sometimes occurs due to the fluid reaching a certain boiling point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitz Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hey, I've also had this problem from when I first got my 06 2.5i. It happens while just cruising as well without my foot on the brake albeit not as much when I am braking. While cruising it seems like something is outta round and a slight grinding noise that is causing some friction somewhere. When braking I get some strong grinding and shuddering. It really is a pain in the ass and the dealer doesn't know what it is. Magnetic, does the above sound like ball joints?(I had both wheel bearings in the front replaced but that didnt help). The calipers seem to get really hot after a 40min ride so it makes me think they are sticking somehow but the car doesn't pull in either direction. Sorry for the hijacking, but this seems like a very common problem for legacies. Would new caliper rebuilds help or new calipers? I am going to get new front rotors, flush fluid, SS lines, and maybe replace my HPS with ceramic pads. What do you guys think? -Bitz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 i think if you do all that you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvento Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I have the racing brakes fronts 4pot with316mm all 4 corner, and I'am having shaking at coming down from 120-55mph and 100-25 mph of courss on the track in the right front wheel bearing maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hey, I've also had this problem from when I first got my 06 2.5i. It happens while just cruising as well without my foot on the brake albeit not as much when I am braking. While cruising it seems like something is outta round and a slight grinding noise that is causing some friction somewhere. When braking I get some strong grinding and shuddering. It really is a pain in the ass and the dealer doesn't know what it is. Magnetic, does the above sound like ball joints?(I had both wheel bearings in the front replaced but that didnt help). The calipers seem to get really hot after a 40min ride so it makes me think they are sticking somehow but the car doesn't pull in either direction. Sorry for the hijacking, but this seems like a very common problem for legacies. Would new caliper rebuilds help or new calipers? I am going to get new front rotors, flush fluid, SS lines, and maybe replace my HPS with ceramic pads. What do you guys think? -Bitz Rebuild the calipers first since that will be cheaper. You can also inspect pad wear to see if they are sticking. You can also try to inspect ball joints by moving the wheel around up in the air and see if there is play. Could also be pads moving around, knockback, vibrations... tons of things. Hard to diagnose and may be different in each case. Id go through the cheapest parts to replace. The HPS to Ceramic wont change anything, save your money. Fluid would not cause the car to shudder or vibrate. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNSTARS Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I too am having issues with pulsating brakes at high speed, machined the rotors... better but not gone. Thinking new rotors and pads... but i am contemplating new calipers. $1200 for willwoods and $1500 for brembos. I have 3 questions. 1) Is it necessary to get new calipers? 2) Can the seized, destroyed brembo bolt problem be prevented by replacing the standard steel bolt in the aluminum caliper with an aluminum bolt in an aluminum caliper? it would makes sense. 3) Has anyone heard any reason NOT to buy the Willwoods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocalu99 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 If you can feel the pulsating all the way up in the steering wheel, it generally means ur front rotors are cracked or warped. Every time ive ever experienced this, replacing the rotors solves it. And of course when you put on new rotors, you need to put on new pads too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocalu99 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 get some rotors that dissipate heat really well...thats when they crack and warp, when they are hot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 With the LGT, it appears from what others have experienced, it is not a warped or cracked rotor. It is as simple as the OE pad compound leaving deposits on the rotors. While machining or replacing the rotors will solve the problem, it will only come back unless you change the pads. If you replace with a better pad compound the problem will prolly go away. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 With the LGT, it appears from what others have experienced, it is not a warped or cracked rotor. It is as simple as the OE pad compound leaving deposits on the rotors. While machining or replacing the rotors will solve the problem, it will only come back unless you change the pads. If you replace with a better pad compound the problem will prolly go away. had this problem 4 times.. I'm done with oem pads and rotors because of this pita. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heat Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I have an '09 LGT with about 15k miles. Generally the brakes are fine. However, yesterday when I braked at about 130mph I also felt moderate shudder even in the steering wheel. It wasn't heavy braking so I was sort of surprised. Really think this is deposits from the original pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 uuuh... autocrossing with a brand new lgt? It can get to a point where a "wabwabwab" noise can be heard in the rear (if the problem exists in the rear) and/or shaking.. and if it exists in the front, the noise and the steering wheel shaking from slightly to badly can also occur. My car right now is in th emoderate wheel shaking but no noise stage.. new rotors coming tuesday.. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkside Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I also have same problem.. I have stage 2 racing brake kit from fred beans.. It includes new front and rear slotted rotors, new brake lines , hawk hps pads and motul racing fluid and I still get the shakes as well.. After install and break in, still got shakes.. Personaly I think the stock calipers suck, and is main reason this happens.. because the 2 pots are on one side of the caliper only. When stopping at high speeds, the caliper squeases but, i think pots put more clamping force on one side of rotor.. A example when racing , if you apply brakes while turning in sharp turns, calipers dont grip, and i can feel rotor slide of caliper , making noise and pedal feel is a little frightening even with new brake lines.. I think it creates and uneven grip when braking , causing shakes. Some times you can bottom out brake pedal due to crappy small master cylinder.... I am completely disgusted with the legacy gt brakes.. Subaru You suck at making brakes.. Doesnt any body at subaru test this garbage before they put in on car. I am saving up for stoptech big brake kit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKUltra Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I want to upgrade my brake soon, as I am have a similar issue. I have 51k miles on my 05 LGT. I don't konw if these are the original brakes that came when the car was new. I bought this car 26k miles ago. I would assume they are not. I want to have my stock calipers powder coated, but was wondering if i would be better off buying a new set of similar oem calipers all around. I would like to maybe upgrade my calipers but not to a BBK. Any ideas there? Then I was going to go to DBA 4000 slotted rottorsF/R, SS lines, HPS pads, and ATE super blue fluid. I would image this will get rid on my shaking problems, but will I eventually have problems with the calipers seeing that they are 50k miles in. I would just like to avoid any weakest link problems in the future seeing how braking is kinda important... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 For calipers, get the Wilwood calipers from brakeswap (magnetic1). Fits stock rotors. Lots of pad choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowFast Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 For calipers, get the Wilwood calipers from brakeswap (magnetic1). Fits stock rotors. Lots of pad choice. +1, I have them and love'em Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACKonBLACK Limited Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 im thinking its not the brakes but something else, i am having the same issue. Like someone said balljoints?? loose control arms?? something else i dont know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I have this issue in my 08 spec b. Only when applying brakes from high speed though. Very annoying. I don't understand how you buy a $35k turbo'd awd performance sedan, and then have brakes that feel completely unsteady when slowing down from speed. I mentioned it to the dealer at one point and of course they couldn't reproduce the issue. I had this same problem in my 1995 Saturn SL2. In that vehicle it was a matter of warping rotors. At $20 a rotor I just changed them out regularly. I don't plan on having to do that with my spec b... I'll try new pads to see if that resolves the issue and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKUltra Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 +1, I have them and love'em I heard those were more for racing/auto-cross. Which I don't do just a lot of spirited driving. I would like to do that just don't want to lose my normal day to day braking as well. Any problems here? Also not sure if I want to drop that much in to a full brake kit at this time. What other good but cheap alternitives are there to stock calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerboa113 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I just installed hawk hps pads and racingbrake slotted rotors on all 4. I've got goodridge SS hoses and ATE fluid flush on the way. I just broke them in today.. and then drove 3 hours at highway speeds.. during break-in and after on city roads they were doing great, but once I got off the highway they were fading kind of bad.. they're probably not fully broken in yet but I did follow procedure. Will let you know in the long run the results of this swap. Right now I have mixed feelings.. "The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.