BrandonspecB Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I live in Layton. My parents and some friends live in Sandy area, so I'm usually down there on weekends for a bit. I'd have no problem meeting up. My car probably won't be driveable this coming weekend, but should be next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketpanda40 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 (edited) Well, I just completed my swap in a 2008 Outback XT. At least mostly. May be one of the cheapest ones yet, but to be fair I didn't do the "full" swap. I got a Forester STi tranny with Impreza mount for $1500. A random R160 with 3.90 gearing to match the Forester tranny's front diff, and swapped the ring and pinion into my OB's LSD. That was $125. $50 for a 4EAT driveshaft, another $45 for a 6mt slave cylinder. $260 for a 2015 STi flywheel and clutch with only 15k on it. Finally, ~$200 for odds and ends from cheapsubaruparts (shift linkage, new clutch fork bc the one that came with the tranny was in pretty rough shape, some seals and such). All in, about $2200, and I did the swap in my garage, on jack stands (22" high), by myself, over the course of about 3 days (maybe 2-2.5 in work days, I only committed about 5hrs of work a couple days). It was pretty easy since the old tranny was just dropped a couple months ago for a new clutch (ugh! That was a waste of money), so the hardest part was actually just getting the 6 speed under the car and then onto the tranny jack. Like a dummy, I forgot to order a new reverse lockout cable, and the one on the tranny is Impreza length so it doesn't really lockout as it should. Oh well, I'll get it eventually. While I was under the car, I also installed new grounds for both heads since they were both gone, and also discovered that the car previously had an exedy lightweight flywheel (in addition to the Perrin lightweight crank pulley), so I'm hoping that putting the stock sti flywheel in and replacing those grounds fixes my intermittent random misfires too. All I have left to do in the car is reinstall the intercooler and intake! Edited May 5, 2021 by rocketpanda40 More info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shogun506 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 So reading through the important posts I'm 95% sure this is correct, but can someone just confirm for me that the 2008+ STI transmission (I'm using a 2011) works with the stock front axles from the LGT (mine is 2005)? Just want to firm up my plans. Here are the main things I'm using if anyone is interested. 2011 STI 6 speed and all of its accessories 2011 STI R180 diff (plan to flip the flange from my lgt diff) Stock LGT front axles *Auto driveshaft *Spec B rear axles (or axle end kit I read about to convert the LGT axles to work) Starred stuff I need to order. Everything else is coming off my parts 2011 STI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 I believe they are interchangeable, but I'm not positive. There is a difference in the groove pattern between Spec B front axles and 2008 USDM Outback 5EAT front axles. I'm not sure if they physically can be interchanged without an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crjohnson Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 Hey Rcnesneg awesome work with the auto ecu and evtv thing! How does it drive? I wonder how much the ecu maps are different between auto and manual ecu's? My manual 3.0r ecu is a little annoying when changing gears. If you give it some stick, I can pretty much change into the next gear and be ready to let the clutch out, before the engine starts to drop in revs. So the engine is always at a much higher RPM than the next gear (when driving hard..) . I've even heard the tyres chirp and traction light come on when hardshifting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 Hey Rcnesneg awesome work with the auto ecu and evtv thing! How does it drive? I wonder how much the ecu maps are different between auto and manual ecu's? My manual 3.0r ecu is a little annoying when changing gears. If you give it some stick, I can pretty much change into the next gear and be ready to let the clutch out, before the engine starts to drop in revs. So the engine is always at a much higher RPM than the next gear (when driving hard..) . I've even heard the tyres chirp and traction light come on when hardshifting It drives good! The only issue I have is a slight overrun while shifting I'm still working on. I've gotten good at releasing the pedal a second before shifting and that pretty much masks it. Over 5000 rpm the shifts are crisp and smooth! I only have issues with the overrun "burp" between 3000 and 5000 rpm. Here's what happens with my overrun "burp" if I really try to exaggerate it. We think it might be EGR related but we aren't sure. Still trying to figure out. Here's the differences in world market ROMS for auto and manual 3.0R that I've found in the tables. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1K_gdUnv832fJmmK64xLzxbUnjWC4PVg5gguz77_Y5sU/edit?usp=sharing Regarding traction light - Yes, I've gotten that if I launch it and dump the clutch into second as well. Light comes on, computer thinks, applies brakes for a second, and then I'm good to go again. I've had that happen twice. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the outbacks soft suspension allowing the car to shift weight forward and backwards more than normal, resulting in different front/rear wheel speeds for a second which freaks out the VDC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 It might be interesting to try logging accelerator pedal angle and throttle blade angle. If you plot those over time you'll be able to see whether the ECU is adding to the throttle angle, and under what conditions. There's something that stops the throttle blade from going all the way to idle in MT cars when the vehicle speed gets slightly above zero, and I didn't notice it for years. So I wonder if AT ECUs have their own quirks that just aren't noticeable under normal circumstances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 It might be interesting to try logging accelerator pedal angle and throttle blade angle. If you plot those over time you'll be able to see whether the ECU is adding to the throttle angle, and under what conditions. There's something that stops the throttle blade from going all the way to idle in MT cars when the vehicle speed gets slightly above zero, and I didn't notice it for years. So I wonder if AT ECUs have their own quirks that just aren't noticeable under normal circumstances. Yep - The AT ECU appears to "catch" the throttle a little earlier around 20% and not allow throttle to drop the rest of the way quite as fast as the genuine MT subaru ECU for the 3.0R. Otherwise we can't really tell a difference. And the AT has the same throttle hold above 2 mph. It's mapped in the rom and can be changed as desired. - See attached pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 (edited) Well I'm 6000 miles past my swap and its fantastic. Still wrapping up odds and ends... No difference on the throttle overrun but it's so minor I'm living with it for the time being until two others finish their swaps and start chipping away at it too - It's pretty minimal if you release the gas a tad before shifting. Has anyone run into a normally closed reverse switch on your JDM 6MT? I have a TY856WVDBD (07 JDM Legacy 3.0R spec B 6 speed) and apparently the reverse switch is open in reverse and closed in all other gears - So my reverse lights would be off in reverse and on the rest of the time. Any ideas before I add a relay to reverse it? I thought they were all Normally Open. Thanks! Edited May 21, 2021 by Rcnesneg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 I'm pretty sure we moved the neutral and reverse switches from my 5MT into my 6MT during the swap. But it was a log time ago so I'm not 100% sure. I searched the thread and found something I wrote about moving the netural switch, but I didn't mention the reverse switch. I think they're on the same harness though and we just moved it all from one trans to the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 I'm pretty sure we moved the neutral and reverse switches from my 5MT into my 6MT during the swap. But it was a log time ago so I'm not 100% sure. I searched the thread and found something I wrote about moving the netural switch, but I didn't mention the reverse switch. I think they're on the same harness though and we just moved it all from one trans to the other.I think I did the same based on that old post that you found. I figure I'm at about 3k miles since I out my spec B trans in. Everything is still working great with no problems. Drove it all this week which I haven't done in awhile and remembered why I like this car so much. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Sooo - After adding a relay to reverse the polarity, I discovered I'd somehow mixed up the neutral and reverse switches. I swapped the two in my connector and removed the relay and it works perfectly. So what's left? Some canbus tuning in the arduino (Long term testing and some feedback changes), Cruise clutch cancel switch, and cleaning up the wiring/PCB TCM box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rharripersad Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 I just did the swap on my 2006 JDM BP5. Used a JDM DCCD 6MT from a 2004 STI, swapped the JDM R160 diff yolk onto the JDM R180 rear diff, JDM 4EAT driveshaft, USDM Spec B rear axles, OEM STI Legacy short shifter, GRB STI clutch master and slave, spec b legacy pedals. There's still some wiring to tidy up to get features like clutch in to start etc. but car is driving. Put approx. 16k km on it so far! Can't wait to put on a MapDCCD and play with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Well, The 6MT H6 has sold to it's new owner. In other news, I took it through emissions. No issues and I don't think they even realized it was a manual swap. Which is good, since the ECU, exhaust, etc wasn't touched in the swap. They did an OBD2 check and visual inspection, and possibly a sniffer, I'm not sure. This is in Salt Lake County in Utah. In any case, it means we were 100% successful at swapping a USDM H6 3.0R 5EAT to an H6 3.0R 6MT with fully working emissions, cruise control, vdc, and ABS. And I'm off to my new electric wagon! Send me PMs and they'll end up in my email if it's important. I'll be around. I also get my inbox over on the Subaruoutback.org forum. Cheers to the future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 That was a quick sell. Exactly what car did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 That was extremely quick! I really wanted to 6MT swap my 3.0R. Someone lucked out on their purchase. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 That was a quick sell. Exactly what car did you get? 3 year lease on a Kia Niro EV. Electric car leases are a really good deal, and will be about half the cost to own and operate than my Subaru. Look for EV lease deals and jump on one that's in stock near you. In this case it's $209 a month, plus extra for more miles since I drive a lot. I wasn't real excited about a Kia but thought "Oh whatever, I'll go look at it" and I was very surprised. It's comparable to a brand new outback in terms of quality, space, value, how it drives, etc, except it's electric and has 2" less ground clearance. It's also not AWD. But that's ok with me - it's worth it to go electric. Leasing will also encourage me to not spend all my money on mods. After the lease is up I'm getting an Aptera. (600 mile version with AWD and the offroad kit) The 3.0R was the best gas car I ever had, and I will always have fond memories of it. And the 6MT is the best transmission for sure. I highly recommend the swap if you're wanting to go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckwaters Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 Hey all! Just posting here to let you know who the lucky new owner is of the 6MT swapped Outback that Rcnesneg sold. She's mine now and I have big plans for her. The plan is to swap the 6MT into my other 08 Outback and the 5EAT into the one I just bought. I've never worked on a manual before so I'm looking through the forum trying to learn as much as I can. I want to put a dual mass flywheel in. Does anyone know what the Subaru part number is for the dual mass? I've seen an aftermarket one made by Luk and that is the only other option I've seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Does this help? Stock OEM parts for a 2008 Legacy Spec B? https://parts.natewade.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/49239108__6027257/MT--CLUTCH/B13-100-03.html The clutch that is there right now is an Exedy clutch which I believe is the OEM manufacturer, just not subaru branded. I think they make flywheels too but I'm not sure if they make the dual mass for a Spec B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Why do you want a dual mass? Single mass should be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I've never heard of a dual mass for 6mt, just for a couple years of 5mt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcnesneg Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Dual mass is what the Legacy 3.0R Spec B (H6, 6MT) had (As far as I know). I believe USDM Legacy GT Spec Bs also had it. Dual mass is heavier and smoother. So it's harder to stall the engine, and the car is smoother, but doesn't rev as fast. It's easier to drive for a road car. Single mass is rougher, but will rev faster. So if you're building a car for drag racing, use a single mass. I believe the STIs use a single mass also. They also make ultralight flywheels if you're racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonspecB Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 I have a 12lb ACT Prolite flywheel for mine. Very snappy. Blips for downshifts are effortless. Free Rev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckwaters Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 I've been studying clutches all week and learned a lot. So 240mm seems to be the size STi uses but the 6MT can use smaller clutches if someone wanted. I reached out to an Australian group on Facebook to see what they use and they said some are 230 and some are 240mm. Dual mass was available only in the smaller size. I'm planning to stick with an organic 240mm and a flywheel that isn't much lighter than stock. Currently weighing options like ACT, Exedy and OEM. Once I get the 3.0R supercharged I'll have close to 400hp at the crank and 300hp at the wheels so maybe I should go with ACT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckwaters Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 Does anyone have experience or thoughts on these Clutch Max kits they have on Ebay? I'm trying to understand why they are 1/5 the price of an ACT kits. They say they're made in USA. How bad can they be? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133023884077 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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