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Inner CV Boot Replacement


integroid

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Has anyone done this on a 05+ LGT? Can someone please give me directions? I have tried to find a reman axle but no one has one or can even get one and I am not paying $350 for a new OEM Subaru axle.
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It has splattered grease all over my Downpipe:( It has just cracked as I was under my car last week with no grease.

 

Yeah, I have tech knowledge and was going to buy the tool to tighten the clamp. I was just wondering what is the easiest way of getting the axle out, also, would I have to drain the tranny or get new tranny fluid?

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Yeah, I looked over there. I have read over the Vacation Pics but I have heard some people say it is easier to just take the Bolt off under the hub and seperate it from the LCA? That way you dont have to mess with any of the suspension or brakes. I was just wondering if someone that has done it a few times could just chime in and write up a quick walk through.
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Yeah, just remove the castle nut that secures ball joint to LCA and separate. Then you will be able to swing the strut/knuckle/brakes assembly away enough to pull the axle from the transmission. I installed my 6MT transmission that way.
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Ok, here is what I did for anyone wanting to replace a front inner CV Boot.

 

1. Jack Car up and securely place on Jack Stands,

2. Remove Wheel

3. Remove FSB End Link

4. Remove 32 MM Hub Nut

5. Remove the 14MM bolt that holds the hub onto the LCA Ball Joint. DO NOT REMOVE THE 19MM Lower Ball Joint Nut with the cotter pin. The 14MM bolt is right above the Ball Joint rubber boot towards the front of the car.

6. With a pry bar, seperate the hub from the LCA.

7. Remove the axle from the hub

8. remove the Axle from the transmission by pulling on it or using a prybar between tranmission and the inner halfshaft.

9. Carefully remove the two band clamps on the boot. There are two wings that need to go up, then the center will pull straight up and the band clamp will loosen. These are much better than the replacement clamps that come in the boot kit.

10. Remove the big inner replacement clip. It should be pretty easy to figure out.

11. Get a WAX pen and mark which bearing goes on which stem and also mark the outer part of the half shaft. Basically, you want everything to go back together the same way it came out.

12. I went ahead and got a box cutter and cut off the old boot so I wouldnt have grease flinging around.

13. Remove the c clip at the end of the axle.

14. Put some electrical tape on the three stems.

15. With the wax pen, mark end of the axle so you know exactly how the 3-prong stem goes back on.

16. With a rubber Mallet, Bang each of the stems equally until you can remove the 3 prong stem off of the end of the axle. I was a little worried at first but I just started banging the crap out of it until it finally came off.

17. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Make sure everything you just took apart is spotless. THis will require lots of brake parts cleaners and paper towels. It is messy but you need everything to be spotless.

18. Slip new boot on and remember to put the little band clamp downt he axle first.

19. Line up the 3-prong stem and tap it back into place with your rubber mallet.

20 Replace the C-Clip at the end of the axle.

21 Replace the bearings in the correct position it came out of.

22. Put some of the grease in the half shaft.

23. Place the axle back into the half shaft making sure it goes in the exact position it came out of.

24. Fill it up with grease

25. Slide boot back on the half shaft

26. Reinstall the band clamps.

27 Reinstall the axle in reverse order or removing it.

 

It took me 3 hours to do this. About an hour of it was trying to figure out how to remove the 3 prong stem and another hour was trying to figure out how to seperate the LCA from the hub. I removed the 19 MM bolt instead of the 14mm bolt. I am guessing I could easily do the entire thing in under an hour now. If I had directions like what I wrote above, I would have done it easily in half the time.

 

A few tips.... Get a WAX pen. Buy a throw away pan and brush to clean the parts off. Buy at least two cans of brake parts cleaner. If using the band clamps supplied in the kit, you will need to buy a tool to tighten it.

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^ You did 5-6 it the hard way. Separating the knuckle (not hub) from the ball joint is usually major pita. Separating the ball joint from the LCA is usually easier.

 

Also the transmission oil should be drained before the axle is pulled otherwise the oil will come out.

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I talked to the head Subaru tech at the dealer and he reassured me hardly any tranny fluid would come out. When I popped the axle out, no tranny fluid came out. Sorry, that is what I did...I seperated the knuckle from the ball joint...dont know if I worded it correctly but that is why I said to remove the 14mm and not the 19mm on the bottom of the LCA.
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Yeah, the more I thought about it the more it made sense. I only had that corner of the car lifted so the fluid wouldn't even be on that corner of the tranny. I am guessing that is why nothing came out. He said you will loose maybe 1/2 a quart at the most if any.
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So you weren't able to find the replacment axle I told you about?
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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do you have the part numbers for your boot kit parts?

 

 

Thanks,

Mike

Dude you can buy a new axel for $75. PM me and I will give youy the part number and where you can get it. Why no get brand new?
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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where at?

 

 

Mike

I got it at a part shop call Hap's it near Lakewood on Del Amo and Paramount and they have brand new for $75. the part # is 190n
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Mike, if you live close to Itsme and can get a reman axle for $75, I would do that and rebuild your oem axle when you have time. It is very very messy and a pita when you are in a rush.

 

my uncle helped me do the passenger one a while back when it tore, he had it on and off in 20 minutes (but he's replaced hundreds, used to be a master subaru/nissan tech).

 

I figure i'll take his help again, but i'll look into the reman'd one.

 

Thanks for the info Bryan!

 

 

Mike

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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  • 5 months later...

I searched ebay and came up with the following vendor, front axle shaft AUP PTNM: 190N as stated previously but it's $69.95 + $19.95 shipping. Just thought that I would add this link / specs just in case someone gets confused about what they need.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-07-Subaru-Legacy-2-5-Turbo-NEW-Front-CV-Axle-Shaft_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5634840236QQitemZ370248254006QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Correct me if I'm referencing the wrong part and I'll update the link. I'll probably go ahead and order one just to have on hand.

 

I've already pulled the front pass shaft one time trying to be proactive about replacing the inner boot before it gets too old (68k miles), but the ignorant parts people at my local Subaru / Ford dealer parts counter gave me the wrong damn parts again. Lesson learned, no more parts bought locally, have to mailorder from now own to get the correct parts before I pull everything off the car (kind of sad really).

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  • 1 month later...
Well guys, I just ordered this part:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370269165321#ht_3067wt_1165

 

And I'll keep ya posted as far as part quality, fitment, etc . . .

 

 

That is the same axle that I have posted above and the same on itsme put on his car. Just a different seller.

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