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6MT Master Swap Thread


HAMMER DOWN

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Well my dad & I, got my 5MT out. WAPITA , :) took a punch and drove the alinement pins back alittle. Thanks ,Gator GT. Then my dad used a chisel & hammer to split the two chases from the top, as I work the bottom of the tranny with pray bars. Now I'm at a standstill, AGAIN, DMF as torque bolts. So I grabbed my bits. And to my dismay :mad: the bolt is in between a T-50 & a T-55. So it's back to sears, napa or wherever I can find it. With my luck, it's a special tool. I have to buy from snap-on or alike.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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  • 2 weeks later...
and where are the pics of the solstice GXP?? :O drool! although, i still want the sky version... awesome car for the price!

 

Here they are. This 2.0L, 260 HP & 260 FT. torque. Will hit 18psi. thats was a unexpected.http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0707070915.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0707070916.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0707070916a.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0707070915a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0707070914.jpg

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks to rao pointing me in the right direction. The tool you need to take off your 05 GT's DMF is a TROX PLUS T-50.

Where I live it's not avalible at any & I mean any auto or tool stores. I did a web search. I found then at Snop-on.com for almost $27ea. + shipping. And Mytoolstore.com for S\K 3\8 drive almost $14 + shipping. I order 3 S\K's & got 2. Just in case I broke a bit or two. I used the bit with my impact wrench. Spun all 8 bolt, with out breaking anything. Which is surprising, because of the way this project was going.

The 6MT fly wheel, clutch assm. is in. And hope to have tranny in by the weekend.

Same info. to share. weight is by digital bathroom scale. 05 GT DMF weighs 28.5lbs. The 05 STi FW weighs 18lbs.

 

Just thought I'll share

Mike

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More pics to share. The 6Mt is in:icon_cool . Drop off the drive shafts today. Hope to have them by friday.

 

I use the GT's tranny mounting bracket and STi transaxle mounts. So that makes the 6MT a direct bolt in to the motor & the underbody.

 

Modification #1) Need to shim out the back of the shifter assembly about 3/8". I used 5 flat washer on ea. bolts that is 3\8"longer. Has you'll see in the pics. The washer was the easies way to make the spacers, because of the angles of the bolts go into the body of the car.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072050.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072051.jpg

 

Here's pics. of how tite 6MT fit in the GT driveline tunnel.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072053a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072053.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072051a.jpg

 

Another note, if your looking for wire Dia. of your GT's 5MT. Like pin out locations & what plugs in to where. I found that in the Impreza wiring manual. Not the Legacy's. Which leads me to believe that are GT's 5MT is really an 04 STi 5MT. I think that was the yr. The frist yr. the STi came to the U.S. did have a 5MT. That the only thing that's makes any since. Looking at these two wiring manuals from Subaru.

 

Mike

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Remove that clutch delay valve (I can see it in the picture on the tranny) and run the hose directly to the slave.

 

Going have to keep that clutch delay valve. I have no flex hose with that kind of fitting. See pic.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072103a.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072103.jpg

 

The end of the GT's flex hole has a banjo type fitting. So for now I'll will be keeping the valve. If I don't like the valve. I can either gut it or look into having a hose made.

 

Mike

Edited by HAMMER DOWN

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the STi in the US has always had the 6MT

 

I have to do some digging, In one of the auto mag. They had a past to present of the STi & EVO. From where they begain to where they think they will be in 08. The frist STi did have 5MT.

 

Mike

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Looks dangerous! But she rock solid. The front of the car is 23" in the air. 6MT + jack = 20" need every in. What makes her so solid is the rear is on ramps.Which give it a good base. The 3 ton jack stands in front of the front wheels are hold 99% of that half of the weight. The 2 ton jack stands in front of the front wheels are there to take the load off the front clip. Don't want her to bend or twist anything. She been there about a mo.

 

Mike

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Looks dangerous! But she rock solid. The front of the car is 23" in the air. 6MT + jack = 20" need every in. What makes her so solid is the rear is on ramps.Which give it a good base. The 3 ton jack stands in front of the front wheels are hold 99% of that half of the weight. The 2 ton jack stands in front of the front wheels are there to take the load off the front clip. Don't want her to bend or twist anything. She been there about a mo.

 

Mike

It took you a month to get the car that high?!?!?! You need a lift man! :spin:

lol
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It took you a month to get the car that high?!?!?! You need a lift man! :spin:

 

:lol::lol::lol::lol: Work, waiting on parts & time. yes a lift would be nice. This lift took about an hour. Floor jacks don't go that high. So it was jack it, set on stands. add wood blocks to jacks, jack again, you get the pic. PITFA. But thankful for use of my friends garage. With no time limit. My last tranny job[ 95 gmc], was done in my dirt driveway. So this is big impovement.

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yeah, I'd get a broader base on those front clip jack stand bases. I'm not questioning strength of the built "bases", but the lateral stability of them is my concern.

 

Precarious, yes, I may have added some ramps to the front wheels and built up a base under those, and had jack stands behind the front wheels for safety.

 

Keep up the good work tho Hammer.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed." - T. Jefferson
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when working on her you'll be tugging and twisting her, I strongly suggest you brace the front of the car sideways somehow or you may be making the 6 oclock news :eek:

 

I tested [shake the car to right & left harder then I would ever shake it to drop the transaxle] the rigging before I started the swap. I wouldn't go under the car if I didn't think it was safe.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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yeah, I'd get a broader base on those front clip jack stand bases. I'm not questioning strength of the built "bases", but the lateral stability of them is my concern.

 

Ya, I would have, but those jack stands don't hold that much weight. They are there to take the load off the front clip. Don't want her to bend or twist anything. She been up in the air for about a mo.

 

Precarious, yes, I may have added some ramps to the front wheels and built up a base under those, and had jack stands behind the front wheels for safe.

 

Would be nice, but need to remove front wheel to drop transaxle. You mite not see that the front is higher the the back of the car. This + rear on ramps + the cars "E"brake on, so not to roll. She soild & safe to work under.

 

Mike

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http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/100_4303.jpg

 

I'm sure you know way more about auto mechanics than I do, but I'd be scared $hitless working under that rig either way lol

 

I guess you can call it a EXTREME swap:lol::lol::lol:. It looks more dangerous, them it really is.

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My 6MT shifter didn't come with a shifting knob. So I went to Autozone. I bought new shift knob. I was looking for an all aluminum knob. Just incase I had to mod. the knob so the reverse lockout knob will work right.

 

I used a 1\2" to 1" step drill to widen the bottem of the shifting knob. So the reverse lockout knob can slide up inside of it.

 

Pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071413.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071413a.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071425.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071424.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071426a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0805071426.jpg

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Wow! All I gotta say is if everything works right when your done, I am impressed. I looked at the whole thread and I couldnt tell if you're still using the stock halfshafts. Just to let you know from a fellow LGT dragracer I have sheered a rear halfshaft in my LGT. Hope the swap all works out!
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Wow! All I gotta say is if everything works right when your done, I am impressed. I looked at the whole thread and I couldnt tell if you're still using the stock halfshafts. Just to let you know from a fellow LGT dragracer I have sheered a rear halfshaft in my LGT. Hope the swap all works out!

 

Thanks, I'm using all 4 GT's halfshafts

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1157231&postcount=29

 

Now waiting on two final parts; A DCCD controller. He's out of stock right now.

 

http://www.dccdpro.com/

 

http://dccdpro.com/?page_id=5

 

And my custom made drive shafts. That is rebuildable.

http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/

 

 

FYI; That late model Subaru's have unrebuildale drive shafts. The only thing you can replace is the cerrier bearing. If the u-joint goes bad. It's time for a NEW drive shaft. Before I went a head with the custom shafts. I price a New one for 07 Spec B. Over $650.00:eek: I'm shure my custom shafts will be almost as much, but at least I can rebuild it. For pennys on the dollar.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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